txhraxy  of  Che  theological  ^emmarjp 


PRINCETON  •  NEW  JERSEY 

BX  5021    .B4  1878 

The  Canterbury  pilgrimage 


THE 


<£ ant cv burn  pilgrimage. 


THE    LAMBETH  CONFERENCE 

AND 

THE   SHEFFIELD  CONGRESS. 


BY 

V 

Rt.  Rev.  G.  T.  BEDELL,  D.D., 


BISHOP  OF  OHIO. 


NEW  YORK: 
ANSON   D.   F.   RANDOLPH   &  COMPANY, 

900  BROADWAY,  COR.  20th  STREET. 


COPYRIGHT,  187S,  BY 

Anson  D.  F.  Randolph  &  Company. 


new  vork : 

EDWARD  O.  JENKINS,  PRINTER,  ROBERT  RUTTER,  BINDER, 

20  North  William  St.  84  Beekman  St. 


INSCRIBED 


ENGLISH  FRIENDS 


THE  COMPANIONS  OF  THE  PILGRIMAGE. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/canterburypilgriOObede 


CONTENTS. 


PACE 

Inscription   iii 

Proheme.   The  Canterbury  Pilgrimage,    .      .  i 

I.  — Voyage,  and  Whit-Sunday  on  Board,  4 

II.  — Oxford  .11 

III.  — Distinguished  Preachers,     ...  19 

IV.  — A  Consecration   23 

V. — The  Venerable  Society,       ...  27 

VI. — Canterbury   35 

VII. — Lambeth  Conference.   First  Sessions,  46 

VIII. — Interval,    .   54 

IX. — Social,   56 

X. — Lambeth  Conference.     Second  Ses- 
sions,   69 

XL— Doings  of  the  Conference,  ...  75 

XII.— Salisbury   83 

XIIL— The  Berlin  Treaty   89 

XIV. — Farnham  Castle  Consultation,  .      .  9^ 

XV. — Bishop  Herzog's  Pastoral,   .      .      .  102 

(v) 


vi  coy  TENTS. 


TAGE 


XVI. — Berne,  and  the  Oberland,   .      .      .  106 

XVII.— GlMMELWALD,  AND  THE  JUNG-FRAU,  .  Ill 
XVIII. — MURREN,  AND  THE  AVALANCHES,    .        .     1 18 

XIX.— Interlaken,  and  the  Lakes,       .  .124 

XX.  — Scotch  Disestablishment.    Is  it  Re- 

lated   to    Disestablishment  in 

England?   131 

XXI.  — Rigi-Kulm,   138 

XXII. — Sunrise  and  Sunset   147 

XXIII.  — Results  of  the  Lambeth  Conference,  154 

XXIV.  — Geneva  and  Mont  Blanc,     .      .  .175 

XXV.— Our  Church  in  Paris  180 

XXVI.— British  Museum  on  Scientific  Scep- 
ticism 185 

XXVII. — Cambridge  University,  ....  194 

XXVIII.— Edinburgh  and  Scotch  Episcopacy,  .  200 

XXIX. — The  Sheffield  Congress,      .      .      .  208 

XXX. — Pilgrimage  Ended   223 

Epilogue,  227 

The  Bishops  at  Lambeth  229 


Chaucer  s  quaint  conceit  becomes 

PROHEME.  ,     .  ,  . 

reality.     1  he  poets  idea  conceived, 

probably,  in  1378,  enters  into  history,  five  centuries 
afterward,  in  this  year  of  our  Lord  1878.  For 
the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury  has  invited  his  Epis- 
copal co-laborers  to  a  pilgrimage ;  to  visit  him  for 
conference  in  his  ancient  See.  A  grand  procession 
of  Bishops  in  communion  with  the  Church  of  En- 
gland is  even  now  in  progress,  coming  from  every 
country  where  the  English  tongue  prevails,  and 
tending  toward  Lambeth  in  the  Diocese  of  Canter- 
bury. 

We  are  invited  first  to  meet  at  Canterbury ;  and 
probably  this  fact  has  suggested  the  device  which 
I  have  chosen  as  the  title  of  my  story. 

But  the  Conference  at  Lambeth  will  be  the  main 

topic  of  these  papers.    Whilst  travelling  to  and 

from  the  Conference,  and  the  Congress  which  is  to 

meet  at  Sheffield  at  a  later  date,  we  shall  visit 

many   scenes ;   a   variety   of  attractions  gather 

around  them.    Still,  the  central  interest  lies  at  the 

Lambeth  Conference.    Many  will  cross  the  ocean 

(i5 


2 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


from  these  United  States  ;  some  will  traverse  both 
lands  and  oceans  to  reach  the  meeting-place.    It  is 
not  too  much  to  hope  that  many  a  prayer  for  us 
will  interpret  Chaucer's  greeting  to  the  pilgrims, 
"  Ye  goon  to  Caunterbury ;  God  ye  specie." 

We  shall  not  start  as  Chaucer's  pilgrims  did, 
from  the  old  "  Tabard  Inn,"  in  Southwark,  which 
he  has  made  immortal,  notwithstanding  that  Time 
has  laid  hands  sorely  on  it.  So  widely  has  the 
Anglo-Saxon  family  distributed  itself  since  his  day, 
and  so  great  is  now  the  lineage  of  the  ancient 
Church  of  England  (older  than  his  day),  that  the 
guests  of  Canterbury  represent  nearly  two  hundred 
Dioceses  ;  and  the  Bishops  are  gathering  from  every 
quarter  of  the  world. 


I  SHALL  tell  the  story  of  that 
THE  BISHOP'S         .     .  T1        ,.      .    .  , 

gathering.    But  dismissing  fur- 
TALE.  . 

ther  recollections  of  Chaucer  the 

poet,  my  tale  will  be  plain  prose.    The  subject  is 

grave.    The  Conference  will  become  part  of  the 

history  of  this  marvellous  Nineteenth  Century ; 

part  of  the  grand  history  of  the  movements  of  the 

Kingdom  of  our  Lord  Christ  ;   part  of  the  steps 


PROHEME.  3 

of  the  progress  of  the  King  of  kirgs,  as  He  goes 
forth  in  these  latter  days,  conquering  and  to  con- 
cifer. 

I  tell  the  story  for  my  friends.  Probably  those 
topics  will  be  prominent  which  seem  to  me  likely 
to  be  of  chief  interest  to  them.  But  the  main 
subject  has  already  awakened  the  attention  of  the 
Church  of  Christ,  and  the  minor  incidents  may 
have  an  attraction  still  more  extended;  for  our  ap- 
pointments take  us  not  only  to  Canterbury,  and 
Lambeth,  and  Sheffield,  but  to  Oxford  and  Cam- 
bridge, to  York  and  Edinburgh,  to  Farnham  Castle 
and  Winchester,  to  Paris  and  Switzerland. 


I. 


THE  VOYAGE. 
•  The  Celtic. 

We  left  New  York  on  one  of  the 

THE  SEA. 

loveliest  days  in  June.  Not  a  cloud 
was  to  be  seen.  Just  enough  breeze  was  stirring 
to  temper  the  sun's  rays.  The  magnificent  bay  of 
New  York  seldom  has  appeared  to  me  so  full  of  at- 
tractive scenery.  The  waters  were  crowded  with 
shipping  and  sailing  craft,  and  I  confess  to  an  ex- 
hilaration at  finding  that  our  steamer  was  overtak- 
ing everything  in  sight,  and  rapidly  leaving  all  other 
vessels  behind.  The  good  ship  Celtic  has  thus  far 
maintained  her  reputation,  for  to-day  at  noon,  if  all 
is  well,  four  days  out  from  Sandy  Hook,  we  shall  be 
more  than  half  way  to  Queenstown.  She  is  a  won- 
derfully steady  ship  ;  a  frequent  remark  has  been, 
"  this  is  like  a  sail  on  the  North  River  ;  "  we  expe- 
rience as  little  as  may  be  of  that  horrible  unsteadi- 
ness in  the  craft  which  led  Horace  (I  think  it  was) 
to  immortalize  his  ocean,  the  Mediterranean,  as 
the  " dissociabile  marc."  Oh  the  contrary,  we 
have  enjoyed  the  most  sociable  companionship. 
(4) 


THE  VOYAGE.  5 

What  an  interesting  caravansera  such  a  ship  be- 
comes, gathering  from  all  quarters  a  company  for  a 
week,  who,  in  the  meanwhile,  being  transferred,  al- 
most without  knowing  it,  from  one  continent  to  the 
other,  shall  then  separate  for  independent  journey- 
ings  to  meet  no  more  until  the  resurrection. 

It  was   a  White  -  Sunday,  in- 
WHIT-SUNDAY     ,      ,         A       ,  . 

deed.      A    glorious  morning 
ON  BOARD.  &  ta 

greeted  us.   As  we  had  reached 

the  Gulf-stream,  the  atmosphere  was  soft  and  mild, 
a  gentle  south  wind  blowing.  By  special  favor  of 
the  captain,  the  ladies'  cabin  was  given  to  us  for 
an  hour  at  9  o'clock,  when  Bishop  Doane  adminis- 
tered the  Lord's  Supper  to  a  small  company.  At 
10.30  o'clock  Bishop  Lyman  read  the  usual  Morn- 
ing Prayer  in  the  main  cabin,  almost  all  the  pas- 
sengers and  many  from  the  steerage  being  present. 
Bishop  Bedell  preached,  of  whom  and  of  his  ser- 
mon I  need  report  nothing,  as  you  know  pretty 
well  what  he  would  be  likely  to  preach  about 
on  such  a  Festival.  In  the  evening  at  8  o'clock, 
by  unusual  favor,  we  enjoyed  a  second  service. 
We  were  on  the  banks  of  Newfoundland,  and, 
as  is  ordinarily  the  case  at  that  point,  we  were 
surrounded  by  dense  fog.  It  is  the  hour  of  great- 
est danger.     The  fog-whistle  began  its  sad,  in- 


6 


THE  CA N TERBUR  V  PILGRIMAGE. 


termittcnt  moan.  The  mournful  warning  sound, 
and  the  sense  of  special  peril,  added  solem- 
nity to  the  hour.  Bishop  Spalding  read  a  short- 
ened form  of  prayer,  and  Bishop  Doane  followed 
with  a  brief,  spirited,  effective  sermon.  He  is  a 
remarkably   ready  extempore 

BISHOP  DOA\TE. 

speaker.  His  sermon  on  the 
"  Gifts  of  God  and  the  ministry  of  gifts  "  was  sug- 
gestive, very  original,  and  equally  instructive.  At 
both  services  the  music  was  hearty  and  strictly 
congregational,  as  English  Church  music  usually  is  ; 
and  altogether,  judging  by  the  warm  expressions 
of  our  fellow-worshippers,  and  our  own  feelings, 
our  Whit-Sunday  Festival  on  board  ship  was  thor- 
oughly enjoyed,  and  was  blessed  by  the  presence 
of  that  Holy  Comforter  whose  gift  to  the  Church 
we  were  commemorating. 

How  delightful  is  this  communion  of  saints,  this 
fellowship  of  hearts  made  kindred  by  common  faith 
in  Jesus  and  common  love  to  those  whom  He 
loves !  And  what  a  privilege  is  this  Common 
Prayer,  which  makes  a  happy  meeting-spot  for  all 
portions  of  the  Anglican  Communion.  Pardon  the 
word.  I  can  not  find  a  better.  Americans,  En- 
glish, Canadians,  West  Indians,  Australians  —  it 
seemed  at  once  to  open  the  door  for  us  into  a  spir- 


THE  VOYAGE. 


7 


itual  home,  and  some  who  had  never  heard  our 
Common  Prayer  before  were  led  to  a  very  out- 
spoken admiration  of  its  beauty  and  solemnity. 

Liverpool, 

Our  brethren  at  Liverpool  had  shown  their 
hospitality  by  facilitating  our  passing  through  the 
Custom-house,  so  that  we  were  not  delayed  five 
minutes  after  the  landing  of  baggage,  etc.,  was  ef- 
fected. This  was  a  peculiar  kindness,  and  very 
grateful.  They  had  come  out  in  a  tug  on  Satur- 
day night  to  intercept  the  steamer,  but  failed  on 
account  of  the  fog ;  but  they  watched  for  us,  and 
waited  until  nearly  midnight,  prepared  to  take  us 
at  once  to  their  homes. 

By  the  hour  of  morning  service,  we  were  ready 
for  worship  ;  our  hearts  full  of  gratitude  to  God  for 


freshing  service  and  sermon.  This  was  ivorsliip ; 
no  shows,  no  novelties,  no  proxy  praying  or  proxy 
singing ;  but  earnest,  devout  common  prayer  and 
praise,  led  by  clergymen  who  knew  how  to  read, 
and  a  strong  choir  who  knew  (and  practiced  what 
they  knew)  that  the  goodness  of  a  choir  consists  in 


SUN  J)  A  Y. 


TRINITY 


His  special  mercies.  We  attended 
St.  Andrew's,  close  by  the  hotel  (Adel- 
phi),  where  we  enjoyed  a  spiritually  re- 


8 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


their  leading  the  music,  not  in  their  performing  it. 
We  had  chants  that  every  one  could  sing,  and  chorals 
that  every  one  did  sing ;  and  we  had  responses  that 
could  be  heard,  and  every  worshipper  seemed  to  be 
absorbed  in  worship.  It  was  grand  ;  the  Litany 
was  said  as  we  say  it  in  Ohio.  The  sermon,  by 
the  rector,  Rev.  Mr.  Lefroy,  was  a  warm-hearted 
exposition  of  the  doctrine  of  the  Trinity,  followed 
by  an  appeal  for  charity  for  the  sufferers  by  the 
late  explosion  in  the  collieries.    Mr.  Lefroy  is  a 


and  the  influence  of  the  pure  Gospel  which  he 
preaches,  are  shown  by  the  crowding  of  his  church 
with  a  devout  and  interested  congregation.  De- 
pend upon  it,  the  Gospel  has  not  lost  its  power. 
Not  Liberalism  —  indefinite,  uncertain,  indeter- 
minate, religious  and  ecclesiastical  know-nothing- 
ism  ;  and  not  Ritualism,  but  Righteousness — the 
Righteousness  in  Christ  and  through  Christ — that 
is  it,  which  is  the  power  of  the  pulpit. 

By  one  thing  we  were  specially  struck  —  the 
total  silence  of  this  crowded  congregation  which 
followed  the  benediction,  and  continued  until  they 
had  left  the  House  of  God.    I  did  not  hear  a  word 


REV.  MR. 


LEFRO  Y. 


clear  thinker,  and  a  sympathizing 
preacher.  His  voice  is  musical,  and 
his  manner  glowing.     His  influence, 


THE  VOYAGE. 


9 


spoken  in  the  aisles  ;  and  then  each  one  went  his 

way  from  the  church-yard  with  quiet  reverence. 

Could  it  not  be  imitated  among  us  profitably  ? 

On  Monday  we  were  present 
CONFIRMATION.  .       '  , 

at  a  confirmation,  by  the  Bishop 

of  Chester,  in  whose  Diocese  Liverpool  lies.  Eight 
or  more  parishes  were  represented  on  this  occa- 
sion, each  Rector  bringing  his  class.    The  candi- 


"  children  "  in  a  very  affectionate  and  impressive 
manner.  They  listened  with  deep  attention,  and 
were  then  allowed  to  depart  with  the  Bishop's 
benediction.  It  was  a  solemn  service  ;  somewhat 
tedious,  however,  although  the  Bishop  laid  hands 
on  two  at  each  time  of  repeating  the  prayer.  The 
service  of  confirmation  was  the  only  one  used. 

I  learned  that  none  of  the  candidates  were  under 
fifteen  years  of  age,  and  I  am  sure  that  many  were 
twenty  or  twenty-five  years  old.  Judging  from 
this  confirmation,  our  impression  is  happily  incor- 
rect, that  English  children  are  brought  to  this 
holy  ordinance  at  an  immature  age. 


OF  CHESTER. 


BISHOP 


dates  numbered  157  girls,  86  boys; 
in  all  243.  The  aged  Bishop,  after 
the   confirmation,    addressed  his 


REV.  MR.  LOMAS, 


One  of  the  Pastors  of  the  dis- 
trict invited  us  to  go  with  him 


1* 


ID 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


to  this  service.  Arriving  at  his  house  we  found 
the  whole  class  gathered  in  his  study.  The  good 
Rector  gave  his  final,  earnest,  and  faithful  counsels. 
After  that,  his  Curate  prayed  with  them  and  for 
them  (extempore),  his  voice  being  at  times  choked 
with  emotion.  I  gave  them  the  Blessing ;  and 
then  we  proceeded  to  St.  Cuthbert's  Church,  about 
a  mile  off. 

What  a  happy  practice ;  this  gathering  of  the 
candidates  at  the  Parsonage,  just  previous  to  the 
Confirmation  service.  It  tends  to  establish,  to  the 
last  moment,  their  sense  of  separation  from  the 
world,  and  their  feeling  of  unity,  as  a  little  flock, 
around  their  Pastor.  It  furnishes,  too,  an  opportu- 
nity for  him  to  impress  their  minds  solemnly  at  the 
very  moment  when  they  are  approaching  the  crisis 
of  their  public  self-dedication  to  God. 


II. 


OXFORD. 

On  the  way  to  Canterbury,  the  pilgrims  in  Chau- 
cer's day  had  time  to  tell  many  a  pleasant  tale. 
"  Merrie  "  they  were  too,  although  their  pilgrim- 
age was  to  terminate  at  Thomas  a.  Becket's  Tomb. 
Judged  by  the  movement  of  their  "  rime,"  they 
did  not  waste  many  tears  over  the  saint  and  mar- 
tyr. You  may  think  that  we,  too,  were  a  long 
while  in  arriving  at  Canterbury,  seeing  that  our 
first  appointment  called  us  there.  But  when  we 
reached  England,  it  was  found  that  advantage  had 
been  taken  of  the  interval  before  the  29th  of  June 
to  interpose  some  other  visits ;  and  it  will  be  quite 
in  keeping,  that  I  should  tell  you  of  them,  before 
going  on  to  the  story  of  our  pilgrimage  to  ancient 
Kent. 

Nothing  could  have  been  more  at- 
A  VISIT  TO  .  „.  , 

tractive  to  the  Bishops  from  the 

United  States,  than  an  invitation 
to  the  seat  of  the  University  of  Oxford  ;  nor  could 
any  welcome  have  been  more  hearty  than  that 

(11) 


12 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


which  they  received.  Many  of  the  Colonial  Bishops 
returned  to  Oxford  as  to  a  home ;  and  some  (the 
Bishop  of  Cape  Town,  and  Metropolitan,  for  ex- 
ample) actually  returned  home,  for  as  a  Fellow  of 
St.  John's  College  he  had  a  right  still  to  the  rooms 
of  his  fellowship.  They  evidently  enjoyed  it  fully. 
And  we  strangers  were  made  part  of  the  circle  of 
Church  University  life  as  kindly  as  possible,  and 
with  the  utmost  cordiality.  On  Tuesday  the 
Bishops  arrived,  and  left  on  Friday ;  and  you  shall 
judge  of  the  hospitality  of  our  University  friends. 
On  Tuesday  was  the  Commencement  (as  we  call  it) 
of  the  Cuddesdon  Theological  School.  The  Bishop 

of  Oxford  entertained  the  Bish- 
HOSPITALITY.  ,  .  ,  ,  .  , 

ops  at  his   palace,  which  is  at 

Cuddesdon.  Tuesday  afternoon  and  evening  in- 
cluded a  dinner  at  the  Warden's,  Keble  College  ; 
and  an  evening  party  at  the  Rector's,  Exeter 
College.  On  Wednesday,  was  a  luncheon  in  the 
Common's  Hall  of  Keble,  and  a  dinner  with  the 
Archdeacon  of  the  Diocese  ;  besides  the  two  mis- 
sionary meetings,  one  at  2  p.m.  and  one  at  7.30. 
On  Thursday,  a  breakfast  was  given  at  St.  John's 
College,  by  the  Bishop  of  Cape  Town  ;  a  luncheon 
at  Merton  College,  by  the  Rural  Dean,  and  a  gar- 


OXFORD.  1 3 

den-tea  by  the  celebrated  Professor  Max  Mailer. 

To  all,  the  ladies  accompanying  the  Bishops  were 

invited.    In  the  intervals  we  were  busy  in  visiting 

the  majestic  parks  of  New  College  (centuries  old)  ; 

and  St.  John's;  the  restored  reredos  of  All  Souls; 

the  tomb  of  Patterson,  a  martyr  indeed,  and  a 

saint  without  a  decree  from  Rome  ;  the  chapel  of 

Exeter  (very  like  Sainte  Chapelle  of  Paris) ;  the 

chapel  and  halls  of  Keble  ;  Bodleian  Library  ;  and, 

remembering  Kenyon,  and  what  would  be  expected 

of  me  by  Kenyon  under-graduates,  a  visit  to  the 

cricket-ground,  and  the  sight  of  a  match  ;  and  also 

a  visit  to  the  Isis,  and  the  boats. 

The  English  national  game  is  manly 
CRICKET.         ,7.  ^  ;  ,, 

and  exciting.    Great  skill  is  shown  in 

the  bowling,  which  requires  the  ball  to  be  thrown 
very  swiftly,  and  to  strike  the  ground  a  short  dis- 
tance in  front  of  the  batters,  so  as  to  rise  and  hit 
the  wicket.  Equal  skill  must  be  shown  by  the  bat- 
ter, to  follow  the  rapid  motion  of  the  ball,  inter- 
cept it,  and  give  it  a  blow  which  will  enable  him  to 
make  runs.  I  saw  a  good  batter  who  made  thirty- 
six  runs ;  one  of  his  companions  was  put  out  at 
seven.  The  ball  is  intolerably  hard,  and  a  blow 
from    it    is   dangerous ;    so   that   gauntlets  and 


I4  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

leather  leggings  are  used,  which  seem  to  me 
very  clumsy. 

I  should  certainly  give  the  preference  to  our  own 
national  game  of  base-ball.  Ours  requires  equal 
skill  ;  the  skill  is  more  equally  divided  between  all 
parts  of  the  field,  and  the  play  is  incomparably 
more  graceful. 

I  fear  we  can  not  rival  Oxford  in 

BOA  TIXG. 

boating;  for  as  one  of  the  Oxford 
men  said  to  me,  when  I  showed  him  the  photo- 
graph of  our  lovely  Kokosing — pointing  to  a  cow 
whose  feet  are  scarcely  covered  by  the  water — "  the 
stream  seems  to  be  shallow."  It  was  useless  to  tell 
him  that  the  cow  had  inconsiderately  chosen  a 
sand-bank,  and  to  direct  his  eye  to  the  boat  float- 
ing lazily  on  the  water  just  beyond.  I  turned  the 
subject  to  our  buildings.  And  by  the  way,  it  is 
fair  to  say,  that  the  collection  of  photographs  of 
Gambier,  which  I  carried  to  Keble,  and  left  there, 
excited  very  deep  interest.  No  wonder;  for  even 
in  Oxford  it  w  as  asked  of  us :  "  Are  the  people  in 
Ohio  chiefly  black?" — meaning  Indians;  and, 
"  How  do  you  get  about  in  Ohio  ?  Have  you 
roads?    Of  course  you  have  no  railroads  ?  " 

A  queer  story  was  told  me  by  one  of  our  Bish- 
ops, who  overheard  a  lady — not  in  Oxford — speak- 


OXFORD.  1 5 

ing  quite  enthusiastically  of  a  sermon  she  had 
listened  to.  "  It  was  by  an  American,"  she  said  ; 
"  and,  do  you  know — he  was  white  !  " 

Of  course,  these  questions  were  not  asked  by 
students  or  professors.  Indeed,  I  found  two  very 
clever  fellows  from  Boston  at  Keble  College — 
Parker  and  Burnett — who  have  high  standing. 
They  did  us  many  favors.  And  they,  and  others 
from  our  country,  have  proved  that  America  (as 
our  country  is  called)  is  not  all  a  savagery.  Fri- 
day morning  was  devoted  to  Magdalen  College 
and  its  deer  park,  and  Addison's  walk,  and  the 
sv/eet  music  in  the  College  Church  at  Morning 
Prayer.  Magdalen  College  is  called  Maudelin, 
which  curious  transfer  of  sounds  will  suggest  the 
original  meaning  of  the  epithet,  maudlin. 

So  these  were  busy  days  at  Oxford. 

Taking  advantage  of  the  op 
THE  UNIVERSITY.  T    -  ,  , 

portunity,  I    have  learned 

many  things  concerning  the  relations  of  the  Col- 
leges to  the  University,  which  will  be  of  service  in 
our  effort  to  establish  a  Church  University  for  the 
Central  Dioceses,  of  which  old  Kenyon  will  be  the 
nucleus.  But  you  will  regret  to  learn  that  late 
legislation  has  more  than  threatened  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  Church  character  of  this  University. 


i6 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


Already  the  Fellowships  are  thrown  open  to  any- 
body— "  Jews,  Turks,  Infidels,  and  Heretics  " — 
without  religious  tests.  And  now  a  greater  danger 
threatens  lest  the  Headships  of  Colleges  should 
also  be  thrown  open  to  every  one,  without  distinc- 
tion of  ecclesiastical  kinship  to  the  Church  of 
England.  If  so,  we  who  love  and  revere  that 
Church  as  the  bulwark  of  Protestantism,  may  well 
cry,  "  Woe  worth  the  day !  " 

I  regret  to  find  that  scholarship 

SCHOLARSHIP.  . 

is  not  thought  to  be  improving 
in  Oxford ;  but  that  under  the  modern  system, 
under  the  introduction  of  physical  science,  but 
especially  under  the  muscular  system,  and  the  ex- 
penses attendant  on  it,  and  the  dissipation  which 
follows  it,  more  students  study  less,  and  many  at- 
tain a  less  high  degree  than  was  formerly  the  rule. 
The  best  students  feel  it,  and  regret  it  as  much  as 
do  their  teachers.  A  man's  score  at  cricket,  and 
his  skill  at  the  oar,  is  more  thought  about  by  the 
crowd  of  students,  than  his  standing  among  the 
intellectual  athletes.  It  is  fairly  to  be  hoped  that 
the  influence  of  Keble  College  will  be  felt,  in  pro- 
ducing a  wholesome  reaction.  Its  Warden  seems 
to  be  a  man  of  nerve  and  decision,  and  positive 
views  as  to  the  pre-eminence  both  of  real  study  and 


OXFORD. 


17 


religion.  Many  another  influential  man  is  working 
in  the  same  direction,  as,  for  example,  the  venerated 
Dr.  Lightfoot,  Rector  of  Exeter.  May  God  grant 
them  full  success  ;  for  if  the  Universities  of  En- 
gland fail  the  Church,  there  will  not  be  much  of 
the  present  system  worth  the  saving. 

A  redeeming  point  is  that,  according 
RELIGION.  , 

to  the  testimony  of  one  who  ought 

to  know,  true  religion  is  reviving  at  Oxford,  and  by 
the  most  natural  of  causes.  Whilst  tests  continued, 
there  was  a  temptation  to  hypocrisy.  The  profes- 
sion of  Christianity  seemed  to  many  more  neces- 
sary than  its  reality.  Now,  scepticism  utters  itself, 
and  equally  a  genuine  religion  and  devout  faith 
puts  itself  in  open  antagonism.  Religious  men 
are  known  as  such,  and,  with  that  genuineness  so 
characteristic  of  Englishmen,  they  are  not  afraid 
to  be  known.  They  speak  out  their  convictions, 
as  well  as  act  them  out.  Consequently,  religion  is 
becoming  defined,  and  is  holding  its  place.  One 
significant  indication  is,  that  weekly  Communions 
are  now  largely  attended  by  under-graduates, 
whereas  three  Communions  in  the  year  were  here- 
tofore the  average.  " 

Other  causes,  not  so  satisfactory,  may  be  com- 
bined in  producing  this  result ;  but  one  can  not 


18 


THE  CA  N  TERD  UR  Y  P1L  G  RIM  A  GE. 


feel  otherwise  than  thankful,  whatever  may  have 

led  to  it,  that  a  manly  acknowledgment  of  Christ 

is  becoming  a  noted  feature  in  Oxford. 

Keble  College  has  a  magnificent  pile  of 
KEBLE.   ,  &  ,  *  1 

buildings,  in  the  new  style,  ornamented 

tile-work.  The  principal  hall  was  built  by  a  friend 
of  the  poet ;  the  father  of  this  donor  having  built 
the  Chapel.  The  Chapel  is  supposed  to  have  cost 
about  $150,000  ;  no  one  knows  how  much,  except 
the  donor.  It  is  crowded  with  superb  mosaics,  and 
rich  stained  glass,  and  polished  marbles.  In  the 
halls,  the  students  each  have  a  sitting-room,  and  a 
small  bedroom  attached.  They  dine  in  commons. 
This  plan  diminishes  the  expense  greatly.  The 
cost  of  education  at  Keble  is  not  more  than  the 
ordinary  cost  at  Harvard.  But  when  I  told  them 
the  small  cost  of  good  college  education  in  Gam- 
bier,  I  was  supposed  to  be  dealing  with  the  fabu- 
lous. 


III. 


DISTINGUISHED  PREACHERS. 

London. 

THE  Temple  Church  attracted  us,  both  by  its  as- 
sociations, its  renowned  choir,  and  the  reputation 
of  its  eloquent  Master,  the  Rev.  Dr.  Vaughan. 

His   sermon  was  on  the 

A'EV.  DR.  VAUGHAN. 

topic  :  "  The  Natural  ver- 
sus Miraculous  Laws."  He  treated  it  in  a  very 
practical  manner,  not  at  all  argumentative,  taking 
as  an  illustration,  the  corn  of  heaven  no  longer 
necessary  after  Israel  could  obtain  the  corn  of 
Canaan  ;  miracles  not  needed  when  natural  laws 
are  sufficient. 

His  style  is  simple,  easy,  and  chaste  ;  his  manner 
that  usual  with  English  clergymen  ;  his  voice  clear, 
firm,  and  penetrating.  The  church  was  crowded, 
both  the  outer  and  the  inner  temple  being  full ; 
and  the  audience,  apparently  of  the  highest  classes, 
was  very  attentive  and  devout. 

In  the  afternoon  Canon  Lcathes  was  to  preach 

(19) 


20 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


in  Westminster  Abbey.    We  obtained  stalls  next 

to  the  venerable  Arch- 

REV.  CANON  LEA  THE S. 

bishop  of  Armagh,  and 
soon  after  every  seat  was  filled  in  choir  and  tran- 
sept. Mr.  Leathes'  sermon  was  on  the  text :  "  If 
they  hear  not  Moses  and  the  prophets,  neither  will 
they  be  persuaded,"  etc.,  laying  stress  on  persua- 
sion to  action,  in  distinction  from  belief.  His  line 
of  thought  presented  the  idea  that  men  can  not 
reasonably  refuse  to  repent,  because  the  voice  of 
God  is  sounding  in  their  consciences,  both  from  the 
law  of  Moses  (the  law  written  in  all  hearts — the 
Ten  Commandments),  and  from  the  testimony  of 
prophecy.  Although  his  voice  was  good,  and  his 
enunciation  fair,  yet  the  difficulty  of  hearing  in 
the  Abbey  prevented  our  obtaining  any  very  clearly 
connected  line  of  thought.  Both  these  sermons 
bore  upon  the  Gospel  message  incideetally. 

In  the  evening  we  attended  a 
WESTMINSTER  .  ,  .      ,  .  . 

special  service  in  the  nave  of  the 
ABBEY.  r 

Abbey.  The  precentor,  Rev. 
Mr.  Jones,  and  a  choir  of  some  fifty  boys  and  men, 
led  the  devotions,  and  the  Dean  (Stanley)  read  the 
lessons.  How  can  I  convey  to  you  an  idea  of  the 
grandeur  of  this  occasion  ?  And  yet  it  occurs  con- 
stantly during  certain  months  pf  the  year.  The 


DIS  T/y  G  U I  SUED  PREA  CHERS. 


21 


nave  of  the  Abbey  is  thrown  open  to  every  one ; 
and  such  a  crowd — at  least  5,000 — orderly,  rever- 
ent, responding,  and  singing  as  with  one  voice  in 
many  responsive  portions,  and  in  the  evening 
hymn  :  "  Glory  to  Thee,  my  God,  this  night."  The 
twilight,  scarcely  fading,  between  7  and  8  o'clock, 
still  lighted  the  long  aisles  and  the  dizzy  height  of 
the  interlaced  arches  of  the  ceiling.  Not  a  few 
clustered  standards  of  gas  jets  threw  a  red  coloring 
amongst  the  gray  light.  Distance  and  majesty 
were  wonderfully  increased  by  these  atmospheric 
effects,  and  the  temple  abyss  was  made  grander  by 
the  spell  of  mysterious  shadows.  And  then  when 
this  choir  and  the  almost  perfect  organ  burst  out 
in  Mozart's  magnificent  Anthem  "  I  will  give 
thanks  unto  Thee,  O  Lord,  among  the  people,"  the 
emotions  stirred  are  not  to  be  described.  If  the 
hearts  of  this,  great  throng  were  not  lifted  toward 
God,  at  least  something  very  like  devotion  was 
kindled,  and  many  must  have  been  rendered  sus- 
ceptible to  the  appeal  of  the  Gospel. 

The  Hon.  Canon  of  Peter- 
REV.  DAVID  ,  ,  ,     ,  TT. 

JAMES  VAUGHAN.   borough  preached.  His  topic 
was  the  contrast  and  recon- 
ciliation of  the  two  sayings  of  Christ:  "  He  that  is 
not  with  me  is  against  me ; "  "  He  that  is  not 


22 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


against  us  is  on  our  part."  The  reconciliation 
is  not  very  difficult  ;  but  it  was  not  made  more 
easy  by  an  effort  to  show  that  the  second  phrase 
related  to  the  Church,  rather  than,  like  the  first,  to 
Christ  alone.  Very  profitable  thoughts  were  sug- 
gested by  the  first  text,  especially  that  the  loss  of 
one's  opportunity  to  do  good  is,  in  the  sight  of 
Christ,  a  doing  of  harm.  The  lessons  from  the 
second  text  were  not  a  trifle  broad  :  for  example, 
that  we  were  not  to  forbid  "  Unitarian,  Quaker,  or 
Roman  Catholic  teaching,  because  we  had  learned 
much  good  from  them."  The  sermon  was  mark- 
ed by  simplicity,  could  be  easily  understood,  and 
was  well  delivered  in  a  clear,  round  voice.  Mr. 
Vaughan  has  evidently  a  high  place  among  the 
preachers  of  the  Broad  Church  school. 

In  Savoy  Chapel  (one  of  the  Royal  Chapels)  the 
Rev.  James  Moore  preached  on  Suaday  evening. 
Bishop  Lyman  regarded  the  sermon  as  of  the  high- 
est order.  Any  of  my  students  in  Pastoral  The- 
ology will  recognize  Mr.  Moore  as  the  author  of 
"  Hints  on  Preaching,"  whose  book  I  have  often  rec- 
ommended to  them  as  invaluable. 


IV. 


A  CONSECRATION. 

Sf.  Paul's  Cathedral,  London. 

ALL  the  Bishops  from  the  United  States,  who 
were  known  to  be  in  London,  were  invited  to  assist 
at  the  Consecration  of  the  Bishops  of  Lichfield, 
Nassau,  and  North  Queensland,  on  St.  John  Bap- 
tist's Day. 

The  Bishops  of  Ohio,  Pennsylvania,  and  North 
Carolina  shared  in  this  sacred  ceremonial.  The  serv- 
ice was  grander  than  that  to  which  we  are  accustom- 
ed ;  for  all  the  formalities  of  a  State  Church  are  em- 
ployed. The  Archbishop  was  present,  and  presided 
— the  centre  of  a  deep  and  real  sympathy.  For  the 
hand  of  the  Lord  has  touched  him  in  the  death  of 
his  son,  an  only  son,  a  young  man  of  great  promise 
and  equal  modesty.    He  won  all  hearts  at  Boston, 

REV  MR  tait.  wiiere  he  aPPeared  >n  the  House 
of  Bishops,  bearing  a  message 
from  his  father.  Alas!  he  returned  to  England 
only  to  suffer  from  protracted  disease,  and  to  die, 
just  as  a  very  bright  career  was  opening  on  him. 
Our  sympathy  pervaded  the  hours  of  the  Consecra- 

(23) 


24  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

tion  ;  for  it  was  not  possible  to  look  on  the  grave 
features  of  the  Archbishop,  or  to  listen  to  the  sad- 
dened tones  of  his  voice,  without  being  conscious 
that  a  great  sorrow  was  seated  in  his  heart.  The 
cathedral  was  crowded  in  every  part.  In  the  choir 
chancel  were  the  Archbishop  and  twenty  Bishops 
from  various  lands,  with  attending  clergy.  I  should 
suppose  that  at  least  6,000  people  were  present. 
The  choir  of  the  cathedral  was  in  full  force,  and 
sang  majestically.  When  I  write  that  they  sang 
Mendelssohn's  "  How  lovely  are  the  Messengers," 
and  Stainer's  "  How  beautiful  upon  the  Moun- 
tains," besides  the  full  choral  service  of  commun- 
ion, with  a  glorious  Sanctus,  and  Gloria  in  Excelsis, 
you  will  wish  that  you  could  have  heard  this  per- 
fection of  church  music,  devotional  and  soul-stirring. 

Since    Bishop    Mcllvaine  was 
WILKINSON.  , 

taken  irom  us,  1  have  heard  no 

such  sermon  as  this.  It  was  distinguished  by  pow- 
er of  Scriptural  exposition,  grandeur  of  thought, 
and  boldness  and  courage  in  speaking  truth,  even 
if  unwelcome.  It  arraigned  the  Church  of  En- 
gland for  worldliness,  for  compromising  with  error, 
for  want  of  consciousness  that  it  was  part  of  the 
kingdom  of  Christ,  a  kingdom  present,  warring  and 
sure  to  conquer.    The  preacher  was  the  Rev.  G.  A. 


A  COXSECRATION. 


25 


Wilkinson,  vicar  of  St.  Peter's,  Eaton  Square, 
London.    His  text  was  Ezek.  xvi.  60. 

He  traced  the  history  of  the  Church  of  England 
briefly,  v.  3,  "  Thy  birth  and  thy  nativity  is  of  the 
land  of  Canaan  ;  thy  father  was  an  Amorite,  and  thy 
mother  a  Hittite.  No  eye  pitied  thee.  But  when  I 
passed  by,  I  said  unto  thee,  Live" — a  Church  provi- 
dentially raised  up,  and  yet,  although  strengthened 
and  adorned  (see  verses  10-14)  by  Jehovah,  so 
that  "  thy  renown  went  forth  among  the  heathen 
for  thy  beauty,"  this  Church  had  quailed  before 
her  enemies.  He  pleaded  for  the  exercise  of  au- 
thority, for  the  enforcement  of  obedience,  for  the 
ceasing  of  all  efforts  to  shirk  difficult  questions,  for 
repentance  and  a  revived  consciousness  of  the 
power  of  Christ  in  His  visible  kingdom.  It  lifted 
one's  soul.  It  carried  one  away  from  the  dangers 
that  surround  the  Church  of  England.  In  the  en- 
thusiasm of  his  trust  in  Christ  and  the  kingdom  of 
the  Lord,  one  was  compelled  to  feel  the  Rock  be- 
neath us,  against  which  no  floods  beat,  except  to 
be  dashed  in  pieces  by  the  very  violence  of  their 
onsurging. 

The  offertory  was  made  for  the  new  Diocese 
which  is  to  be  cut  out  of  the  present  Diocese  of 
Lichfield,  and  is  to  help  in  the  care  of  that  district 


26 


THE  CA  N  TERR  UR  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 


crowded  by  operatives.  The  offerings  were  presented 
by  about  fifty  collectors,  who  brought  up  their  lit- 
tle scarlet  bags,  and  laid  them  on  the  alms  basin. 
Such  was  the  weight  that  it  required  three  persons 
to  hold  the  great  gold  basin  with  its  treasures,  and 
replace  it  on  the  Holy  Table ! 

During  the  act  of  consecration 

CONSECRATION. 

all  the  Bishops  stood  round  the 
candidates  and  the  Archbishop,  who  was  seated  in 
his  chair  in  front  of  the  Holy  Table,  whilst  the 
Vcni  Creator  Spiritus  was  being  sung  by  the  choir; 
and  all  laid  their  hands  on  the  newly  elected. 

There  seemed  to  be  no  thought  of  restricting 
the  communion.  Eight  Bishops  at  a  time  served 
the  crowd  ;  and  as  far  as  I  could  estimate,  at  least 
1,000  persons  communed.  The  service,  commenc- 
ing with  the  ante-communion,  continued  four  and 
a  half  hours. 


V. 


THE  VENERABLE  SOCIETY. 

London, 

The  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel 
in  Foreign  Parts  made  good  use  of  the  presence 
of  our  Bishops.  More  than  one  hundred  and 
seventy-five  years  ago  that  Society,  the  parent 
of  all  Protestant  missionary  societies,  was  found- 
ed for  the  purpose  of  furthering  the  Gospel, 
and  fostering  the  Church  in  the  Colonies  of 
America.  How  well  those  foundations  were  laid, 
none  could  better  testify  than  the  Bishops  of  the 
Church  which  has  been  builded  on  them.  The 
Venerable  Society  counted  on  our  advocacy,  and 
had  a  right  to  take  advantage  of  it ;  nor  did  it 
reckon  in  vain.  All  of  our  Bishops  were  engaged, 
and  willingly,  in  this  good  cause.  Every  reason- 
able opportunity  was  seized  by  the  indefatigable 
secretaries ;  Rev.  Mr.  Bullock  being  foremost. 
Nor  did  our  labors  cease  from  June  until  Octo- 
ber, until  the  last  of  the  visitors  had  bidden  fare- 
well to  England. 

(27) 


28 


'I  HE  CA  NTERB  UR  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 


Our  introduction  to  an  English  au- 
THE  S.  P.  G.  to 

dience  was  at  Oxford,  in  a  meeting 

arranged  in  the  interests  of  this  Society.  It  was 
held  in  the  hall  of  the  University,  called  the  Shel- 
donian  Theatre,  where  Degrees  are  conferred  by 
that  distinguished  Faculty.  The  Bishop  of  Oxford 
presided.  In  a  few,  warm-hearted  words,  he  greet- 
ed his  transatlantic  brethren.  It  fell  to  my  lot,  as 
the  oldest  of  our  Bishops  present,  to  respond  :  and 


ditional  reasons  for  Churchmen  throughout  the 
world  to  draw  more  closely  the  bonds  of  unity 
among  themselves."  In  the  course  of  my  remarks, 
I  said,  naturally,  that  I  regarded  the  Church  of 
England  as  the  bulwark  not  only  of  Protest- 
antism, but  in  this  age  as  the  bulwark  of  Chris- 
tianity. And  then,  quite  innocently  (for  I  did 
not  at  that  time  know  how  serious  had  been  the 
changes  wrought  by  the  University  Bill),  I  added, 
"  believing  in  my  heart  that  here  in  Oxford,  and  in 
Cambridge,  is  the  fountain  of  the  Truth,  which  is  to 
be  accepted  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  I  pray,  above 
all,  that  God  will  keep  these  Universities  pure  and 
steadfast  in  the  faith  as  it  is  in  Christ  Jesus,  and 


THE  OXFORD 


MEETINGS. 


also  to  speak  on  the  following  reso- 
lution: "  That  the  multiplication 
of  religious  divisions  furnishes  ad- 


THE  VENERABLE  SOCIETY. 


that  they  may  be  forever  a  fountain  of  living  water, 
watering  the  whole  face  of  the  earth." 

The  peculiarly  loud  cheers  that  followed  this 
sentiment,  whilst  indicating  a  general  acquiescence, 
showed  also  that  I  had  touched  a  vexed  question. 
At  the  close  of  the  meeting,  the  Bishop  of  Oxford 
delicately  alluded  to  the  subject,  and  opened  our 
eyes  (in  the  case  of  some  of  us,  for  the  first  time,)  to 
the  imminent  danger,  that  these  Universities  will 
be  divorced  from  the  Church  of  England,  and  from 
the  guardianship  of  that  Truth  for  the  sake  of  which 
they  were  founded  and  endowed.  Bishop  Lyman, 
of  North  Carolina,  ably  seconded  the  resolution. 

Subsequently,  Bishop  Perry,  of  Iowa,  spoke  on 
a  kindred  topic.  In  the  evening,  a  meeting  was 
held  in  the  Town  Hall,  at  which  Bishop  Stevens, 
of  Pennsylvania  spoke. 

On  the  27th,  at  London,  the  formal  reception  of 
the  Bishops  from  the  United  States,  and  from  the 
Colonies,  occurred,  under  the  auspices  of  the  Ven- 
erable Society.  It  was  inaugurated  by  a  solemn 
service  in  St.  Paul's,  at  which  the  Lord  Bishop  of 
Ripon  preached.    We  know  him  best  as  Bicker- 


THE  LORD  BISHOP 
OF  RIPON. 


steth  ;  the  worthy  represen- 
tative of  that  honored  name. 
It  was  a  treat  to  hear  the 


3o  THE  CA  N  TERB  UR  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 

Gospel  so  thoroughly  set  forth.  It  is  rather  rare. 
With  admirable  distinctness  and  discrimination,  he 
gave  an  outline  of  the  whole  scheme  of  Evangeli- 
cal truth,  as  the  only  ground  for  missionary  work, 
and  the  basis  of  all  real  hopes  for  its  success. 

In  the  evening,  at  the  Westminster  Hotel,  a  meet- 
ing was  held  under  the  Presi- 
CONVERSAZIONE.     ,  r  , 

dency  of  the  Lord  Bishop  of 

Carlisle,  at  which  each  of  our  American  Bishops 
was  introduced,  and  each  gave  a  brief  account  of 
his  Diocese. 

Of  course,  I  took  the  opportunity  to  speak  of 
Ohio's  indebtedness  to  English  liberality  for  the 
foundation  of  Kenyon  College  and  Bexley  Hall, 
under  the  advocacy  of  Bishop  Chase  and  Bishop 
Mcllvaine.  I  take  to  myself  some  credit  for  self- 
restraint,  that  notwithstanding  the  aptness  of  the 
occasion,  no  allusion  was  made  to  the  desirableness 
of  a  continuation  of  English  gifts  to  consolidate 
and  complete  what  they  had  so  well  begun.  Many 
earnest  words  were  spoken  by  our  Bishops;  and 
some  playful  remarks  lightened  the  hour.  Among 
other  amusing  incidents,  it  was  stated  by  the 
Bishop  of  Colorado,  that  the  Colorado  bug,  of 
which  the  English  have  such  a  genuine  horror,  was 
not  at  all  a  native  of  his  Diocese  ;  and  that  the 


THE  VENERABLE  SOCIETY.  3I 

specimens  shown  at  Oxford  had  come — one  from 
North  Carolina;  one  from  Missouri,  and  the  others 
from  New  Mexico  or  South  America  ;  none  nearer 
than  a  1,000  miles  to  Colorado. 

At  the  close  of  the  evening,  our  American  Min- 
ister, Mr.  John  Welsh,  was  called  upon  by  the 
Chairman,  in  very  complimentary  terms,  and  re- 
sponded most  happily.  The  hearty  reception  given 
him  proved  how  thoroughly  he  had  already  won 
public  confidence  and  respect. 

Friday,  the  28th,  was  devoted 
THE  LONDON  ...  .         ,         .  „ 

to  public  meetings  held  m  St. 
MEETINGS.  1  & 

James'  Hall.  At  these  meetings 
the  Colonial  Bishops  presented  the  condition  and 
claims  of  their  several  fields.  One  who  listened  to 
these  stories  of  mingled  success  and  trial,  had  every 
emotion  of  his  heart  stirred  ;  joy  and  thankfulness, 
sympathy  and  grief  followed  each  other  in  quick 
succession  ;  but  over  them  all,  the  result  of  sober 
review  and  comparison,  faith  and  hope  prevailed. 

At  the  morning  meeting.  Bishop  Schereschewsky, 
of  our  Mission  in  China,  gave  a  vivid  picture  of  the 
work  accomplished  there.  Some  English  Church- 
men were  evidently  astonished  to  learn  that  our 
labors  had  preceded  that  of  the  Church  of  En- 
gland ;  and  that,  according  to  ancient  precedents, 


3  2  THE  CANTER  B  UR  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 

an  English  Bishop  officiating  to 

A  BISHOP  IN        ..  .    c,        -    .         ,  , 

native  converts  in  Shanghai,  could 

SHANGHAI. 

not  regard  himself  otherwise  than 
as  intruding  on  a  Missionary  Diocese  already  sup- 
plied by  an  Episcopal  Head.  The  facts  were  stated 
by  the  Bishop  of  Shanghai ;  but  the  inference  was 
left  undrawn.  Our  brethren  were  not  slow,  how- 
ever, in  noting  it.  He  also  stated  that  the  Bible 
had  been  translated  into  the 

TRANSLATION  ,    .      ,.  ,  ,  . 

Mandarin  dialect,  and  thus  put 
INTO  MANDARIN.  '  r 

within  the  reach  of  300,000,000 
of  the  human  family.  So  modestly  was  the  state- 
ment made,  that  no  one  would  have  dreamed  that 
he  had  any  part  in  this  noble  achievement.  An- 
other speaker  lifted  the  veil,  and  told  the  story  of 
Dr.  Schereschewsky's  sixteen  years'  residence  in 
Pekin,  and  the  wonderful  skill  which  he  had  now 
attained  as  a  scholar  of  Chinese  classics. 

At  the  morning  meeting,  Bishop 

AMERICAN    _    ,  „         ,  *      ■»-»  .« 

Bedell  read  a  paper  on  the  horeign 
MISSIONS.  r  1  13 

Missions,  and  at  the  afternoon  meet- 
ing Bishop  Littlejohn  read  one  on  the  Domestic 
Missions  of  our  Church ;  both  papers  having  been 
prepared  by  request  of  the  S.  P.  G.,  in  order  to  ac- 
quaint English  Churchmen  with  the  missionary  la- 
bors of  the  sister  Church  beyond  the  sea. 


THE  VENERABLE  SOCIETY.  33 
In  the  evening  of  this  mem- 

ABBEY  SERMON. 

orable  day,  the  ancient  Ab- 
bey of  Westminster  opened  its  nave  for  a  sermon 
dedicated  to  the  recollections  of  the  work  of  the 
S.  P.  G.,  by  the  Bishop  of  Pennsylvania.  As  the 
successor  of  our  first  Bishop,  the  venerable  White, 
it  was  eminently  fitting  that  he  should  commemo- 
rate those  labors  of  the  Society  which  led  to  our  re- 
ception of  an  independent  Episcopacy.  I  need 
hardly  add,  that  the  task  was  well  fulfilled  ;  and 
the  story  eloquently  told,  of  missions  in  the 
Colonies,  which  ended  in  the  establishment  of  the 
Protestant  Episcopal  Church  in  the  United  States. 

On  one  Sunday,  it  is  said  that 
S.  P.  G.  SERMONS  .     .    ,  , 

seventy  sermons  in  behalf  of 
ELSEWHERE.  } 

the  Venerable  Society  were 
preached  in  its  interest  in  and  near  London.  My 
own  appeals  were  made  at  Canterbury,  at  various 
churches  in  London,  at  Farnham,  at  Edinburgh, 
and  in  Switzerland.  The  pleasant  story  was  often 
told,  and  ought  never  to  be  forgotten  ;  how,  because 
of  the  fostering  care  of  this  Society,  a  little  one  be- 
came a  thousand,  and  a  small  one  a  strong  national 
Church,  growing  and  enlarging  until  its  borders  are 
now  co-extensive  with  our  great  count ry,  and  its 
Dioceses  number  sixty-two.  At  every  opportunity  I 


3  4  THE  CA  N  TERB  UR  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  G  E. 

urged  that  letters  of  commendation  should  be  given 
by  pastors  to  those  English  Churchmen  who  were 
intending  to  emigrate  to  our  country;  and  should 
be  applied  for  and  used  by  them,  as  an  introduction 
to  some  Bishop  or  pastor  on  our  side  of  the  ocean  ; 
for  our  Church  is  constantly  losing  immigrant 
members  who  belong  to  it,  because  they  do  not 
make  themselves  known  to  us,  whilst  these  members 
of  our  household  of  faith  are  being  deprived  of 
privileges  to  which  they  have  every  right,  because 
of  their  ignorance  that  a  Daughter  of  the  Church 
of  England  is  waiting  to  greet  them  on  our  shores. 

I  heard  of,  but  did  not  hear,  and  therefore  can 
not  record,  sermons  in  this  interest  which  were 

preached  by  Bishops  Coxe,  Ker- 
THE  BISHOPS'    ,         _ITM  _   ,  „     ,  , 

preaching  '  Wllmer>  Robertson,  Spald- 

ing, and  Howe,  besides  those  who 
have  been  already  named  ;  and,  as  of  special  inter- 
est, an  address  by  Bishop  Clarkson  at  the  mission- 
ary meeting  at  Salisbury.  Certainly  our  Bishops 
were  not  idle  during  these  weeks  of  their  Canter- 
bury pilgrimage ;  nor  was  there  any  lack  of  grateful 
willingness  to  return,  as  far  as  earnest  advocacy 
could  avail,  our  Church's  obligation  to  the  England 
of  the  1 8th  century,  and  to  the  Venerable  Society 
which  was  its  almoner. 


VI. 


CANTERBURY. 

The  Deanery,  Canterbury. 

At  last  we  have  reached  the  old  home  of  Bertha, 
and  the  ancient  seat  of  Augustine,  the  Archbishop. 
The  Very  Reverend  the  Dean,  Payne  Smith,  who 
entertained  us,  is  the  worthy  successor  of  Alford  in 
learning,  although  Oriental  learning  is  his  specialty. 
His  deanery  is  the  quaintest  of  quaint  old  abbey 
ruins — the  prior's  house  restored.  The  chambers 
and  corridors  go  wandering; 

A  PRIOR'S  HOUSE. 

along;  here  opening  into  a 
fine  library,  there  into  a  beautiful  modern  drawing- 
room  ;  then,  up  a  stairway  into  a  quiet  suite  of 
rooms  with  mullioned  windows,  embowered  in  ivy 
and  adorned  with  rose  vines  and  clematis,  fit  for  a 
bride  ;  then,  at  an  angle,  into  a  tower  where  a  her- 
mit might  find  the  solitude  he  desires,  whilst  he 
looks  out  on  silent  ruins,  or  up  to  the  gilt  fingers 
of  the  cathedral  clock,  which  mark,  but  do  not  ut- 
ter, the  passing  hours.  Then  by  a  few  more  steps, 
on  one  side  is  another,  tower  where  the  young 

(35) 


36  THE  CA  Ar  TERB  UR  Y  PJL  GRIM  A  GE. 

ladies  of  the  family  have  their  boudoir,  and  on  the 
other  a  corridor,  which  runs  above  the  ancient 
cloisters  of  the  monks,  and  on  this  corridor  are 
our  rooms.  On  one  side  we  look  out  upon  a 
modern  garden,  English-wise,  a  rich  turf  inter- 
spersed with  patches  of  flowers  and  ferns ;  on  the 
other  we  see  a  public  park  where  the  boys  are  at 
play  at  cricket,  and,  close  to  it,  a  part  of  the  ruined 
priory,  perfectly  imbedded  in  ivy ;  and  rising  just 
beyond  it  the  exquisitely  beautiful  pointed  gothic, 
square,  and  pinnacled  tower  of  Canterbury  Cathe- 
dral.   Oh,  how  beautiful  a  scene  it  is ! 

The  deanery  garden  is  bounded  by  the  ancient 
wall  of  the  city.  The  crenelated  top  is  still  per- 
fect, where  once  soldiers  sheltered  themselves 
whilst  kindling  their  match-locks  before  taking  a 
chance  shot  through  the  embrasures :  and  the  sol- 
diers' walk,  within  the  battlements  and  below  the 
top,  sufficiently  sheltered,  still  remains,  now  turned 
into  a  promenade  where  young  men  and  maidens 
stroll  to  overlook  the  movements  of  the  garden 
parties  at  the  Dean's.  In  the  still  older  days, 
these  Norman  walls  bristled  with  cross-bows  and 
archers'  arrows.  They  take  us  back  in  memory  to 
the  conquest.  Going  through  the  veritable  old 
postern  gate,  we  come  to  the  front  of  St.  Augus- 


CANTERBURY.  37 

tine's.    There  was  an  old  feud  between  the  Abbot 
of  St.  Augustine's  and  the  Prior  of  Canterbury. 
It  was  settled  not  very  long  ago.    I  could  not 
learn  the  merits  of  the  case. 
ST.  AUGUST/NX'S    ^  .g  a  ^  rivalry  stiH 

between  the  picturesqueness 
of  the  views  which  belong  to  the  two.    Behind  the 
new  buildings  of  St.  Augustine's  Missionary  School 
(buildings  not  more  than  two  or  three  hundred 
years  old,  the  newer  being  built  in  strict  accord 
with  the  style  and  material  of  the  older)  are  the 
ruins  of  hospice  and  sanctuary  and  abbey,  which 
date  long  ago,  some  of  them  as  early  as  Bertha  and 
Ethelbert ;  perhaps  earlier.    As  yofl  look  through 
the  Warden's  window,  within  a  frame  of  grand  oak- 
branches  you  can  see  an  arch.    It  is  all  that  re- 
mains of  the  gateway  which  led  up  to  the  church 
where  Bertha  worshipped.    It  is  supposed  that  the 
present  St.  Martin's  is  the  successor  of  that  church. 
It  has  been  restored,  and  is  certainly  a  most  cu- 
rious relic  of  the  past.    Somewhere  between  St. 
Martin's  and  St.  Augustine's,  Bertha  and  Ethelbert 
and  Augustine  were  buried,  and  many  another  who 
have  a  place  in  English  Church  history.  Their 
graves  are  not  now  to  be  seen.     Armies  have 
passed  over  the  places,  and,  what  is  far  more  disas- 


3  8  THE  CA  N  TERB  UR  Y  P1L  GRIM  A  GE. 

trous  to  sacred  relics,  iconoclasts  and  Cromwells 
have  made  havoc  with  monuments  that  were  dear 
to  Canterbury  and  to  the  Church. 


lege  took  place. 

This  college  is  built  upon  the  site  of  St:  Augus- 
tine's Monastery,  and  includes  all  of  that  ancient 
structure  which  has  been  preserved.  The  property 
was  purchased  by  Mr.  Beresford  Hope,  and  pre- 
sented by  him  to  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury, 
in  trust  for  a  Mission  College  in  connection  with 
the  Church  of^Lngland.  The  service  alluded  to  is 
intended  both  to  commemorate  the  founders  of  the 
college,  and  the  missionaries  who  go  forth  from  it. 
It  is  deeply  impressive.  Bishop  Coxe,  of  Western 
New  York,  preached  the  sermon ;  eloquent,  sug- 
gestive, replete  with  historical  allusions  and  college 
reminiscences. 


Hope  in  the  Commons  Hall,  occupying  a  table  on 
the  dais,  whilst  the  students  sat  at  tables  "  below 
the  salt."     It  was  of  deep  interest  to  see  so  many 


CON.  MEMOR. 


BORA  TIO. 


On  the  morning  of  St.  Peter's 
Day,  the  annual  Commemoration 
of  St.  Augustine's  Missionary  Col- 


DINNER  IN 


THE  HALL. 


After  these  services,  the  Bishops, 
clergy,  and  other  visitors  dined  with 
the   Warden    and    Mr.  Beresford 


CANTERBURY. 


39 


young  men  gathered  together,  whose  lives  were  de- 
voted to  missions.  They  are  educated  here  at 
comparatively  small  cost.  The  term  of  study 
seemed  to  us  too  brief;  averaging  only  two  years. 
But  the  men  have  proved  useful  and  courageous. 

A  pleasant  custom  is  observed  here.  Along  the 
corridor  on  which  the  students' rooms  open,  at  the 
corner  of  each  bay,  are  inscribed  the  names  of 
graduates  who  have  gone  into  the  field,  after  occu- 
pying that  set  of  chambers.  So  that,  as  you  walk 
along,  you  may  read  a  memorial  of  missionary  men, 
many  of  whom  have  already  become  familiar  to  the 
Church  by  their  devoted  deeds. 

The  great  event  of  the  day  was*  yet  to  come. 
Early  in  the  afternoon,  throngs  began  to  gather  at 
the  Cathedral.    For  the  Archbishop  had  appointed 


tine's  chair.  The  ceremony  was  majestic.  The 
Cathedral,  Christ  Church,  is  one  of  the  most  glo- 
rious of  these  sacred  edifices.  Its  style  is  a  rich, 
early  gothic.  The  nave  is  grandly  proportioned. 
Columns  rise  on  each  side,  dividing  it  from  the 
•aisles,  and  towering  toward  heaven.  By  stone 
steps  you  ascend  from  the   nave  to   the  choir. 


CANTERBURY 


CA  THEDRAL. 


to  receive  the  Bishops  in  his 
own  church,  and  had  promised 
to   address   them   from  Augus- 


40  THE  CA  X  TERB  UK  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 

The  choir  is  a  church  in  its  own  proportions,  and 
will  seat  1,000  people.  At  the  east  end  of  the 
choir,  by  another  series  of  marble  steps  and  broad 
platforms,  you  ascend  toward  the  Holy  Table.  On 
the  second  of  these  platforms  the  stone  chair  of 
St.  Augustine  had  been  placed,  and  around  it  were 
seats  for  the  visiting  Bishops.  On  the  north  side 
of  the  Cathedral  are  the  cloisters,  covered  pas- 
sages opening  on  a  square  of  velvet  turf,  on  which 
you  look  through  arches  supported  on  low  gothic 
columns.  On  the  inner  side  of  the  cloister  the 
Chapter-house  opens.  In  the  Chapter-house  Bish- 
ops and  clergy  were  gathered ; 
PROCESSION.  , 

twenty  Bishops  or  more,  and  sixty 

or  seventy  clergy.  The  choir  boys  and  men  began 
to  pass  along  the  cloister  chanting  joyously.  Then 
the  clergy  followed,  also  in  surplices ;  and  then  the 
Bishops  in  their  robes  added  to  the  movement. 
Lastly,  the  Archbishop  appeared,  supported  by  the 
Bishop  of  Winchester.  And  then  the  arches  be- 
gan to  ring  with  the  triumphant  hymn  of  the  white- 
robed  throng.  The  scene,  as  we  entered  the  west 
door,  can  never  be  forgotten.  The  whole  length 
of  the  nave  was  filled  by  the  procession,  and  the 
boys  were  already  ascending  the  marble  steps  into 
the  choir  when  the  Archbishop  reached  the  door ; 


CANTERBURY. 


41 


whilst  along  the  arches,  and  reverberating  against 
the  fretted  roof,  until  the  whole  vast  temple  was 
resonant  with  sacred  song,  the  Psalm  was  ringing : 

"  I  was  glad  when  they  said  unto  me, 
We  will  go  into  the  House  of  the  Lord." 

When  the  Archbishop  took  his  seat  in  the  stone 

chair  of  St.  Augustine,  surrounded  by  a  crowd  of 

Bishops  from   all    parts  of 
HIS  GRACE  '     u         -  - 

^  „   „    ,,.„„    the  world,  and  by  a  throng 

THE  ARCHBISHOP.  y  s 

of  devout  people  filling 
every  spot  in  the  choir  and  transepts,  the  scene 
may  well  be  declared  full  of  grandeur.  No  such 
scene  has  been  witnessed  in  Protestant  England 
since  the  Reformation.  The  influence  of  his  words 
will  not  soon  pass  away  from  the  sympathizing 
hearts  of  those  who  listened  to  them.  Twelve 
hundred  and  fifty  years  separated  Augustine  and 
himself,  and  yet  through  all  that  long  interval — 
1,250  years,  think  of  it — the  Church  of  England 
had  been  preserved  amidst  troubles  and  trials  and 
disasters.  There  were  the  two  signs  of  this  con- 
tinuous life :  the  gray  stone  chair,  and  the  grave 
figure  of  the  Archbishop.  Perhaps  you  can  imag- 
ine the  impressiveness  of  the  scene.  It  is  not  to 
be  adequately  described.     Back  of  us  was  the 


42  THE  CAXTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

Lady's  Chapel,  marking  the  inroads  of  Romanism  ; 
close  behind  the  Lord's  Table  was  the  tomb  of 
Thomas  a  Becket ;  near  it  the  tomb  of  the  Black 
Prince,  over  which  are  still  hanging  the  remnants 
of  his  chain  coat,  his  helmet,  and  his  steel  gloves. 
Around  us  were  tombs  upon  tombs  of  Archbish- 
ops, and  Bishops,  and  great  men  of  English  history  ; 
above  us,  the  vaulted  roof  of  the  old  Norman 
choir  restored ;  about  us,  the  later  transepts  of 
early  gothic ;  and  beyond  us,  the  tracery  of  the 
beautiful  roof  of  the  nave  in  pointed  gothic, 
stretching  away  hundreds  of  feet  toward  the  great 
west  window,  through  which  the  afternoon  sun  was 
sending  softened  rays.  And  around  the  Archbishop 
were  representative  Bishops  from  countries  that 
cover  the  whole  earth,  showing  to  what  proportion 
the  old  root  of  Anglican  Christianity  had  grown. 
When  you  add  to  this  the  impression  of  psalms 
chanted  by  hundreds  of  trained  voices,  and  an- 
thems reverberating  through  aisles  and  arches,  you 
will  get  an  idea  of  an  incident  in  the  Church's  life 
which  will  live  in  the  memory  of  all  who  were 
privileged  to  share  it.  Surely  it  may  take  its  place 
in  history  as  a  golden  link  between  the  past  and 
the  certain  future,  the  triumph-time  of  the  Church. 
One  of  the  most  striking  passages  in  this  address, 


CA  N  TERB  UR  Y.  43 

was  that  in  which  he  welcomed 

THE  ADDRESS.      ,  ,  .     ,        _  _ 

the  members  of  the  Confer- 
ence to  "  Christ  Church,  Canterbury;  "  not  to  the 
Church  of  St.  Peter  or  St.  Paul,- although  such  a 
dedication  might  have  been  expected  from  the 
Archbishop  who  came  hither  1,250  years  ago  from 
Rome ;  nor  to  the  Church  of  St.  Mary  or  St.  Pan- 
eras.  He  who  came  here  to  preach  Christianity 
knew  nothing  of  the  doctrine  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception  ;  of  the  Infallibility  of  the  Pope,  nor 
of  the  devotions  of  the  Sacred  Heart.  Gregory 
sent  Augustine  that  he  might  mark  England  with 
the  name  of  Christ. 

When  the  Archbishop  welcomed  the  Bishops 
from  the  United  States,  and  tried  to  thank  them 
for  attentions  showed  to  his  son,  his  voice  failed 
him,  and  he  closed  his  address.  Our  sympathies  sup- 
plied the  rest,  and  many  a  tear  responded  to  the 
father's  grief. 

On  Sunday,  the  30th  of  June,  the  Bishop  of  Mon- 
treal preached  in  the  morning  in  the  cathedral,  and 
Bishop  Stevens  in  the  afternoon.  Bishop  Bedell 
preached  in  the  Church  of  St.  Gregory,  one  of  the 
parish  churches,  in  the  evening.  All  these  sermons 
were  in  the  interest  of  the  S.  P.  G. 

Bishop  Stevens  "  described  the  living  forms  of 


44  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE.  + 

the  Church  in  language  harmonizing  completely 

with  that  of  our  best  divines,  showing  a  strong 

conviction  of  the  Divine  mission  of  the  Church, 

without  any  attempt  to  magnify  the  merely  human 

side  of  its  organization." 

On    Monday  of  this  week 
HOOKER'S  CHURCH   ~  _    .  ,  , 

„  „        Dean   Smith  drove  us  out 

AND  HOME. 

to  Bishop's  -  bourne  (origi- 
nally Bishop's-burn,  or  brook),  where  the  "  judicious 
Hooker"  lived  and  ministered.  The  parsonage  is 
now  in  hands  which  have  made  it,  as  well  as  the 
grounds  around  it,  very  attractive  (Rev.  Mr.  Hurst). 
We  saw  the  old  parish  record  book,  in  which  are 
many  records  that  bear  Richard  Hooker's  signature. 
One  of  the  records  has  lost  its  signature — cut  out 
of  the  book  by  some  visiting  vandal.  Some  trav- 
ellers have  yet  to  learn  that  stealing  is  not  condoned 
by  a  thirst  for  curiosities.  We  saw  the  library,  too, 
where,  as  I  suppose,  he  wrote  the  Ecclesiastical 
Polity  ;  and  we  walked  beside  the  hedge  of  yew 
which  he  nurtured.  It  is  said  to  be  300  years  old. 
I  could  not  reach  with  my  umbrella  to  within  six 
feet  of  the  top.  It  must,  therefore,  be  more  than 
twelve  feet  high  ;  it  is  twelve  feet  wide,  and  so  thick 
that  men  walk  on  the  top  to  trim  it,  and  in  doing 
so,  we  were  told,  they  do  not  sink  in  more  than  a 


CANTERBURY.  45 

few  inches.  Returning,  our  party,  consisting  of 
Bishop  and  Mrs.  Stevens,  and  Bishop  and  Mrs. 
Perry  and  their  niece,  with  the  Dean  and  ourselves 
and  the  rector  and  his  wife,  were  very  handsomely 
entertained  at  lunch  by  Mr.  Tattersall  and  his  fam- 
ily. They  are  leading  members  of  the  Church,  and 
greatly  useful  in  the  parish.  Their  estate  is  charm- 
ingly situated  and  highly  cultivated.  Their  halls 
are  adorned  with  choice  specimens  of  art. 

Leaving  the  house,  a  heavy  rain  came  on,  for 
which  most  of  the  party  were  unprepared.  Con- 
sequently, as  we  were  in  an  open  drag,  those  "  Can- 
terbury pilgrims  "  came  back  to  the  deanery  well- 
drenched. 


VII. 


THE  LAMBETH  CONFERENCE. 

London. 

The  first  meetings  of  the  Conference  have  passed. 
Archbishops,  Primates,  Metropolitans,  and  Bishops, 
representing  the  Churches  of  England,  Ireland, 
Scotland,  the  United  States,  and  the  Colonies  of 
the  Empire,  assembled  at  the  chapel  in  Lambeth 
Palace  on  the  second  day  of  July,  1878.  In  this 
chapel  our  first  Bishops  were  consecrated.  It  is 
historical  for  us.  One  hundred  Bishops  were  pres- 
ent during  the  sessions. 

At  eleven  o'clock  on  this  day,  the 

THE 

CONFERENCE.   Bish°PS  enj0yed  ^  of 
Holy  Communion  together ;  the 

Archbishop  of  York  preaiihed  the  sermon.  After 
lunch,  provided  in  Lambeth  Palace,  the  Conference 
assembled  in  the  Library,  under  the  presidency  of 
his  Grace  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury. 

Bishop  Lee,  of  Delaware,  the   eldest  of  our 
Bishops  present,  has  acted  as  our  Chairman,  and 
on  several  occasions  as  our  representative.  Upon 
(46) 


THE  LAMBE  TH  CONFERENCE. 


47 


all  important  topics  our  Bishops  were  heard  ;  and 
in  all  the  Committees  they  have  a  share. 

The  proceedings  were  "  apart."  I  am  not  at 
liberty  to  report  them,  except  as  they  may  be  in- 
ferred from  final  action.  But  the  following  ac- 
count appeared  in  the  English  papers,  leading  to 
an  impression  that  reporters  are  ubiquitous.  The 
report  is  not  authoritative,  yet  it  is  not  very  wide 
of  the  truth,  and  you  may  take  it  for  what  it  is 
worth  : 


before  the  Conference  one  stood  pre-eminent  in  im- 
portance— that  which  related  to  the  best  modes  of 
meeting  the  prevalent  infidelity  of  the  day.  The 
subject  discussed  on  the  first  afternoon  was,  The  Best 
Mode  of  Maintaining  Union  among  the  various 
Churches  of  the  Anglican  Communion.  Bishop 
Perry  was  one  of  the  speakers.  After  some  discus- 
sion, the  subject  was  referred  to  a  Committee,  which 
course  was  taken  with  all  the  subjects  that  came  be- 
fore the  Conference.  The  subject  on  Wednesday 
morning  was,  Voluntary  Boards  of  Arbitration.  The 
Bishop  of  Delaware  took  part  in  this  discussion. 
The  subject  for  the  afternoon  was,  The  Relation  to 


PROCEEDINGS. 


THE 


"  The  Archbishop  of  Canterbury, 
in  his  opening  address,  said,  that 
among  the  subjects  that  came 


48  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

each  other  of  Missionary  Bishops  and  of  Missiona- 
ries in  various  Branches  of  the  Anglican  Co  in  in  un- 
ion acting  in  the  same  Country.  The  subject  was 
opened  by  Bishop  Schereschewsky,  and  among  the 
speakers  who  followed  were  Bishop  Stevens  and 
Bishop  Bedell.  On  Thursday  morning  the  subject 
was,  The  Position  of  Anglican  Cluiplains  and  Chap- 
laincies on  the  Continent  of  Europe  and  elsewhere. 
Among  the  speakers  were  the  Bishops  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, North  Carolina,  and  Long  Island.  The  sub- 
ject on  Thursday  afternoon  was,  Modern  Forms  of 
Infidelity,  and  the  Best  Methods  of  Meeting  than 
The  Bishop  of  Ohio  introduced  the  subject.  Xo 
other  Bishop  from  the  United  States  took  part  in 
the  discussion.  Among  the  speakers  were  the 
Bishops  of  Peterborough  ( Magee),  Lincoln  (Words- 
worth), Oxford  (Mackarness),  Gloucester  and  Bris- 
tol (Ellicott),  Winchester  (Browne),  and  the  Arch- 
bishop of  York  (Thompson).  The  Pall  Mall  Ga- 
zette says  of  Bishop  Ellicott's  speech  on  this  occa- 
sion :  '  Though  other  speakers  were  more  eloquent, 
it  was  almost  universally  acknowledged  that  Bishop 
Ellicott's  speech  was,  where  all  were  so  good,  the 
best.  Commencing  very  quietly,  there  was  nothing 
in  his  manner  or  style  to  lead  the  foreign  Bishops 
to  anticipate  a  great  speech  ;  but  as  he  dissected 


THE  LAMBETH  CONFERENCE. 

the  various  forms  of  infidelity,  and  showed  the  most 
intimate  acquaintance  with  the  prevalent  skepti- 
cism, not  only  in  England,  whether  among  the  edu- 
cated or  ignorant  classes,  but  all  over  the  world, 
the  attention  of  the  synod  was  chained  ;  and  in  an 
eloquent  peroration  he  protested  against  the  un- 
faithfulness and  timidity  which  would  permit  any 
to  think  that  in  this  age,  as  in  others,  God's  arm 
was  shortened,  and  that  His  truth  would  not  ulti- 
mately triumph  over  the  wave  of  infidelity,  of  which 
he  thought  we  had  already  seen  the  worst.'  " 

In  any  report  of  this  remarkable  discussion,  which 
assumes  to  be  at  all  accurate,  the  wonderful  speech 
of  the  Bishop  of  Killaloe  (Ireland)  must  not  pass 
unnoted.  Quiet  and  extempore,  it  was  yet  so  terse, 
lucid,  logical,  and  forceful,  as  to  secure  most  marked 
attention.  The  Bishop  of  Bombay  is  not  men- 
tioned in  the  foregoing  sketch.  He  threw  great 
light  on  the  particular  forms  in  which  modern  ob- 
jections present  themselves  to  young  men,  illus- 
trating it  by  his  own  experiences  at  the  university. 
The  whole  discussion  was  instructive. 

"  The  last  subject  on  the  programme  was,  The 
Condition,  Progress,  and  Needs  of  the  various 
Churches  of  the  Anglican  Communion.  This  was 
introduced  by  the  Bishop  of  Delaware.  A  large 
3 


50  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

number  of  Bishops  took  part  in  the  discussion  ; 
from  the  United  States,  the  Bishops  of  Western 
New  York,  Pittsburg,  Ohio,  Central  Pennsylvania, 
Albany,  and  Iowa.  The  Conference  then  adjourned 
to  July  22d,  to  give  the  Committees  time  to  prepare 
their  reports." 

The  Committees  embrace  all  the  members  of  the 
Conference.  They  are  to  sit  during  the  interven- 
ing fortnight,  and  to  present  their  reports  at  the 
second  series  of  sessions  in  the  last  week  of  July. 

During  the  Conference  all  the  Bish- 
SOCIALLY.  _  TT  .     ,  „ 

ops  from  the    United    States  have 

been  hospitably  entertained  by  the  Bishops,  or 
clergy  and  laity  of  the  Church  of  England.  Two 
social  events  have  happened  of  much  interest. 
The  first  was  the  Lord  Mayor's  annual  dinner  to 
the  Bishops,  to  which  all  the  Archbishops  and  Bish- 
ops in  London  were  invited.  At  this  magnificent 
entertainment  in  the  Egyptian  Hall  of  the  Man- 
sion House,  almost  all  our  Bishops  were  present ; 
and  in  reply  to  the  toast  proposed  by  the  Lord 
Mayor,  referring  to  the  United  States  and  our  Bish- 
ops, Bishop  Potter,  the  eldest  present,  responded. 

The  second  event  was  a  reception  given  by  our 
American  Minister,  Mr.  Welsh,  on  the  Fourth  of 
July,  to  the  Americans  in  London  ;  at  which  time 


THE  LAMBETH  CO  XF  F.REN CE.  e,i 

almost  all  of  our  Bishops  and  their  families  paid  their 
respects  to  the  representative  of  our  Government. 

The  Baroness  Burdett-Coutts,  the  well-known 
philanthropic  lady,  gave  an  entertainment  on  the 
same  evening,  to  which  all  the  American  Bishops, 
with  their  wives,  were  invited.  A  crowd  of  nota- 
ble English  people  and  foreigners  were  also  there. 
It  was  a  distinguished  company,  and  afforded  us  an 
opportunity  of  seeing,  and  of  making  some  acquaint- 
ance with  men  whose  names  are  passing  into  history. 

The  Lord  Mayor's  dinner  may  have  a  more  ex- 
tended notice ;  for  it  is  an  annual  public  event. 

An  entertainment  at  the  Man- 
LORD  MAYOR'S  TT  .        .  ,  , 

n,.,.,rD  sion  House  is  given  by  the 
DINNER.  J 

representatives  of  the  city  of 
London  and  its  guilds,  to  the  Bishops.  It  was  our 
good  fortune  to  be  in  London  at  the  time,  and 
more  than  ordinary  interest  was  given  to  this 
occasion  by  the  presence  of  so  many  Bishops  from 
all  parts  of  the  world.  Eighty  of  them  were 
present,  and  the  guests  numbered  nearly  400. 
The  Lord  Mayor  and  the  Lady  Mayoress  received 
their  guests  at  the  head  of  the  long  hall.  They 
were  gorgeously  apparelled,  and  on  either  side 
stood  the  mace-bearer,  and  the  sword-bearer,  of  the 
city  of  London,  vieing  with  each  other  in  the 


5  2  THE  CA  N  TERB  UR  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 

quaintness  and  glory  of  their  bedightment.  Each 
guest  was  announced  by  the  Master  of  Ceremonies, 
and  queer  work  enough  he  made  of  some  of  our 
titles.  For  it  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  he  had 
ever  heard  before  of  many  of  the  colonial  bishop- 
rics, certainly  not  of  many  of  our  new  territories. 
The  slight  difference  between  Iowa  and  Ohio 
puzzled  him  greatly,  and  not  he  alone  has  been 
puzzled  at  it.  The  new  pronunciation  of  Haiti 
troubled  him.  Fortunately  the  Bishop  of  Shang- 
hai gave  his  title,  not  his  name,  or  he  would  have 
abandoned  his  office  in  despair.  But  Pennsylvania 
capped  the  climax,  for  he  announced  it  as  the 
"  Lord  Bishop  of  Pennsil-vaah-neh-ar."  But  we 
got  safely  through  this  ordeal,  and  followed  the 
Lord  Mayor  into  the  Egyptian  Hall.  Certainly,  it 
was  an  extraordinary  and  a  gorgeous  sight.  The 
hall  is  magnificent ;  a  lofty  arched  ceiling  is  sup- 
ported on  rich  marble  columns,  the  walls  lined 
with  mirrors,  and  everywhere  it  is  bright  with  gold 
and  luminous  with  crimson.  Within  the  range  of 
columns  the  tables  were  spread,  loaded  with  gold 
and  silver  and  flowers  and  viands,  and  surrounded 
by  lacqueys  clad  in  every  color  of  the  rainbow, 
many  with  powdered  hair.  The  room  is  so  large 
that  a  face  could  not  be  distinguished  half-way 


THE  LAMBETH  CONFERENCE.  53 

down  it.  The  high  table,  at  which  the  Lord  Mayor 
sat  in  the  centre,  reached  the  whole  length,  and 
at  least  eight  tables  extended  across  the  hall  from 
it,  like  the  teeth  of  a  comb  (pardon  the  compari- 
son).   At  these  sat  the  numerous  guests. 

His  Grace  the  Archbishop  of  York  sat  at  the 
left  of  the  Lady  Mayoress,  and  opened  the  after- 
dinner  speeches;  but  neither  he  nor  those  who 
followed  could  be  heard,  except  by  persons  near  at 
hand.  Fortunately,  Bishop  Potter  had  arrived  a 
day  or  two  previously,  and  therefore  I  was  spared 
the  distress  of  replying  to  the  toast  in  compliment 
to  the  American  Bishops,  which  had  been  at  one 
time  assigned  to  me.  But  either  the  Toast-Master 
had  gone  a  little  astray  in  geography,  or  the  Lord 
Mayor  gracefully  intended  to  ignore  a  trifling 
political  event  which  happened  in  1776,  for  he 
coupled  the  Bishops  from  the  Colonies  and  the 
Bishops  from  the  United  States  together,  as  both 
equally  related  to  England.  However,  Bishop 
Potter  very  judiciously  took  it  as  an  intended 
compliment.  The  wife  of  each  Bishop  was  invited, 
and,  indeed,  there  were  nearly  as  many  ladies  as 
gentlemen  at  the  table.  The  band  complimented 
us  by  playing  our  national  airs  during  a  portion  of 
the  time. 


VIII. 


THE  INTERVAL. 

London. 

During  the  fortnight  that  will  intervene,  be- 
tween the  first  and  final  sessions  of  the  Conference, 
the  Bishops  will  be  busy  on  Committees.  Some  of 
these  combine  enjoyment  with  business,  holding 
their  meetings  where  the  members  are  entertained, 
at  one  or  other  of  the  Episcopal  palaces,  amidst 
rural  delights.  As  it  happens,  the  Committee 
with  which  my  lot  is  cast  meets  at  Lambeth,  con- 
sequently I  must  not  be  far  from  London.  During 
this  interval,  our  Bishops  especially,  and  the  Colo- 
nial Bishops  generally,  are  to  be  working  for  the 
Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel  in  For- 
eign Parts. 

Among  the  sixty  or  seventy  sermons  preached 
on  Sunday,  July  7,  were  two  in  St.  Paul's  Cathe- 
dral, by  Bishop  Doane,  who  preached  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  Bishop  Stevens  in  the  afternoon,  to 
crowded  congregations.  I  preached  in  the  morn- 
ing at  the  Kensington  parish  church,  part  of  the 
old  Lambeth  parish,  for  Archdeacon  Fischer. 
(54) 


THE  INTERVAL.  55 

In  the  evening  I  had  the  privilege 

NA  VE  OF      f  hi       in  the  nave  of  St. 

ST.  PA  UL'S.  1  b 

Paul's,  to  an  immense  congregation. 

Canon  Gregory  said  that  at  least  six  thousand  were 
present.  The  nave  below  the  dome,  and  the  choir, 
were  filled,  and  the  crowd  of  people  extended  from 
the  dome  half-way  to  the  great  entrance-door  in 
front.  It  was  an  occasion  not  to  be  lost,  and 
never  to  be  forgotten.  As  one  stands  in  the  pul- 
pit surrounded  by  such  a  crowd  of  eager  upturned 
faces,  emotions  are  almost  overwhelming.  What 
an  opportunity  for  the  Gospel  of  the  Lord  Jesus 
Christ.  No  language  can  sufficiently  express  the 
gratitude  due  to  the  wisdom  and  thoughtfulness 
of  that  Dean,  who  set  the  example  of  thus  utiliz- 
ing this  once  comparatively  useless  nave,  for  the 
purpose  of  preaching  the  Gospel.  It  is  now  an 
established  institution.  Three  or  four  thousand 
worship  here  every  Sunday  morning,  four  or  five 
thousand  every  Sunday  afternoon,  five  or  six 
thousand  every  Sunday  evening.  In  the  evening 
the  choir  is  voluntary,  and  the  music  strictly  con- 
gregational. Seventy  young  men  formed  the  choir 
on  this  evening ;  and  the  burst  of  song  from  the 
great  throng,  led  by  these  strong,  manly  voices, 
and  sustained  by  the  grand  organ,  was  soul-stirring. 


IX. 


SOCIAL  LIFE. 

Fulham  Palace. 
We  were  entertained  by  the  Lord  Bishop  of  Lon- 
don during  the  first  week  of  the  Conference.  His 
residence  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Thames, 
about  four  miles  above  the  Parliament  House  and 
Lambeth.  The  grave  Bishop  of  Chester,  and  the 
mirthful  Bishop  of  Peterborough  —  the  one  as 
learned  as  he  is  grave,  the  other  as  eloquent  as  he  is 
mirth-provoking  —  were^  choice  companions  at 
Fulham.  The  palace  dates  far  back  in  the  eccle- 
siastical history  of  England.  The  site  itself  is 
within  the  fortifications  which  Danish  sea-kings 
raised,  to  defend  themselves  and  their  ill-gotten 
spoil  from  the  vengeance  of  the  Britons.  We  were 
familiar  with  this  lovely  spot,  for  we  were  guests 
of  the  present  Archbishop  when  he  was  Bishop  of 
London,  at  the  Conference  held  eleven  years  ago. 
Its  delightful  associations  had  not  faded,  and  were 
now  freshened  by  charming  hospitality. 
(5<>) 


SOCIAL  LIFE. 


57 


THE  COYSUL- 


GENERAL. 


On  Saturday  of  this  week,  Gen. 
Badeau  invited  the  American 
Bishops  and  their  families  to  a 


Garden  Party  at  his  country  house.  The  American 
Minister,  with  many  distinguished  English  friends, 
honored  the  occasion.  Tents  wore  pitched  upon 
the  lawn.  English  hedge-rows,  brilliant  flowers, 
agreeable  company,  and  an  attentive  host,  produced 
a  very  enjoyable  afternoon. 


Bishop  of  Winchester.  We  have  often  heard 
Bishop  Mcllvaine  speak  of  the  scenery  environ- 
ing this  old  castle,  and  its  romantic  interest.  We 
are  enjoying  both  of  them  to-day,  through  the 
hospitality  of  the  present  Bishop  of  Winchester, 
well  known  to  theological  students  as  Harold 
Browne,  and  by  his  book  on  the  Articles.  He  oc- 
cupies at  present  a  leading  position  in  the  Church 
of  England  by  his  learning,  wisdom,  and  geniality. 
His  advice  is  deemed  of  great  weight,  and  it  is 
understood  that  he  influences  the  counsels  of  the 
Church. 

Farnham  certainly  possesses  great  attractions. 
It  has  been  a  Bishop's  residence  for  many  cen- 


FARNIIAM 


CASTLE. 


Farnham  Castle,  Surrey,  was  built  in 
the  reign  of  King  Stephen,  about 
1 136,  by  his  brother,  Henry  De  Blois, 


3 


5  8  THE  CANTERB  UR  V  P1L  GRIM, I GE. 

turics.  In  the  earlier  days  a  warlike  Bishop  had 
his  seat  here,  and  no  doubt  used  to  good  purpose 
the  defences,  if  not  the  offences,  of  the  old  baronial 
castle.  For  in  Cromwell's  day  it  had  its  keep,  and 
portcullis,  and  double  moat,  and  intricate  stone 
passages,  and  stone  stairs,  and  covered  ways,  and 
possibly  dungeons.  But  Cromwell  ordered  it  to  be 
destroyed  ;  and,  as  the  English  say,  "  it  was  con- 
siderably knocked  about "  in  those  days.  The 
Bishop,  whoever  he  may  have  been,  relinquished 
it  to  the  king,  and  Cromwell,  of  course,  made  it 
indefensible.  After  the  return  of  Charles  II.,  he 
restored  it  to  the  Bishop,  and  renewed  the  interior 
by  old  oak-work,  which  is  now  in  perfect  preserva- 
tion, and  very  beautiful.  The  upper 

THE  KEEP. 

walls  of  the  keep  were  thrown  in- 
ward, and  the  mass  of  ruin  accumulated,  until  quite 
a  late  date.  Bishop  Sumner  did  much  to  restore  its 
beauty.  Some  one,  possibly  he,  made  a  flower- 
garden  on  top  of  the  ruins  of  the  old  keep ;  and 
now,  on  the  summit  of  these  ivy-covered  walls,  and 
above  the  heaps  of  ruins,  are  walks  amidst  flowers 
and  sweet  shrubs,  overlooking  a  country  noted  for 
its  fertility,  and  the  ancient  village  of  Farnham,  a 
fine  specimen  of  old  English  quaintness. 

This  parish  is  noted  for  its  successful  cultivation 


SOCIAL  LIFE.  jjfl 

of  hops.  As  we  look  round  on  the  fields,  from  the 
keep,  they  remind  us  of  our  own  corn-fields.  The 
vines  are  planted  about  as  closely  as  Indian  corn, 
and  in  similar  rows.  But  as  the  roots  are  not  dis- 
turbed, the  fields  bear  the  same  aspect  from  year 
to  year.  The  Bishop  mentioned  a  fact,  entirely  new 
to  me,  that  many  of  these  hop  vines  are  as  old  as 
the  days  of  good  Queen  Bess,  and  have  been  in 
bearing  ever  since.  The  age,  and  constant,  careful 
cultivation,  account  for  the  extraordinary  yield  of 
this  township.  Thirty  pounds  per  acre  is  not  con- 
sidered too  much  to  lay  out  on  the  soil  and  vines, 
and  £50  per  acre  is  not  considered  too  much  to  ex- 
pect in  net  profits.  An  acre  often  yields  in  gross 
£100!  But  a  grand,  deep,  diapason  note  comes  at 
this  moment  from  the  old  bell  in  the  ancient  tower 
of  the  parish  church,  far  below  us,  and  recalls  me 
from  the  world. 

The  dining-room  is  one  of  those  baronial  halls 
which  you  read  of  in  books.    I  suppose  that  two 

THE  DINING  HALL.  be  SCated 

here  at  table,  with  room  to 

spare.  The  fire-place  is  gigantic  ;  the  mantel-shelf 
could  be  reached  only  by  a  Titan ;  and  the  Christ- 
mas yule-log  might  blaze  upon  the  hearth  while 
still  leaving  space,  I  ween,  for  Santa  Claus  to  come 


6o 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


down  the  chimney  with  his  pack  on  his  shoulder, 
without  singeing  his  fur  cloak.  But,  I  had  forgot- 
ten, that,  alas  !  for  English  children,  Santa  Claus 
and  Chris  Kingle  are  Germans  ;  nevertheless,  there 
would  be  space  enough  in  Farnham  Hall  for  any 
Christmas  giant  to  make  merry,  whoever  and  how- 
ever great  he  be.  Along  the  right  side,  above  the 
fire-place,  runs  a  gallery,  where  guests  coming  up 
from  the  porch  might  have  seen  the  revels  in  olden 
times ;  and  at  the  further  end,  over  where  the  dais 
might  have  been,  is  another  gallery,  on  which  the 
grand  stairway  terminates  above,  from  which  the 
ladies,  as  they  were  leaving  the  banqueters,  could 
have  overseen  and  checked  them  at  their  wine. 


a  sacred,  quiet  spot  for  daily  devotions,  where 
the  family  household  gather  for  morning  and 
evening  prayer.  It  is  also  used  by  the  Bishop  for 
some  ecclesiastical  occasions.  I  was  present  in  this 
chapel  on  one  evening,  as  the  twilight  was  gather- 
ing, when  he  admitted  a  Deaconess  to  her  order. 
The  service  was  simple,  dignified,  and  deeply  im- 
pressive. It  could  not  fail  of  fixing  on  her  heart 
the  solemn  duties  and  privileges  of  her  office. 


THE  PRIVA  TE 


CHAPEL. 


Like  all  the  residences  of  the 
Bishops  which  we  have  seen, 
Farnham  has  its  private  chapel ; 


SOCIAL  LIFE. 


61 


Aldershott  is  near  to  Farnham.  It  is  the  largest 
camp  for  the  regular  army.  If  it  were  not  for  the 
efforts  of  Christian  philanthropy,  many  destitute 
children  of  soldiers'  wives  would  be  sad  sufferers. 
We  visited  one  of  the  Deaconess'  houses,  and 
found  her  surrounded  by  a  group  of  merry  toddling 
infants ;  she,  a  very  house-mother  to  the  little 
waifs. 


by  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales.  When  we 
arrived  on  the  ground,  a  sham  battle  was  in  prog- 
ress ;  a  fearful  amount  of  powder  was  used,  and 
there  was  a  frightful  hurrying  in  hot  haste  of  offi- 
cers and  men.  Two  or  three  regiments  were 
advancing  under  cover  up  the  hill,  and  more  regi- 
ments were  falling  back  above  the  hill,  delivering 
and  receiving  fire.  But  the  real  thing  was  the 
"  marching  past."  More  than  20,000  men,  thoroughly 
drilled,  of  all  arms,  were  in  the  field.  Cavalry,  artil- 
lery, riflemen,  infantry,  went  by  by  regiments; 
steady,  heavily-treading,  immaculate  in  equipment ; 
lines  as  straight  and  true  as  an  arrow.  It  was  mag- 
nificent. They  marched  past  twice.  Then  form- 
ing in  solid  squares  in  front  of  the  Prince  and 


ALDERSHOTT. 


REVIEW  AT 


We  were  fortunate  enough  to 
learn  in  time  to  see  it,  that  a  re- 
view of  the  troops  was  to  be  held 


62 


THE  CANTERBURY  PIL GRIMA GE. 


Princess,  at  a  trumpet  note,  they  advanced  in  line, 
halted,  and  gave  the  royal  salute.  It  was  the  per- 
fection of  drill. 

On  Sunday  I  preached  in  the  parish  church,  in 
the  quaint  old  town,  below  the  Castle. 

In  the  afternoon  the  villagers  wan- 
THE  ELMS.  >  fa 

der  through  the  Bishop's  grand  old 

Park,  and  under  an  avenue  of  majestic  elms,  which 
extends  for  a  mile  and  a  half  in  a  straight  line  from 
the  Palace  Garden  gate.  It  is  a  peaceful  scene,  re- 
calling many  a  pleasant  tale  of  English  pastoral 
life. 

We  bid  good-bye  to  Farnham  to  become  the 
privileged  guests  of  Sir  Harry  Verney,  at  a  venera- 
ble house,  which  has  been  in  the  family  for  more 
than  four  hundred  years.     It  is  situated  about 

twenty  miles   north-east  of 
CLAY  DON  HOUSE.  Tr 

Oxford,    if  you  are  curious 

in  such  matters,  you  will  find  the  names  of  Verney 

and  Calvert,  both  being  the  names  of  this  family, 

as  members  of  the  Long  Parliament.    You  can 

trace  them  down  as  efficient  men  of  the  State,  or 

the  army,  or  the  navy,  all  the  way  to  the  present. 

One  commanded  a  regiment  under  Lord  Cornwallis, 

and  was  taken  prisoner  at  Yorktown,  and  was  for 

two  years  at  Winchester,  Va.    We  have  seen  to- 


SOCIAL  LIFE.  63 

day,  in  the  hall,  the  colors  of  his  regiment,  which 
were  carried  through  the  Peninsula  and  at  Water- 
loo ;  and  standards  taken  by  a  son  of  the  present 
Sir  Harry  Verney  in  the  battles  in  India.  So  these 
old  English  homes  are  connected  with  English 
history  from  generation  to  generation.  As  you 
trace  the  changes  in  architecture  or  ornaments,  or 
read  the  story  of  the  family  portraits,  you  have  an 
illustrated  history  of  this  strange,  eventful  life  of 
English  dominion.  The  chapel 
THE  CHAPEL.   of  claydon  House  js  historical: 

for  it  was  spared  from  spoliation  when  Cromwell's 
orders  ruthlessly  destroyed  almost  all  that  was 
venerated  and  lovely  in  the  houses  of  God.  Here 
you  see  unmutilated  effigies,  and  brass  inscription 
plates  in  perfect  preservation.  Family  influence 
within  the  staff  of  Cromwell  protected  even  loyal 
Claydon.  Here  are  three  grand  oaks— gnarled  and 
knotted,  but  vigorous,  their  branches  each  a  great 
tree,  their  trunks  thirty  feet  in  circumference — 
which  have  been  landmarks  on  record  for  more 
than  five  hundred  years.  Here  are  fish  ponds  in 
the  garden,  from  which  the  monks,  before  the 
Reformation,  used  to  take  their  fast-day  dinners. 
And  here  are  trophies  from  battle-fields  in  all  parts 
of  the  world.    And  in  our  circle  to-day  are  an  offi- 


64  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

cer  and  his  wife,  who  travelled  once  to  India  by  a 

strange  route.  They  went  down 
A  NEW  ROUTE  . 

^  „,„,„        the  Danube,  then  from  Varna 

/O  INDIA. 

to  Constantinople,  then  along 
the  Mediterranean  to  Aleppo,  and  by  Diabeker  to 
the  Tigris,  floated  down  that  river  on  rafts  made 
by  inflated  buffalo  skins,  passed  the  Garden  of 
Eden,  went  on  down  the  Euphrates,  crossed  into 
India,  and  joined  their  regiment  in  the  Himalayas. 
By  using  the  itineracies  of  such  adventurous  offi- 
cers as  these,  England  learns  the  practicable  routes 
of  the  world.  This  particular  officer,  as  earnest  a 
Christian  as  he  is  an  adventurous  traveller,  is  a  lay 
reader  at  his  station,  and  his  wife  has  a  native 
school  among  the  women,  and  teaches  in  the  zenan- 
as. Sir  Harry  himself  is  known  for  his  activity  in 
benevolence,  and  in  the  Church  Missionary  Society, 
and  Lady  Verney,  not  unknown  in  the  literary 
world,  is  the  sister  of  Florence  Nightingale.  I  hope 
I  do  not  violate  any  proprieties  when  such  details 
are  given.  My  object  is  to  show  how  the  hospitality 
which  we  are  enjoying,  introduces  us  into  the  heart 
of  a  society  of  which  England  may  well  be  proud, 
charming  alike  by  its  intelligence,  its  piety,  and  its 
charities.  We  have  been  moving  in  such  a  circle 
ever  since  we  set  foot  on  English  soil  at  Liverpool. 


SOCIAL  LIFE.  65 

The  other  aspect  of  these  experiences  will  show 
what  a  perpetual  and  delightful  study  of  history  we 
are  engaged  in.  We  are  conversing  here  with  the 
incidents  of  five  hundred  years,  which  cany  us  be- 
yond the  Long  Parliament.  We  see  a  portrait  of 
Charles  I.,  by  Van  Dyck,  in  the  drawing-room. 
Farnham  Castle  led  us  back  to  11 50.  Canterbury 
carried  us  to  600.  And  at  St.  Paul's  in  the  "  Amen 
corner,"  Canon  Gregory  showed  us  part  of  the 
Roman  wall  of  the  ancient  fortifications  of  the  Ro- 
man city  on  the  Thames,  in  the  days  of  the  Caesars. 

One  of  our  pleasant  afternoons  here  was  spent 
in  a  drive  across  the  "  downs ;  "  twelve  or  fifteen 
miles  continuous  driving  over  the  pasture  grounds 
of  the  several  farms  belonging  to  this  large  estate. 
Sir  Harry,  as  vigorous  as  if  he  had  not  seen  three- 
score, galloped  his  keen  gray  mare  hither  and 
thither  across  and  around  the  fields,  quite  unsatis- 
fied by  the  miles  which  we  were  measuring.  How 
fresh  and  vigorous  are  these  "  fine  old  English  gen- 
tlemen !  "  May  it  never  be  said  of  the  race,  they 
were  "  all  of  the  olden  time." 

From  Claydon  House  we  passed  to  Cuddcsdon, 
Wheatley,  where  we  are  the  guests 

CUDDF.SDON  ^j.  Lord  Bishop  of  Oxford. 

PALACE.  r 

His  brother  is  also  a  Bishop, — of 


66 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


Argyll  and  the  Isles — in  the  Scotch  Episcopal 
Church.  Cuddesdon  is  a  sweet,  quiet  retreat  in 
the  midst  of  a  thoroughly  agricultural  population. 
The  bustle  of  University  life  at  Oxford  seems  to 
be  far  away;  although  only  six  miles  off.  The 
Cowley  fathers  and  their  "head  centre,"  is  not 
more  than  five  miles  away,  just  in  the  outskirts  of 
Oxford.  Close  at  hand  is  YVilberforce  Theologi- 
cal College  (so  the  present  Bishop  calls  it),  the 
lasting  memorial,  not  alone  of  the  energy  and  per- 
sistency of  the  late  Bishop,  but  of  his  far-seeing 
conviction,  that  it  was  necessary  for  the  Church  of 
England  to  prepare  for  a  more  definite  and  whole- 
some education  of  her  ministers  than  the  Universi- 
ties would  give.  Alas !  that  his  foresight  has  been 
so  soon  realized.  Already  religious  tests  are  abol- 
ished at  the  University;  the  Fellows  (with  a  few 
exceptions)  may  be  Jews,  Turks,  Infidels,  or  Here- 
tics ;  and  it  is  a  debated  question  now  whether  a 
University  Theological  Professorship,  strictly  under 
Church  of  England  influence,  shall  be  permitted  ! 

Cuddesdon  College  stands  as  the 
IV I  LB  ERFOR  C E  : 

result  01    Bishop    \\  nberforce  s 
COLLEGE.  r 

foresight  of  a  necessity.  Theo- 
logical students  are  now  expected  to  gather  here 
for  preparation  for  orders.    One  year  is  the  rule. 


SOCIAL  LIFE. 


67 


Two  years  are  hoped  for.  But  they  have  not  yet 
reached  our  standard  of  three  years.  It  has  cer- 
tainly surprised  me,  as  it  will  surprise  you,  I  have 
no  doubt,  to  learn  that  the  training  given  here,  and 
in  other  like  theological  training-schools,  can  not 
compare  in  thoroughness  with  ours  in  Ohio,  or  in 
other  American  Theological  Seminaries. 

These  English  schools,  as  yet,  are  following  us  at 
a  distance.  We  must  take  care  that  if  they  over- 
take, as  I  hope  they  will,  they  shall  not  overpass  us 
in  thoroughness  of  instruction. 

A  costly  and  ornate  Chapel  has  been  erected 
under  the  present  Bishop,  as  a  memorial  of  his  pre- 
decessor. The  buildings  of  Wilberforce  College  are 
ecclesiastically  attractive ;  but  are  not  altogether 
as  well  suited  to  the  object  as  ours — Bexley  Hall 
for  example.  Yet  in  one  thing  they  have  a  great 
advantage  over  our  arrangements  and  our  system  ; 
for  the  students  board  together  in  commons,  and 
form  a  community  of  their  own. 


Bedell  preached  in  the  morning;  Bishop  Littlejohn 
in  the  afternoon — a  striking  sermon  on  the  "  King- 
dom of  God,"  and  its  actual  triumphs. 


TLIE  PARISLI 


CHURCH. 


On  Sunday  we  worshipped  in  the 
parish  church,  which  lies  close  to 
the  Garden  of  the  Palace.  Bishop 


63 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


The  congregation,  with  the  exception  of  the 
family  of  the  Bishop,  was  composed  of  the  agricult- 
ural classes.  I  was  grieved  to  see  so  few  men  at 
either  service ;  and  the  explanation  did  not  lighten 
the  sorrow.  For  Arch  and  his  followers  have  been 
poisoning  the  minds  of  the  working  classes,  and  es- 
pecially arraying  them  against  the  clergy.  No  one, 
who  is  not  in  the  midst  of  the  battle,  can  imagine 
in  what  various  forms,  and  from  how  many  differ- 
ent points,  the  attacks  of  infidelity  and  socialism 
are  now  directed  against  the  Gospel,  and  the 
Church  of  England. 


X. 


THE  LAMBETH  CONFERENCE— THE 
FINAL  SESSIONS. 

Lambeth. 

THE  final  sessions  of  the  Conference  at  Lambeth 
occupied  every  day  of  this  last  week  in  July,  1878. 
Monday  was  devoted  to  the  Colonial  Bishops.  It 
gave  them  an  opportunity  to  represent,  in  de- 
tail, the  condition,  peculiarities,  and  needs  of  their 
several  Dioceses.  From  Tuesday  morning  at  ten 
until  Friday  night  at  seven,  the  Conference  con- 
sidered and  acted  on  the  reports  of  Commit- 
tees. Of  course  entire  freedom  of  speech  was 
encouraged.  Considerable  difference  of  individ- 
ual opinion  appeared;  but  untrammelled  discus- 
sion, under  the  guidance  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  led 
to  entire  unanimity  of  action. 

On  the  second  day  of  the  first  ses- 
B/sriOP  LEE  s.ong^  Bishop  of  Delaware  ar- 
rived ;  and,  as  the  eldest  member  of  our  American 
Episcopate  present,  became  our  spokesman.  The 
presence  and  counsels  of  this  good  and  eminently 
wise  man  were  a  marked  comfort  to  us,  and  a  dis- 


((■9) 


70  THE  CA  N  VERB  URY  P1L  GRIM  A  GE. 

tinguished  service  to  the  Conference.  I  was  in 
a  position  to  hear  from  Prelates  their  opinion  of 
his  judgment ;  and  it  was  of  the  highest.  He 
spoke  seldom ;  only  when  appealed  to,  or  when 
an  obvious  necessity  had  arisen.  During  a  discus- 
sion of  moment,  I  remember,  that  after  many 
statements  and  opinions  had  been  expressed,  the 
Archbishop  of  Canterbury  turned  to  Bishop  Lee, 
and  said  we  should  be  very  glad  to  learn  what  the 
Bishop  of  Delaware  thinks.  Such  a  reference  to 
an  individual  opinion  was  seldom  made  during  the 
Conference ;  and  I  mention  it  as  indicating  the 
respect  which  was  paid  to  Bishop  Lee's  discreet- 
ness. 

"  Not  a  word  spake  he  more  than  was  nede  ; 
And  that  was  seyd  in  form  and  reverence, 
And  shore  and  quike,  and  ful  of  high  sentence, 
Souning  in  moral  vertue  was  his  speche." 

At  the  close,  it  was  in  order  for  the  highest 
dignitary,  or  the  eldest  Bishop,  of  the  several 
churches  to  express  his  sentiments  as  to  the  influ- 
ence of  the  Conference,  and  the  urbanity  and  tact 
of  the  presiding  Archbishop.  Certainly  none  of 
these  speeches  was  more  dignified,  graceful,  or 
weighty  than  that  of  Bishop  Lee.  It  made  a 
marked  impression. 


LAM  BE  T II  CONFERENCE— FINAL  SESSIONS,    y  i 


THE  PREACHER 
A  T  THE  CLOSE. 


The  Archbishop  of  Canterbury 
wished  that  one  of  the  Bishops 
from  the  United  States  should 


preach  the  sermon  at  the  close  of  the  Conference, 
but  left  the  appointment  of  preacher  for  their 
selection.  Bishop  Lee  was  unanimously  chosen  ; 
but  after  some  days'  reflection  he  declined  the 
honorable  task.  Then,  on  the  motion  of  Bishop 
Potter,  Bishop  Stevens  was  unanimously  selected. 
It  was  a  very  fitting  choice,  for,  besides  other  con- 
siderations, he  represents  the  venerated  White. 


completeness,  without  including  a  reference  to  the 
leading  part  taken  by  the  Presiding  Prelate.  The 
Archbishop's  power  as  organizer,  and  administrator, 
was  felt  on  every  hand,  and  at  every  moment. 
Without  assumption  of  authority,  yet  watchful, 
prompt  to  suggest  or  guide,  and  marvellously 
cautious  and  judicious,  much  of  the  harmony  that 
distinguished  all  our  discussions,  and  the  unanimity 
that  crowned  our  conclusions,  was  due,  under  God, 
to  his  skill ;  courteous,  urbane,  sympathetic,  and 
fraternal,  he  won  our  hearts. 

The  Dean  and  Chapter  of  St. 

CLOSING  SERVICE. 

Paul  s  placed  their  Cathedral 


THE  PRESIDENT. 


No  view  of  the  action  of  the 
Conference   could  approach 


72  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

at  the  service  of  the  Archbishop  of  the  Southern 
Province  and  the  Bishop  of  London,  for  the  closing 
solemnities  of  the  Conference.  They  accepted  the 
courtesy,  much  to  the  general  satisfaction.  The 
Dean  provided  that  all  honor  should  be  done  to  the 
occasion. 

The  Archbishop  requested  that  the  procession 
should  enter  the  great  west  door.  There  he  was 
met  by  the  Canons,  and  on  his  entrance,  the  pro- 
cession passed  up  the  nave,  through  a  throng  of 
thousands  of  people.  It  was  an  imposing  sight. 
Certainly  nothing  has  been  witnessed  like  it  in  the 
memory  of  the  present  St.  Paul's. 

Preceded  by  a  choir  of  fifty  men  and  boys,  in 
white  vestments,  and  by  all  the  Cathedral  clergy 
in  surplices,  ninety  Bishops,  gathered  from  every 
continent,  entered  the  church.  The  Bishop  of  Lon- 
don, and  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  closed  this 
remarkable  procession.  The  service  was  musical  ; 
beginning  with  a  Te  Drum,  after  which  the  Holy 
Communion  was  administered.   In  this 

THE 

administration,  both  Bishops  Lee  and 

SERVICE.  v 

Potter  took  part,  with  Metropolitans. 
The  Te  Deum  and  Trisagion  were  of  a  character 
to  elevate  every  emotion.  The  celebrated  organ- 
ist of  the  Cathedral  came  back  from  the  Paris 


LAMBETH  CONFERENCE— FINAL  SESSIONS.  73 

Exhibition,  expressly  to  be  present  for  the  day. 
No  one  could  mistake  his  skilful  renderings ;  and 
his  Hallelujah  chorus  at  the  end,  given  by  the 
organ  alone,  realized  thoroughly  that  sublime  con- 
ception of  the  choiring  of  angels,  and  the  white- 
robed  throng,  in  heaven. 

The  sermon  was  worthy  of 
BISHOP  STEVENS'     ,  .  T>.  , 

the  occasion.     Bishop  Ste- 
SERMON.  _  r 

vens  spoke  with  boldness, 
force,  and  wisdom.  His  suggestions  were  timely. 
His  style,  always  musical,  was  peculiarly  nervous 
and  classical.  His  illustrations  were  nevermore  apt. 

He  showed  the  unity  of  the  Church,  and  the 
power  which  it  is  possible  to  develop  by  appreciat- 
ing that  unity.  He  alluded  to  the  possibility  that 
England  might  profit  by  the  experience  of  the  Irish 
Church,  the  Church'  in  the  United  States,  and 
many  of  the  Colonial  Churches,  in  introducing  lay- 
men into  their  Ecclesiastical  Councils.  He  spoke 
of  the  necessity  of  mutual  forbearance,  whilst  main- 
taining unity  in  essentials  of  the  faith.  He 
prophesied,  not  without  reason,  in  the  language  of 
Milton,  the  future  glories  of  the  Church  of  En- 
gland. And  in  closing,  he  paid  a  warm  tribute  of 
gratitude  to  the  members  of  that  Church,  for  their 
unbounded  brotherly  hospitality. 
4 


74  THE  CA  N  TERB  UR  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 

I  think  it  will  be  pronounced  by  all  who  read  it, 
a  most  fitting,  powerful,  and  eloquent  discourse. 

As  the  Bishops  gathered  round  the  Archbishop 
in  the  vestry,  after  service,  for  a  final  leave-taking, 
he  publicly  thanked  Bishop  Stevens  for  his  sermon, 
and  requested  a  copy  for  deposit  among  the  archives 
of  the  Conference,  and  for  publication.  Then 
with  his  good-bye  terminated  the  Lambeth  Con- 
ference of  A.D.  1878. 


XI. 


DOINGS  OF  THE  CONFERENCE. 

Lambeth. 

Of  course  it  will  not  be  possible  to  enter  into 
details  of  the  Conference  in  such  a  paper  as  this. 
They  will  soon  be  published  under  the  authority 
of  our  President,  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury. 
Nor  is  it  quite  time,  nor  will  it  be,  until  the  Church 
has  read  the  official  record  of  those  doings,  to  give 
even  an  individual  estimate  of  the  influence  of  the 
Conference.  I  confine  myself,  therefore,  in  this 
paper  to  the  acts  of  these  hundred  Bishops. 

The    subjects   agreed   upon,  pre- 

THE  MODE.  ,  . 

viously  to  the  meeting,  were  dis- 
cussed in  their  order;  four  days  being  given  to  the 
six  topics,  in  the  first  week  of  July.  Each  subject 
was  introduced  by  written  or  extempore  speeches, 
from  speakers  appointed  several  days  before,  so 
that  the  main  points  were  distinctly  opened  at  the 
commencement  of  each  debate  ;  and  thereby  not 
only  was  debate  legitimately  confined,  but  the  sub- 
ject was  clearly  comprehended.    Each  topic  was 

(75) 


76  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

handed  to  a  large  committee  at  the  close  of  the 
debate.  These  committees  comprised  representa- 
tives of  all  the  Churches  within  the  Anglican  com- 
munion ;  our  own  Church  having  from  one  to  four 
members  in  each  committee,  except  in  the  Com- 
mittee on  Boards  of  Arbitration,  which  did  not  in 
any  way  concern  us.  During  the  succeeding  two 
weeks  these  committees  reconsidered  the  subject 
presented,  and  arrived  at  conclusions. 

During  the  last  week  in  July,  the  Conference 
met  for  five  days  ;  received  the  reports  of  commit- 
tees in  order ;  heard  all  suggestions  without  de- 
bate ;  and  returned  the  subjects  to  committees  for 
final  revision.  The  final  report  of  each  committee 
was  acted  on  as  a  whole. 

I  think  you  will  perceive  by  this  statement  that 
due  deliberation  was  secured  ;  that  the  freest  op- 
portunity was  sdven  for  an  ex- 

CONCLUSIONS.  .        ,  „  7 

pression  of  all  views  ;  that  ample 

comparison  of  opinions  took  place  ;  and  that  the 

conclusions  reached  may  fairly  be  said  to  represent 

the  mind  of  this  great  assembly. 

I.  The  best  mode  of  maintaining  union 
UNITY.  .  _ 

among  the  various  Churches  of  the  An- 
glican Communion. 

The  principles  of  the  existing  unity  were  care- 


DOINGS  OF  THE  CONFERENCE. 


77 


fully  stated.  The  elements  of  lawful  diversity- 
were  as  carefully  described.  A  general  council  or 
synod  was  deemed  impossible,  in  the  present  state 
of  the  Church  ;  but  it  was  deemed  desirable  that, 
at  intervals,  a  Conference  should  be  held  ;  it  was 
recognized  as  of  great  importance,  that  the  duly 
certified  action  of  each  particular,  or  national 
Church,  should  be  respected  by  all  ;  that  Diocesan 
authority  should  not  be  interfered  with  by  other 
Bishops,  and  that  Letters  Dimissory  should  be  in 
general  use.  Under  particular  suggestions,  the 
subject  of  a  Day  of  Intercession  was  considered ; 
and  Tuesday  before  Ascension  Day,  being  a  Roga- 
tion Day,  or  any  one  of  the  seven  days  following, 
was  fixed  upon.  Also  an  important  utterance  was 
made  on  the  subject  of  "  Diversities  in  Worship  ; " 
for  which  I  refer  to  the  official  paper. 


an  arrangement  may  be  applicable. 

As  this  subject  is  of  no  particular  interest 
to  our  Church,  to  which  it  does  not  apply  at  all, 
I  need  not  allude  to  the  conclusions  of  the  Con- 
ference. 


ARBITRATION. 


2.  Voluntary  Boards  of  Arbitra- 
tion for  Churches  to  which  such 


MISSIONS. 


3.  The  relation  to  each  other  of  Mis- 
sionary Bishops,  and  Missionaries  of 


78  THE  CA  X  TERB  UR  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 

various  branches  of  the  Anglican  Communion  acting 
in  the  same  country. 

On  this  subject  I  took  a  part  in  the  deliberation, 
and  felt  a  deep  interest.  It  was  that  to  which  I 
alluded  when  last  addressing  our  Convention.  And 
I  am  happy  to  say,  that  the  conclusions  of  the  Con- 
ference are  very  satisfactory.    In  general  they  are — 

1.  That  our  Anglican  Missionaries,  when  acting 
near  each  other  among  the  heathen,  shall  arrange  a 
Book  of  Common  Prayer,  which  may  be  used  by  all. 

2.  That  such  Books,  and  all  Versions  of  the 
Book  of  Common  Prayer  intended  for  Missionary 
use,  before  being  considered  as  authorized,  shall  be 
submitted  to  a  Board  sitting  in  England,  and  a 
Board  (to  be  appointed  by  our  General  Conven- 
tion) sitting  in  the  United  States. 

3.  That  if  possible,  hereafter,  the  sending  of 
Bishops  to  posts  already  occupied  by  either  Church, 
shall  be  avoided  by  every  other;  the  object  being 
(as  I  conceive)  both  to  avoid  conflicts  of  jurisdic- 
tion and  waste  of  material. 

These  suggestions,  if  acted  on,  will,  as  it  appears 
to  me,  sufficiently  vindicate  the  wisdom  of  calling 
together  this  meeting  of  Bishops,  and  sufficiently 
reward  all  of  us  for  the  expenditure  of  time  and 
money,  in  attending  the  Conference. 


DOINGS  OF  THE  CONFERENCE.  79 

4.    The   position    of  Anglican 
CHAPLAINCIES.  and  Chaplaincies  on 

the  Continent  of  Europe  and  elsewhere. 

On  this  topic  the  Bishop  of  Gibraltar  and  the 
Bishop  of  Long  Island,  who  are  respectively  in 
charge  of  the  chaplaincies  of  our  two  Churches  on 
the  Continent,  conferred  freely ;  and  with  the  ad- 
vice of  the  Committee,  and  Conference,  some  im- 
portant results  were  reached.  American  and  En- 
glish chaplains  in  charge  of  voluntary  congrega- 
tions were  recognized  as  of  equal  right,  when  the 
congregations  consist  of  persons  from  both  na- 
tions. Sympathy  was  expressed  for  the  move- 
ments in  Spain,  and  in  Mexico,  toward  Reform 
within  the  limits  of  Apostolic  Doctrine  and 
Order. 

5.   The  nature  of  modern  sccpti- 
SCEPT1CISM.      .  ,     .     .    .        ,      ,  M. 

asm,  and  the  best  mode  of  meet- 
ing it. 

This  important  topic  was  ably  discussed.  More 
than  one  Bishop  has  said,  both  privately  and  pub- 
licly, that  it  was  worth  while  for  one  to  cross  the  At- 
lantic, or  come  from  Australia,  to  listen  to  this  de- 
bate. But  no  doubt  the  Church  will  be  disappointed 
to  learn  that  no  report  on  this  momentous  subject 
could  be  given  by  the  Conference.    Not  that  there 


8o 


THE  CA  X  TERB  UR  V  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 


was  the  slightest  difference  of  opinion,  for  there  was 
none  ;  not  that  any  fear  was  expressed  of  the  preva- 
lence or  serious  result  of  these  new  developments 
of  infidelity,  for  there  was  neither ;  but  simply  be- 
cause it  was  impossible,  in  the  brief  time  allowed,  to 
prepare  an  utterance  that  could  satisfy.  It  is  not 
unlikely  that  some  of  the  papers,  and  perhaps  the 
masterly  speech  of  the  Bishop  of  Killaloe,  and  one 
or  two  other  papers,  may  be  revised  by  their 
authors  and  given  to  the  Church.  A  resolution  was 
passed,  but  will  not  appear  in  the  proceedings, 
suggesting  that  competent  persons  should  take  this 
grave  subject  in  hand.  Many  members  of  the 
Conference  felt,  what  we  have  felt  in  the  United 
States,  that  a  book  was  yet  to  be  written,  and  was 
needed,  which  should  place  before  the  minds  of 
young  students  the  precise  forms  of  modern  objec- 
tions, together  with  the  precise  answer  to  each  ob- 
jection. YVe  are  not  without  hope  that  one  result 
of  our  Conference  will  be  the  production  of  such  a 
book.  There  were  men  in  the  Library  of  Lambeth 
in  July,  who  are  entirely  competent  to  grapple 
with  this  vitally  important  subject,  and  who,  under 
the  pressure  of  that  discussion,  and  with  the  sense 
of  responsibility  then  developed,  may  be  induced 
to  undertake  the  task. 


DOIiVGS  OF  THE  CONFERENCE. 


81 


6.  A  committee  to  receive  questions 
GENERAL.        ,     .  ,  . 

submitted  to  them  in  writing  by  Bish- 
ops desiring  the  advice  of  the  Conference. 

Under  this  head  a  committee  suggested  action 
on  several  topics  : — The  Old  Catholics  ;  The  Ar- 
menians ;  The  position  of  the  Moravian  Church  ; 
The  provincial  organization  of  the  West  Indian 
Dioceses  ;  The  Church  in  Haiti  ;  A  Board  of  Ref- 
erence concerning  Foreign  Missions  ;  Ritual ;  En- 
forced Confession. 

As  to  the  first  five  topics,  general  sympathy  was 
expressed  ;  but,  referring  to  the  errors  against  which 
the  Old  Catholics  protest,  particular  sympathy  was 
uttered,  and  a  noble,  clear,  and  outspoken  declara- 
tion was  made  against  Roman  assumptions.  A 
Board  on  Foreign  Missions  was  suggested,  to  be 
formed  by  consultation  between  the  authorities  of 
our  several  Churches.  As  to  Ritual,  and  Enforced 
particular  Confession,  an  utterance  was  given  which 
will  reassure  all  loyal  hearts. 

It  was  decided  not  to  issue  an  Encyclical  Letter. 
I  am  the  more  express  in  this  statement  because 
the  Times,  not  often  inaccurate,  states  that  such  a 
Letter  was  issued,  and  gives  the  particulars.  It  is 
a  mistake.  The  Times,  however,  has  an  important 
editorial  on  the  Conference  which  ought  to  be  cir- 
4* 


82 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILCRIMACE. 


culated  in  our  country.  As  the  Times  always 
regards  the  direction  of  the  wind  of  public  opinion, 
you  may  take  it  for  granted  that  on  this  side  of  the 
Atlantic,  the  Conference  is  regarded  as  a  marked 
event,  and  an  accomplished  success. 


XII. 


SALISBURY. 

From  my  quaint  old  English  window  in  the 
Bishop's  Palace,  Salisbury  Cathedral  is  seen  in  all 
its  glorious  beauty.  It  is  difficult  to  make  com- 
parison when  each  object  is  unique,  and  although 
all  belong  to  the  same  class,  yet  each  possesses 
some  features  separating  it  from  all  the  rest,  and 
intrinsically  attractive.  But  my  impressions  formed 
thirty  years  ago,  are  strengthened  by  this  view  to- 
day, and  I  place  Salisbury  Cathedral,  for  all  in  all, 
in  its  exterior  attractions,  as  first.  What  is  rare — it 
has  a  double  transept ;  and  also  a  perfect  Chapter- 
house, and  Lady  Chapel.  These  last  are  frequently, 
but  not  invariably  found.  They  belong  to  the  most 
ancient  structures ;  and  this  Cathedral  dates  back 
to  A.D.  1250.  All  these  buildings  are  in  the  old 
English  form  of  Gothic  ;  and  out  of  the  midst  of 
the  group  rises  a  richly  ornamented  tower,  crowned 
by  a  spire  piercing  the  heavens.  I  know  of  no 
group  so  perfect  ;  nor  any  ^pire  which,  in  its  pro- 
portions and  ornament,  seems  so  near  to  abso- 

(83) 


84  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

lute  perfection.  Then,  besides,  it  has  a  noble 
cloister;  very  large,  with  all  its  clusters  of  columns 
entire.  Above  all,  this  majestic  group  of  buildings 
is  situated  in  a  large  open  park,  on  which  the  town 
has  not  encroached  ;  and  from  every  point  of  it, 
except  on  the  south-east  (the  side  of  the  Bishop's 
Palace),  one  may  get  a  distinct  view  of  all  its  main 
features ;  and  while  lingering  on  each,  may  yet 
always  terminate  the  vision  with  this  heavenward 
enticing  spire. 

The  interior  of  the  Cathedral  is  still  in  process 
of  renewal.  The  coating,  which  time  and  ill  taste 
had  given  to  the  columns,  is  being  taken  off,  and  the 
rich  marbles  are  brought  out  again,  and  polished. 
The  coloring  of  the  Lady  Chapel  does  not  please 
my  eye.  That  of  the  choir  is  graver  and  softer.  But 
as  in  both  cases  the  coloring  is  somewhat  of  an  ex- 
periment, it  is  too  soon  to  speak  of  the  ultimate 
effect.  The  screen  or  reredos  behind  the  Lord's 
Table  is  of  alabaster.  You  have  already  seen  a  de- 
scription of  it — fortunately,  for  it  is  entirely  "beyond 
the  power  of  my  pen.  The  design  is  to  represent 
the  principal  figures  of  the  Crucifixion.  In  the 
centre  panel  is  the  figure  of  our  Lord  on  the  cross ; 
and  on  one  side  is  the  mother  of  our  Lord,  on 
the  other  St.  John.    "  On  either  side  are  canopied 


SALISBURY.  85 

niches ;    in  one,  the  two  Marys ;    in  the  other, 

Joseph  of  Arimathea  and  the   good  centurion. 

Over  the  central  figure  is  an  arch,  in  which  is  the 

richest  foliage  intertwined  with  figures  of  angels. 

And  above  is  a  bold  crocheted  gable,  carrying 

angels  on  pedestals,  terminated  by  a  grand  finial, 

out  of  which  rises  a  richly-carved  cross."  The 

carving  is  delicate,  beyond  anything  which  I  have 

seen.    It  is  the  gift  of  Earl  Beauchamp.    The  cost, 

$9,000,  will  give  some  idea  of  the  richness  of  art 

which  is  crowded  into  this   space,  22  x  14  feet. 

Beautiful — but  it  verges  too  much  on  what  one 

sees  in  Romish  churches  on  the  continent. 

The  Bishop's  Palace  is  close  to  the 

SALISBURY   Cathedral,  opening  on  the  same 
PALACE. 

beautiful  park.  It  is  nearly  as  old 
as  the  Cathedral  itself,  and  the  more  ancient  parts 
form  one  of  those  old  wandering  houses  which  are 
my  delight — not  less  delightful  in  this  respect, 
although  less  quaint,  than  the  deanery  at  Canter- 
bury. Here  the  venerable  and  beloved  occupant 
of  the  See,  Dr.  Moberly,  so  long  Head-Master  at 
Winchester,  dispenses  most  pleasant  hospitality, 
in  the  midst  of  a  charming  family.  He  retains  his 
visor  of  thought  and  action  as  well  as  his  noted 
gentleness  of  disposition.    The  garden  near  the 


86 


THE  CANTERB  UR  Y  P1L  GRIM  A  GE. 


house  is  laid  out  in  the  Italian  style.  On  the 
further  side,  a  little  stream  goes  wandering  slowly; 
and  beyond  it,  crossing  by  rustic  bridges,  you  find 
a  pleasant  mead,  and  groups  of  old  gnarled  oaks. 
These  are  refreshing  spots  for  wearied  Bishops. 


perience  as  a  teacher,  his  Theological  College  is  in 
every  respect  convenient  and  attractive  for  students. 
Unfortunately  for  me,  it  was  not  term  time. 


It  is  said  to  be  the  most  perfect  specimen  extant. 
As  it  has  been  so  often  described  by  travellers,  I 
will  not  inflict  on  you  a  delineation  of  this  monu- 
ment of  a  past  religion,  standing  as  unknown  in  the 
records  of  time,  as  it  is  alone  and  desolate  on  the 
unbroken  heath  of  Salisbury  hills. 

As  we  were  driving,  the  Bishop  pointed  out,  on 
a  hill  to  the  right,  the  site  of  the  earliest  Cathedral 
and  Abbacy  of  Salisbury.  For  a  long  time  it  was 
regularly  fortified  by  the  monks,  and  was  a  strong- 
hold ;  and  as  the  lines  of  fortification  are  still  visi- 
ble from  a  long  distance,  it  seems  singular  that 


THEOLOGICAL 
SCHOOL. 


SALISBURY 


The  Bishop  showed  me  his  build- 
ings for  a  Diocesan  Divinity 
School.  They  are  admirably  ar- 
ranged.  Profiting  on  his  own  ex- 


STONE-HENGE. 


The  Bishop  drove  with  us  to 
see   the  famous  Druid  Circle. 


SALISBURY. 


8/ 


they  have  been  so  seldom  noticed  or  commented 
on  by  travellers  visiting  Salisbury.  At  a  later  day 
the  monks  moved  into  Salisbury  plain,  and  built 
the  present  church  on  the  banks  of  the  river. 

The  Bishop  also  took  us  to  see  dear  Old  Her- 
bert's Church,  and  Parsonage. 


hold  forty  persons  if  they  sat  close  to  one  another. 
And  here  the  good  old  man  would  come  often,  and 
lock  himself  in,  to  be  alone  with  God.  Near  the 
church,  where  he  used  to  minister  the  bread  of  life 
to  the  few  villagers  who  waited  on  his  wise  and 
gentle  words,  is,  what  I  have  never  seen  elsewhere, 
the  "lepers  window."  In  days  long  before  Her- 
bert, the  lepers  of  the  parish  used  to  come  there,  to 
receive  the  elements  at  the  administration  of  the 
Sacrament.  It  was  probably  as  long  ago  as  in  the 
days  of  the  Crusades ;  for  it  can  not  be  conceived 
that  leprosy  was  known  in  England,  except  as  hav- 
ing been  brought  back  from  the  Eastern  wars,  in 
the  train  of  those  renowned  marauders.  This  win- 
dow is  within  the  chancel,  opening  from  it,  through 
the  church  wall,  out  into  the  road.  Here  the  min- 
ister, when  dispensing  the  sacred  elements  to  his 


THE  COUNTRY 


PARSON. 


Bemerton  Church  is  probably  the 
smallest,  if  not  the  quaintest, 
church   in    England.     It  might 


88 


THE  CANTERBURY  TILGRIMAGE. 


"  whole  "  people,  could  also,  without  endangering 
these,  pass  the  consecrated  bread  to  the  poor  lepers 
on  the  outside.  I  have  seen  no  other  such  arrange- 
ment, except  in  the  Coptic  Cathedral  at  Cairo,  where, 
through  a  small  window  opening  from  the  chancel 
into  the  baptistery,  the  priest  placed  a  portion  of 
the  consecrated  biscuit  dipped  in  wine  on  the  tongue 
of  an  infant,  whom  he  had  just  previously  baptized. 

The  rector  kindly  sent  over  to  us  an  invitation 
to  visit  the  rectory  garden,  which  is  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  road  from  Bemerton  Church.  Here 
Herbert  used  to  meditate,  and,  without  doubt,  also 

to  angle.    For  at  the  foot  of  one 
THE  N ADDER.  " 

of  the  sweetest  of  English  lawns 

runs,  through  a  shady  aisle  of  drooping  trees,  the 
cool  and  shallow  Nadder,  which  goes  hurrying 
along  over  the  pebbles  to  join  the  Avon ;  and  in 
many  a  hollow  of  it  trout  still  hide.  What  a 
contrast  to  London !  The  quiet  "  calm  retreat," 
provoking  meditation  and  leading  to  devotion ; 
what  a  precious  boon  to  wearied,  toil-worn  par- 
sons !  No  wonder  that  Herbert  could  tell  so 
sweet  and  calm  a  story  of  pastoral  care. 

The  Nadder  is  Anglo-Saxon  for  adder,  and  the 
Bishop  of  Salisbury  thinks  that  the  name  was  given 
to  the  stream,  because  of  its  serpentine  course. 


XIII. 


THE  BERLIN  TREATY. 

London. 

DURING  the  last  days  of  the  Conference  at 
Lambeth  occurred  that  extraordinary  Conference 
at  Berlin,  which  issued  in  Disreali's  master  stroke 
of  policy. 

It  was  my  good  fortune  to  witness 
PREMIER'S      .  ,      .  .  ,        ,  .  , 

vvmyrT^KT    tne   enthusiasm   with   which  the 

fit.  Lr.r  1  IVJy . 

Premier  was  received  on  his  re- 
turn to  London.  We  were  in  the  city,  happily,  on 
that  day,  and  I  walked  out  to  the  neighborhood  of 
the  Horse  Guards  to  see  the  crowds,  and,  if  possi- 
ble, to  see  the  hero  who  had  conquered  peace 
without  a  battle.  Finding  the  crowd  impenetra- 
ble, I  turned  up  a  narrow  street  which  was  less 
crowded,  thinking  to  make  my  way  round  to  the 
monument  at  Waterloo  Place.  But  as  I  went  on, 
I  began  to  realize  that  I  was  in  most  distinguished 
company,  and  soon  found  that  I  had  entered  Down- 
ing street  without  knowing  it,  and  that  the  police 
were  mistaking  me  for  some  one  who  had  the  entree. 
So  I  stood  opposite  the  door  of  the  Premier's  abode, 

(89) 


90  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

where  in  a  few  minutes  he  alighted  from  his  carriage, 
amidst  cheers  on  cheers  rolling  up  from  the  crowd 
outside  of  the  street,  and  repeated  to  the  echo  by 
the  Parliamentarians  who  were  near  his  house. 
He  looked  wearied,  pale,  and  agitated,  but  one 
could  trace  through  the  lines  of  care,  those  pe- 
culiar  lines   which    indicate    policy,  resolution, 

LORD  BEACONSFIELD,  ^  """^     ^  in  thiS 

THE  reticent  moment  of  triumph  there 
was  no  sign  of  exultation  ; 
hardly  a  smile,  but  an  appearance  of  inward 
questioning  as  to  what  the  future  would  bring 
forth.  In  a  few  moments  he  appeared  at  the 
window.  It  was  at  least  five  minutes  before  the 
enthusiastic  multitude  would  stop  cheering  long 
enough  to  hear  him.  He  stood  there  with  that 
same  air  of  constraint,  evidently  pleased,  scarcely 
smiling,  seeming  to  be  hiding  some  thought,  and 
deciding  to  speak  only  part  of  what  was  revolving 
within  his  mind.  At  last  there  was  a  momentary 
hush.    He  said  :  "  We  bring  you  peace  !  " 

Perhaps  you  can  imagine  how  those  words  ex- 
cited the  crowd.  Such  a  burst  of  cheers  one  sel- 
dom hears.  Five  minutes  passed,  and  then  a  hush. 
"  My  colleague  and  I  bring  you  peace ;  we  trust 
with  honor."    That  was  enough  to  set  the  whole 


THE  BERLIN  TREATY.  91 

crowd  in  motion  again.  It  was  very  dramatic. 
No  words  could  have  been  more  fitting,  and  of 
course  he  chose  those  that  were  the  fittest ;  for  he 
is  a  master  of  language. 

You  have  seen  the  rest  of  the  speech,  and  the 
few  admirable  sentences  which  followed  from  his 
noble  colleague.  Nothing  could  have  been  con- 
ceived in  better  taste,  and  nothing  could  have  car- 
ried  the  enthusiasm  of  the  multitude  to  a  higher 
pitch.  In  half  an  hour  the  mass  of  the  lower  ranks 
of  people  began  to  hustle  the  police,  and  as  usual 
to  break  down  the  fences.  Like  a  prudent  man  I 
did  not  wait  to  see  the  issue.  However,  the  papers 
say  no  harm  was  done,  for  it  was  a  good-natured 
English  crowd. 

The  policy  of  the  treaty  has  undergone  a  thor- 
ough examination  since  that  day  in  Parliament, 
and  its  popularity  is  evident.  A  vast  majority  ap- 
prove it,  but  some  of  the  soberest  men  among  the 
laity  shake  their  heads,  and  doubt  whether  it  has 
not  brought  a  certain  war,  after  a  temporary  peace. 
My  belief  is  that  the  treaty  has  destroyed  the 
power  of  Turkey  in  Europe,  under  the  guise  of  sus- 
taining the  Sultan. 

All  students  of  prophecy  have  been  looking  for 
this  result.    It  has  come  about  in  a  most  unex- 


g2  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

pected  manner,  just  as  all  Divine  orderings  seem  to 

disappoint  human  prognostications. 

As  in  1866  w  e  were  looking  for  the  destruction 

of  the  temporal  power  of  the  Pope,  and  it  came, 

not  as  we  expected,  but  surely,  by  a  blow  from 

which  the  temporal  power  has  never  re- 
ROME.  r  r 

covered,  so  in  these  days,  we  were  looking 

for  the  destruction  of  the  Mohammedan  power  in 
Europe.  And  it  has  come,  not  by  the  entering  of 
Russia  into  Constantinople,  but  by  an  unexpected 
and  much  more  significant  "  drying  up "  of  the 
Mohammedan  vitality,  from  which  it  can  never  re- 
cover. For  no  one  supposes  that  England,  having 
once  put  her  foot  on  Cyprus,  will  ever  withdraw  it. 
And  no  one  supposes  that  England's  protectorate 
over  the  Christians  in  Turkey,  means  anything  else 
than  the  gradual  expulsion  of  the  Turks  ;  for  Mo- 
hammedanism and  Christianity  have  not  mingled 
in  1,200  years,  and  are  as  incapable  of  mixture 
as  oil  and  water.  I  doubt  whether  the  majority 
of  our  political  thinkers  will  approve  of  the  treaty. 
But  I  approve  it  heartily,  because  it  accomplishes 
that  which  it  seemed  to  have  been  written  to  pre- 
vent, that  is,  the  gradual  driving  out  of  Europe  of 
the  intruding  Turks,  and  the  gradual  extinction  of 
the  Mohammedan  Empire.    And  yet  again,  in  a 


THE  BERLIN  TREATY.  93 

very  unexpected  manner,  it  accomplishes  prophecy, 
and  proves,  what  of  course  no  Christian  has  ever 
doubted,  that  "  The  Lord  reigneth ;  be  the  people 
never  so  impatient." 

As  to  political  prospects,  one  hardly  dares  to 
venture  an  opinion.  It  is  evident  that  there  will 
be  a  reaction  in  the  public  mind  of  the  Angli- 
can Empire  when  the  people  see  what  tremendous 
responsibilities  have  been  assumed,  and  what  an 
enormous  increase  will  be  given  to  the  budget.  It 
is  doubted  whether  the  reaction  will  be  favorable 
to  the  Liberals  ;  for  they  have  lost  ground  by  not 
displaying  an  alternative  policy.  It  will  possibly 
destroy  the  present  Government ;  but  if  so,  a  third 
party,  at  present  unknown,  will  take  the  reins. 
Such  are  some  of  the  prognostications  of  those 
who  are  thought  to  be  wise. 


XIV. 


THE  FARNHAM  CONSULTATION. 

Farnham  Castle. 
A  SIGNIFICANT  meeting  was  held  on  the  31st  of 
July,  at  Farnham  Castle,  under  the  auspices  of 
the  Anglo-Catholic  Society.  Although  nominally 
a  gathering  of  that  Society,  under  the  presidency 
of  the  Bishop  of  Winchester,  it  was  really  a  Con- 
ference between  the  Bishops,  and  others  who  are 
most  interested  in  the  Old  Catholic  movement, 
with  Bishop  Herzog,  who  represented  that  move- 
ment, and  with  Pere  Hyacinthe. 

The  Bishop  is  the  head  of  the  Swiss  Old 
Catholics,  and  was  also  authorized  to  speak  in 
behalf  of  Bishop  Reinkens  for  the  German  Old 
Catholics.  Fere  Hyacinthe  represented  himself 
and  a  prospective  Old  Catholic  Church  in  France. 
It  can  hardly  be  said  that  this  movement  has  yet 
made  a  serious  impression  among  the  French. 
Under  his  preaching,  by  God's  blessing,  there  is 
good  reason  for  the  belief  that  the  movement  will 
proceed  with  vigor.  About  twenty  Bishops  met 
these  representative  men.  Of  our  own  number  were 
(94) 


THE  FARNIIAM  CONSULTATION. 


95 


present,  Bishops  Lee,  Stevens,  Coxe,  Kerfoot,  Lit- 
tlejohn,  Doane,  Lyman,  Scarborough,  Spalding, 
and  Bedell.  The  Primus  of  Scotland,  the  Bishop 
of  Lichfield,  the  Bishop  of  Gibraltar,  and  the  Bishop 
of  Meath,  with  several  Colonial  Bishops,  and  the 
Bishop  of  Haiti,  were  present.  Also  Rev.  Messrs. 
Nevins,  Drs.  Alfred  Lee,  Hogg,  and  May,  and  many 
others  of  influence.  Letters  of  regret  for  absence 
were  read  from  Bishop  Reinkens,  Professor  Dol- 
linger,  Professor  Von  Schulte,  and  the  Armenian 
Patriarch. 

The  speech  of  Bishop  Coxe  at 

BISHOP  COXE. 

the  opening  of  the  meeting  I  did 
not  hear,  inasmuch  as  we  could  not  arrive  from 
Salisbury  until  late.  It  was  said  to  have  been 
worthy  of  him  and  of  the  occasion,  which  is  saying 
much.  It  introduced  the  foreign  delegates,  and 
the  subject  which  had  led  to  so  grave  an  assem- 
blage. No  doubt  it  was  eloquent  in  feeling,  and 
sparkling  with  the  brilliancy  of  his  genius;  for  his 
heart  and  judgment  both  are  fully  alive  to  the  im- 
portance of  these  movements  for  Reform,  within 
the  Latin  Churches. 


OLD  CA  THOLIC 
BISHOP  HERZOG. 


We  heard  Bishop  Herzog.  I 
was  surprised  to  see  so  young 
a  man  in  appearance ;  but  he 


g6  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

is  youthful  only  in  his  remarkable  energy ;  for  he 
is  a  man  of  large  experience  and  calm  judgment. 
He  spoke  in  French,  which,  not  being  his  native 
tongue,  he  does  not  use  with  the  same  freedom  as 
the  German.  The  points  of  greatest  moment  in 
his  speech  were  these  : 

I.  The  progress  of  the  move- 
MOVEMENT,  ™ent  in  Switzerland.  The  whole 
population  is  2,500,000.  About 
1,000,000  were  Roman  Catholics.  Already  nearly 
90,000  have  become  Old  Catholics ;  which,  in  this 
case,  means  Reformed  Catholics.  For,  as  you  will 
see  below,  the  tenets  of  these  Old  Catholics  are 
quite  in  harmony  with  our  own.  I  suppose  that  in 
all  Ohio  we  have  not  more  than  50,000  Protestant 
Episcopalians.  But  the  Swiss  Old  Catholics  are 
already  90,000.  Here  is  a  fact  worthy  of  our  re- 
flection ;  and  the  figures  enable  us  at  once  to  realize 
the  extent  of  the  movement  in  Switzerland.  He 
has  confirmed  4,000  in  the  course  of  the  year. 

2.   The  Doctrines  affirmed.  He 
DOCTRINE.  ,    ,  .  .  . 

stated  that  compulsory  confession 

was  abolished,  and  communion  in  both  kinds  per- 
mitted ;  and  that  this  latter  practice  would  be  im- 
mediately introduced  into  the  churches  of  Geneva 
and  of  Chaud  de  Fonds.    "  On  the  doctrine  of 


THE  FARNHAM  CONSULTATION. 


97 


the  Lord's  Supper  we  do  not  differ,"  he  said ;  "  we 
do  not  recognize  a  chemical  'ransubstantiation, 
and  we  fully  admit  the  doctrine  of  the  Anglican 
Church  on  this  head."  When,  a  day  or  two  after- 
ward, I  read  his  noble  charge  on  the  topic  of  the 
Holy  Spirit's  Presence  in  the  Church,  I  understood 
more  clearly  the  intensity  of  meaning  in  those 
phrases.  He  holds,  as  our  Church  does,  that  the 
Holy  Ghost  is  the  only  Vicegerent  of  Christ  in  the 
Church,  and  that  His  grace  alone  gives  efficacy  to 
sacraments  and  ordinances.  You  will  perhaps  re- 
member a  Charge  on  that  subject,  delivered  by 
the  Bishop  of  Ohio.  When  I  say  that  Bishop 
Hcrzog's  views  seem  to  me  quite  parallel  with 
those  in  essential  truths,  you  will  not  wonder  that 
my  heart  was  drawn  toward  him,  and  that  I 
greeted  him  as  a  brother  beloved.  Such  views  are 
fatal  to  all  the  errors  of  Romanism  ;  and  those  who 
hold  them  are  Old  Catholics  indeed — as  old  in  the 
faith,  as  the  Church  of  the  first  three  centuries,  and 
the  Apostles. 

3.  He  stated  that  the  stories  were 
FELLOWSHIP.    .  ,  .  ,  ,         ,  •  ,  , 

incorrect  which  have  been  widely 

circulated  by  Roman  hands,  as  to  a  schism  among 

the  Old  Catholics  in  Germany,  on  account  of  the 

synodal  decision  at  Bonn  in  favor  of  the  marriage 

S 


98 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


of  priests.  Only  two  professors  had  withdrawn  ; 
no  one  else.  The  story  of  an  excommunication 
by  the  Dutch  Church  was  also  incorrect  ;  for  it 
was  found  that  the  Bishop  of  Utrecht  had  ex- 
pressed himself,  without  the  authority  of  his  brother 
Bishops.  Bishop  Herzog  is  modest  and  unassum- 
ing. He  speaks  with  dignity,  great  calmness,  pre- 
cision, and  force.    He  is  evidently  a  leader. 


a  leader,  and  is  not  generally  supposed  to  possess 
the  peculiar  power  of  organizing  a  great  move- 
ment. He  understands  these  elements  of  his 
character,  and  attempts  to  be  only  a  preacher. 
Great  in  this  line,  wonderfully  eloquent,  he  will 
move  the  masses  at  last.  His  speech  was  so  rapid, 
that  it  was  difficult  to  follow  him.  It  announced 
only  great  principles,  but  contained  other  salient 
facts.  Pere  Hyacinthe  is  earnest  in  protesting 
against  the  errors  of  Rome ;  but  his  own  views  do 
not  seem  as  yet  to  be  solidified.  The  most  in- 
teresting fact  concerning  him  and  his  movement, 
was  stated  to  me  by  Dr.  Kevins,  who  allowed  me 
to  read  the  letter  of  the  noted  Presensee — the 
leading  French  Protestant  Evangelical — in  which 


HYACIXTHE. 


PERE 


On  the  contrary,  this  fiery,  impul- 
sive, excitable  Frenchman,  Pere 
Hyacinthe,  has  not  the  quality  of 


THE  FARNHAM  CONSUL  TA  TION. 


99 


it  was  contained.  It  was  an  earnest  appeal  to  the 
Anglican  Church  to  aid  P&re  Hyacinthe,  on  the 
Ground  that  he  was  doing;  a  most  valuable  work  in 
breaking  into  the  influence  of  the  Romish  Church 
in  France.  Such  testimony  added  great  weight 
to  the  good  father's  address. 

Bishop  Holly  spoke  admirably  on  the 
CHLRCH    j-0pjc  Qf  jjjg  effort;S  jn  Haiti,  and  ap- 

IN  HAITI.        1  .  1 

pealed  for  help  in  establishing  his 

educational  institutions. 

My  leading  thought  in  attending 
ARMENIAN-     .  .     „  . 

this  Conference  was,  that  an  op- 
CHURCH.  %  v 

portunity  might  occur,  of  which  I 
could  take  advantage,  to  plead  the  cause  of  the 
Armenian  Protestants  who  desire  to  be  restored  to 
the  bosom  of  their  ancient  and  beloved  Episcopacy. 
Such  an  opportunity  was  given  ;  and  I  used  it  as 
earnestly  as  I  could,  to  lay  before  the  Church  of 
England  the  marvellous  facts  in  this  case.  The 
statement  was  received  kindly ;  and  by  certain  sub- 
sequent events  I  know  that  the  facts  made  an 
impression.  The  Guardian  says :  "  The  Bishop 
of  Ohio  remarked  playfully,  that  the  Church  of 
England  being  so  closely  connected  with  the  State, 
had,  of  course,  together  with  the  State,  assumed  a 
Protectorate  over  the  Seven  Churches  of  Asia.'  it 


I OO  THE  CA  N  TERB  UR  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 


is  evident,  then,  that  my  "  playful  remark,"  which 
on  the  contrary  was  intended  in  solemn  earnest, 
reached  its  intended  point.  I  heard  of  it  after- 
ward more  than  once.  This  must  surely  be  the 
solution,  under  God,  of  the  great  question,  which 
I  have  so  anxiously  brought  before  our  Church  at 
home.  The  Armenians  are  now  under  the  Pro- 
tectorate of  England  ;  and  certainly  the  welfare  of 
the  Armenian  Church  must  become  an  object  of 
the  deepest  solicitude  to  the  Church  of  England. 

An  ex-Patriarch  of  the  Armenians  is  in  England, 
pleading  for  England's  protection  to  their  nation  ; 
for  theirs  is  both  a  Church  and  a  nation.  His 
object  is  political ;  but  his  presence  and  plea  added 
weight  to  the  arguments,  and  corroborated  the 
facts,  which  the  "Armenian  Papers"  originally 
printed  in  the  "  Standard  of  the  Cross,"  and  re- 
printed in  England,  have  pressed  on  the  attention 
of  our  churches. 

The  last  topic  considered  by  this  Farn- 
MEXICO.  „  , 

ham  Conference  was  the  condition  of 

the  Church  of  Jesus  in  Mexico.    Bishop  Stevens 

set  it  forth  with  clearness  and  great  force.  Many 

other  speeches  were  made.  I  have  only  outlined  the 

topics.    The  meeting  continued  until  quite  late  in 

the  evening.    We  could  not  remain  until  the  close, 


THE  FARNHAM  CONSUL  TA  TION. 


for  we  were  on  our  way  to  spend  the  evening  at 
Winchester  with  Canon  Cams  and  his  wife.  We 
met  these  dear  friends  of  our  lamented  Mcllvaine, 
friends  who  ministered  so  tenderly  to  him  during 
his  last  hours.  Here,  too,  we  renewed  our  memo- 
ries of  Winchester  ;  the  hoary  and  grand,  and  in 
many  respects  the  most  curious  of  English  cathe- 
drals. Here  one  sees  Norman  columns  and  heavy 
arches  remaining  in  one  transept,  whilst  in  every 
other  portion  of  the  church  they  have  been  carved 
down  into  the  light  and  elegant  forms  of  the  orna- 
mented Gothic.  Here,  among  many  antique  monu- 
ments, is  the  new  and  elaborate  mausoleum,  erected 
to  the  memory  of  the  late  Bishop  of  Winchester,  for- 
merly Samuel  Wilberforce,  of  Oxford.  His  effigies, 
a  striking  likeness,  is  reposing  in  episcopal  robes,  on 
a  couch,  upheld  by  six  kneeling  angels.  On  one 
corner  is  a  conundrum  in  marble  ;  the  Bishop's  face 
is  represented  as  double,  looking  both  forward  and 
backward.  The  artist's  meaning  is  not  clear.  This 
visit  to  Winchester  was  full  of  the  deepest  value 
and  interest,  and  closed  a  memorable  day. 


XV. 


BISHOP  HERZOG'S  PASTORAL  LETTER. 

Farnham. 

I  HAVE  alluded  to  the  Pastoral  Letter  issued  by 
the  Bishop  of  the  Swiss  Old  Catholics,  on  occasion 
of  the  accession  of  the  present  Pope.  It  is  so  re- 
markable a  document,  that  you  should  be  in  pos- 
session of,  at  least,  the  main  line  of  its  thought. 

Its  subject  was  the  Holy  Spirit ;  and  it  was  in- 
troduced by  reference  to  the  death  of  the  late 
Pope,  and  the  election  of  a  new  one.  I  quote  a 
few  sentences :  "  Who  can  possibly  believe  that 
the  Holy  Spirit,  whom  Christ  promised  to  His 
people  to  abide  with  them  forever,  should  at  the 

death  of  the  Pope  return  to 
THE  HOLY  SPIRIT.     .     _  ■ 

the  Father  until  a  new  Pope 

is  chosen  ?  And  yet  we  must  accept  this,  if,  as  the 
Vatican  Council  teaches,  the  Pope  is  the  sole  de- 
positary of  that  Spirit,  who  leads  the  Lord's  dis- 
ciples into  all  truth.  Who  can  possibly  believe, 
that  that  sacrament  of  all  sacraments,  the  dispens- 
ing of  the  Divine  Spirit,  should  merely  consist  in 

a  vote  given  by  a  few  ecclesiastics?    And  yet  the 

(102) 


BISHOP  HERZOGS  PASTORAL  LETTER.  103 

election  of  a  Pope  must  be  such  a  sacrament,  for 
the  elected  one  becomes  the  Supreme  High-Priest, 
without  whose  assent,  as  is  pretended,  no  valid 
sacramental  act  can  be  performed. 

"  Let  us  turn  ourselves  from  these  fallacies  to  the 
only  eternal  High-Priest.  Christ  is  the  true  and 
only  Head  of  the  Church,  Who  pours  out  on  us 
without  intermission  all  grace  and  truth  in  the 
Holy  Ghost." 

Following  the  words  of  Christ,  "  the  Apostles 
laid  the  greatest  stress  upon  a  vital  union  with 
Christ.  They  say  that  Christ  must  live  in  us. 
They  display  the  moral  life-union  with  the  Lord 
by  saying  that  we  must  put  on  Christ." 

But  "  those  who  are  united  by  the  word  and 
grace  of  Christ,  have  also  outwardly  before  the 
world  to  display  their  oneness.  May  we  not,  there- 
fore, conceive  that  this  visible  unity  should  be 
mediated  by  one  who  should  represent  the  place 
of  Christ  toward  the  faithful  ?  " 

"  It  is  not  inconceivable." 

And  then  he  goes  on,  by  a  delightful  concatena- 
tion of  texts,  to  show  that  the  Saviour  did  actually 
provide  such  a  substitute  for  Himself,  not  by  ele- 
vating any  Apostle,  but  by  providing  the  Paraclete, 
the  Comforter,  who  is  the  true  and  only  Vicege- 


io4 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


VICEGERENT. 


CHRISTS 


rent  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ, 
during  the  present  dispensation. 
Then   follow  these  remarkable 


words  :  "  The  Holy  Spirit  of  Truth,"  "He  binds  to- 
gether the  faithful  into  unity  by  placing  each  in- 
dividual man  in  life-union  with  God  and  Christ." 

"  That  very  beautiful  Parable  of  the  Vine  shows 
that  He  had  not  in  view  a  unity  such  as  might 
exist  in  a  well-organized  monarchy,  but  a  unity  of 
the  Spirit." 

"At  His  departure  He  instituted  the  love-sup- 
per through  which  His  people  might  enter  into 
true  life-union  with  Him,  and  might  exhibit  them- 
selves before  the  world  as  a  communion  sanctified 
through  Him." 

"  This  unity  is  the  blossom  and  fruit  of  the  full- 
est freedom.  For  faith,  love,  morality,  sanctifica- 
tion,  and  hope  can  only  unfold  and  grow  in  the 
liberty  of  the  Spirit.  And  for  the  same  reason, 
this  communion  between  Christ's  people  must  not 
be  confounded  with  outward  uniformity." 

The  Pastoral  Letter  is  replete  with  spirituality. 
It  is  a  distinct  recognition  of  the  individualness  of 
union  by  faith  (through  the  use  of  the  Sacraments 
indeed)  with  Christ,  by  the  operation  of  the  Holy 
Ghost,  in  distinction  from,  but  not  in  opposition 


BISHOP  HERZOG'S  PASTORAL  LETTER.  105 

to,  the  cognate  truth,  corporate  union  by  the 
Church.  Beautiful  in  style,  it  is  still  more  attract- 
ive by  the  precious  truths  which  it  contains. 
When  you  couple  with  such  sentiments  the  fact 
already  mentioned,  that  he,  and  the  Bonn  Synod, 
have  agreed  to  administer  the  Lord's  Supper,  when 
desired,  in  both  kinds — that  is,  to  give  both  the 
Sacramental  Bread  and  the  Wine  to  the  laity,  you 
will  appreciate  what  a  tremendous  stride  Old  Ca- 
tholicism has  taken,  in  its  return  toward  the  faith 
and  practice  of  the  Apostles. 


5" 


XVI. 


BERNE,  AND  THE  OBERLAND. 

Berne. 

Delightful  Berne  !  The  glorious  snow-peaks 
of  the  Alps  in  sight !  Looking  across  the  valley 
of  the  Aare,  through  which  that  "abounding" 
river  rushes,  our  view  is  stopped,  fifty  miles  away, 
by  the  cloud-piercing  forms  of  the  Wetterhorn,  the 
Shreckhorn,  the  Finsteraarhorn,  the 

THE  ALPS. 

two  Eigers,  and  the  grand  Jung-Frau, 
with  a  whole  company  of  lesser  note,  which  fill  in 
the  intervals  and  create  the  unbroken  chain  of  the 
Oberland,  stretching  to  the  right  to  the  Blumisalp, 
and  to  the  left  to  the  Hinterthieb.  The  six  peaks 
in  the  front  view,  which  I  have  first  named,  rise 
in  varying  heights  from  11,400  feet  to  13,160  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea — nearly  two  and  one- 
half  miles.  There  is  nothing  by  which  I  can  com- 
pare this  tremendous  height,  so  as  to  give  the  idea 
to  one  who  has  not  seen  it,  nor  does  any  one  com- 
pass the  idea  by  a  first  visit  to  the  Alps.  The  idea 
grows  as  you  study  them.    At  last,  some  slight 

conception  of  these  great  proportions  begins  to 
(106) 


BERNE,  AXD  THE  OBERLAND.  \0y 

creep  into  the  mind.  Trinity  Church  spire  in  New 
York  is  about  250  feet  in  height.  Its  cross  seems 
lifted  far  up  into  heaven.  But  twenty  spires  of 
Trinity  Church  piled  one  upon  the  other,  will  not 
carry  one  a  single  mile  upward  toward  the  throne 
of  God.  For  the  view  which  I  enjoy  to-day,  I 
need  to  realize  a  mountain-top  two  miles  and  a 
half  nearer  to  the  sky,  than  when  we 
are  standing  by  the  sea-side.  The 

PIERCING. 

Catskill  Mountains,  which  seem  gi- 
gantic as  you  sail  beneath  them  on  the  Hudson 
River  (still  twelve  miles  from  them,  although 
their  shadow  strikes  the  water),  are  less  than 
4,000  feet  high.  Pile  Pelion  on  Ossa,  Catskill 
upon  Catskill,  three  times,  and  you  would  not 
then  be  able  to  step  upon  the  top  of  the  Jung- 
Frau  ;  and  four  times,  and  then  Mount  Blanc  and 
Monte  Rosa  would  laugh  at  your  fruitless  effort  to 
reach  their  cloud-capped  summits.  As  I  look  now 
upon  the  beautiful  Jung-Frau,  every  rock  is  covered 
with  perpetual  ice,  and  every  fissure  has  its  glacier, 
and  a  snow-mantle  covers  all,  pure 

and  white,  fit  for  the  peaks  which 
COVERED.  1 

are   admitted   as  visitors  from  the 

earth  to  approach  nearest  to  the  heavenly  sanc- 
tuary.   Around  them  clouds  gather,  and  again  are 


I08  THE  CANTERBUR  Y  PILGRIM  A  CE. 


swept  away.  Alternate  play  of  light  and  shade 
gives  infinite  variety  to  the  prospect.  As  I  look 
up  from  my  paper,  I  see  mountains  like  clouds,  and 
clouds  that  seem  to  bear  the  solid  forms  of  ever- 
lasting hills ;  but  when  I  saw  them  last  evening, 
through  the  rifts  of  a  thunder-storm,  the  ice-peaks 
stood  in  solemn  grandeur  against  the  clear  blue 
sky,  and  a  smile  passed  over  them — it  was  a  violet 
ray — as  if  to  reassure  the  sometimes  weary,  and 
sometimes  faint-hearted,  that  all  clouds  are  earth- 
born,  whilst  above  them,  the  Rock  of  Ages  forever 
dwells,  within  the  radiance  of  the  Father's  love. 

If  there  are  sermons  in  stones,  I  surely 

FAITIRS  jlearcj  these  mountains  say,  amidst  the 
LESSON. 

thunder  and  the  flashes:  "  He  that  be- 
lieveth  shall  not  make  haste."  "  It  is  I,  be  not 
afraid."  And  my  heart  responded  with  joy  to 
the  "  Rock  of  Ages,  cleft  for  me."  Its  foot  is  on 
the  earth,  where  even  feeble  faith  can  reach  it. 
But  its  Head  is  bathed  in  the  glory  of  heaven ; 
and  the  higher  our  faith  can  climb,  the  less  gloomy 
are  the  clouds,  and  the  more  serene  and  unbroken 
is  our  peace  with  God. 

God's  gracious  providence  has  made 

USES  OF       ,  .  ,  .  V 

these  grand  mountains  for  a  pur- 
THE  ALPS.  & 

pose,  and  collected  them  here  with 
design ;  and  has  also  fitted  a  nation  for  the  care  of 


BERNE,  AND  THE  OBERLAND. 


IO9 


them.  For  the  Alps  are  the  reservoir  of  Europe, 
and  Switzers  are  the  guardians  of  this  magnificent 
water-shed.  While  sceptical  philosophers  are 
digging  up  all  sorts  of  skeletons,  to  see  if 
there  is  not  some  unbroken  bone  of  an  argument, 
which  will  enable  them  to  believe  that  there  is  no 
God,  these  Alps,  which  have  never  moved  since 
the  creation,  have  been  telling  the  grand  story  of 
Divine  purpose  ever  since  the  creation.  Why  do 
not  these  philosophers  study  it  ?  Here  God  has 
laid  up  His  fountains  of  fertility  for  Europe. 
Here  the  clouds  deposit  their  moisture ;  and  here, 
on  these  inaccessible  summits,  the  drops  freeze. 
Gradually  avalanches  fall  into  crevices,  and  into 


and  the  melting  begins  below,  this  ice-river  com- 
mences to  creep  along.  Twelve  feet,  I  think,  is 
the  rate,  year  by  year.  It  creeps  along,  down 
the  side  of  every  mountain,  until  the  lower  end 
arrives  at  a  point  where  it  can  feel  the  influence 
of  the  summer's  sun.  Then  the  melting  begins. 
And  then  begin  the  torrents  which  flow  into  and 
form  the  Rhine,  and  the  Rhone,  and  the  Aare,  and 
the  Inn,  and  the  Ticino.  These  water,  and  give 
fertility  to,  Europe.     France,  Germany,  Austria, 


ACTION. 


GLACIAL 


great  valleys  on  the  mountain  sides. 
By  and  by  a  glacier  is  formed.  Then, 
as  the  pressure  increases  from  above, 


HO  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


Italy,  and  Switzerland  itself,  are  fed  from  these 


them.  This  ice-bed  —  a  bed  of  perpetual  ice  — 
covers  one  thousand  square  miles. 

God's  providence  has  prepared  a  hardy,  brave, 
enduring  people  to  guard  this  grand  reservoir. 
Their  character,  no  doubt  owing  to  the  land  in 
which  they  dwell,  has  altered  little  since  the  days 
when  Cassar  found  them  to  be  a  barrier  to  his  con- 


country  as  their  fathers  gave  it  to  them,  living  by 
hard  toil,  by  flocks  that  are  fed  on  every  little 
green  spot  that  peeps  out  amongst  the  snows, 
and  by  the  cultivation  of  the  low  lands,  which 
yield  abundantly. 

It  is  difficult  to  realize  that  a  country  which  in- 
cludes such  majestic  features  of  scenery,  and  plays 
such  a  part  in  God's  eternal  purposes,  is  scarcely 
larger  than  our  Diocesan  half  of  Ohio,  being  only 
220  x  no  miles;  and  that  this  influential  nation 
numbers  only  the  population  of  Ohio — two  millions 
and  a  half. 

Yet  some  men  say  that  all  things  came  by 
chance ;  and  that  there  is  no  God  ! 


ice-rivers,  and  the  lal 


kes  which  are  formed  by 


SWITZER 


G  CARDS. 


quests.  They  have  no  ambition  to 
destroy  the  forests  and  change  the 
course   of   rivers.     They  leave  the 


XVII. 


GIMMELWALD,  AND  THE  JUNG-FRAU. 

Gimmchvald. 

We  are  enjoying  the  natural  attractions  of  this 
mountain  hamlet.  Max  Miiller  was  greatly  de- 
lighted with  the  views  from  this  spot,  and  with  its 

quaint  primitiveness.    It  is  as  yet 
A  MOUNTAIN  to  We 

HAMLET. 

owe  the  pleasure  of  seeing  it  en- 
tirely to  his  enthusiastic  description,  and  his  ur- 
gency that  we  should  also  enjoy  it.  Nor  is  it  pos- 
sible for  any  lover  of  what  is  grand  and  vast  among 
the  works  of  God  to  be  disappointed  here.  We 
stand  in  awe  of  the  Almighty  Power  which  has  here 
given  to  nature  such  sublimity,  and  exhibited  such 
resistless  forces. 

Gimmelwald,  or  Giimmelwald,  is  a  retired  Swiss 
village,  on  the  heights  at  the  very  end  of  the 
Lauterbrunnen  valley,  opposite  to  the  Oberland 
range.    To  reach  it,  a  traveller  hires  a  char-a-banc, 

or  a  one-horse  chaise,  at  the  village  of 
ROUTE.  ,  ,   .  c  ,  . 

Lauterbrunnen,  being  careful  to  carry 

with  him  a  good  saddle.    After  a  drive  of  five 

(in) 


1 1 2  THE  CA  NTERB  UR  V  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 

miles,  coming  to  the  end  of  the  carriage-road,  at 
Stackelberg,  the  horse  is  saddled,  and  the  driver 
becomes  a  guide.  The  traveller,  now  on  horse- 
back, crosses  the  White  Leutschine,  and  ascends 
the  mountain  to  the  west  and  south,  along  the 
precipitous  side  of  a  deep  ravine.  The  ascent  is 
very  rapid  for  one  thousand  feet.  Then  by  a 
slight  descent  he  arrives  at  the  side  of  a  torrent, 
crosses  by  a  precarious  bridge,  and  ascending  again 
abruptly,  at  the  height  of  two  thousand  feet  above 
the  valley,  comes  to  Gimmelwald,  and  the  chalet 


Indeed,  for  a  good  pedestrian,  the  whole  trip  will 
not  require  more  than  three  hours.  Ladies  may 
be  carried  up  the  mountain  by  a  chaise-a-porteur. 
This  route  is  shorter,  and  far  easier,  than  the  ascent 
by  Miirren.  The  hamlet  is  straggling ;  each  house 
seems  to  be  quarrelling  with  a  neighbor  for  leave 
to  cling  to  the  side  of  the  mountain.  At  the  Inn, 
Frau  Von  Allmen — let  her  name  be  known — pro- 
vides for  every  reasonable  want  of  her  guests, 
at  a  price  per  day  varying,  according  to  the  room, 
from  $1.00  to  $1.25.  It  is  all  plain,  it  is  true  ;  but 
the  table  is  German-Swiss,  and  plentiful.  How 


SCHIL  T-HORN 
INN. 


of  the  Schilt-horn.  Of  course  an 
Alpine  walker  will  trust  his  own 
feet  rather  than  those  of  a  horse. 


GIMMEL  WALD.  AND  7  HE  JUXG-FRAU. 


"3 


long  this  primitiveness  and  economy  will  last,  who 
shall  say?  Indeed,  I  feel  guilty  even  in  writing 
about  it ;  for  the  moment  that  this  now  quiet 
resort  shall  become  known,  its  quietness  and 
quaintness  will  pass  away  like  the  remembrance 
of  a  pleasant  dream,  and  rising  prices  will  scatter 
the  agreeable  band  of  Alpine  tourists  who  now 
make  it  their  resort. 

Here  we  are  face  to  face  with  the  Jung-Frau. 
Perched  on  the  edge  of  the  hill,  four  thousand 
six  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  and  opposite  the 
chain  of  the  Bernese  Oberland,  at  its  best  point, 


snows  on  the  summit  of  the  Silver  Horn  and  the 
Bright  Horn  (translated  from  the  German  names), 
are  on  a  line  with  our  eyes.  As  I  am  writing, 
their  masses  of  ice,  loosened  by  this  August  sun, 
are  forming  avalanches,  and  thundering  down  to 
the  lower  slopes.  There  the  sun  meets  them,  and 
the  streams  begin  their  flow. 

Lauterbrunnen  is  well  named.  It  is  the  valley 
of  "  nothing  but  water-falls."  From  the  moment 
that  one  leaves  Interlaken,  all  the  sounds  of  nature 
are  resolved  into  the  murmur  of  brooks,  the  h  m 


JUXG-FRA  U. 


THE 


we  are  looking  right  into  the  heart 
of  the  Jung-Frau.  The  glaciers, 
that  have  their  origin  from  the 


I  1 4  THE  CA  N  TI-.RB  UR  Y  P1L  GRIM  A  GE. 

of  mountain  rivulets,  and  the  roar  of  torrents  or 
leaping  falls.  Five  miles  further  to  the  north,  op- 
posite to  the  village  of  Lauterbrunnen,  from  the 
height  of  the  hill  on  which  we  now  are,  the  Stau- 
bach  leaps  down  the  precipice,  a  clear  leap  of  over 
700  feet.  Its  water  becomes  mere  spray  before  it 
touches  the  rock  again  after  such  a  fall.  Gathering 
again,  the  stream  goes  on  in  another  leap,  in  all 
making  a  water-fall  of  more  than  900  feet.  Near 
us,  at  Gimmelwald,  there  are  three  lovely  falls. 
And  from  our  window  I  count — I  have  just  counted 
them — twelve  cascades  on  the  opposite  mountain- 
side ;  and  there  are  quite  as  many  within  a  half 
hour's  walk  on  our  own  side. 

It  is  very  quiet  here,  provocative  of  study  and 
writing;  of  both  which  I  have  done  a  full  share 
during  the  past  ten  days.    Our  fellow  guests  are 
Alpine  climbers.    Even  some  of  the  ladies  go  off 
with  the  parties  for  a  morning  climb 

AN  ALPINE       cr  c  i  u  i 

of  6,000  or  7,000  feet,  and  come  back 
CLUB.  ' 

to  dinner  at  noon.    Yesterday,  two 

gentlemen  and  three  ladies  started  at  6  A.M.,  walked 

by  Miirren  to  Lauterbrunnen,  then  up  the  Wen- 

gern  Alp,  and  back  by  Stackelberg,  arriving  home 

at  8,  after  eleven  hours  of  walking,  climbing  at 

least  7,000  feet,  and  going   about  twenty-eight 


GIMME  L  WALD,  AND  THE  JUNG-FRA  U. 

miles.  They  were  all  at  breakfast  this  morning, 
bright  and  vigorous.  We  may  envy  such  physical 
powers,  but  there  is  no  use  in  trying  to  imitate 
what  is  impossible  to  us.  So  we  take  our  quiet 
walks,  enjoy  the  grand  features  of  the  scenery, 
watch  the  avalanches,  delight  our  eyes  with  the 
endless  variety  of  water-falls,  and  are  lulled  to  rest 
at  night  by  the  murmur,  or  the  roar,  of  the  wild 
leaping  streams. 

An  hour's  walk  to  the  north 

MURREN  CHURCH.    .      .  c 

is  the  town  of  Murren,  800 

feet  higher  than  this.  It  is  a  favorite  resort,  very 
much  crowded.  The  fact  that  a  great  number  of 
English  people  go  there  every  summer,  has  led 
naturally  to  the  attempt  to  build  a  church  for  their 
use.  The  attempt  has  succeeded  so  far  that  the 
new  church  was  opened  for  a  first  service  last  Sun- 
day, August  nth.  Hearing  of  it,  we  took  advan- 
tage of  the  occasion,  in  company  with  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Hutchinson,  of  Rugby,  and  other  English 
people  from  this  hamlet ;  and  listened  to  an 
appropriate  and  very  simple  sermon  by  Rev.  Dr. 
Butler,  Master  of  Harrow.  The  services  were  led 
by  the  chaplain,  Rev.  Mr.  Edgar;  and  I  had 
the  privilege  of  taking  part  in  them.  The  little 
church  was  quite  full ;  probably  200  persons  were 


n6  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


present.  On  the  succeeding  Sunday  (18th),  I 
preached  in  the  morning;  and  the  chaplain,  Rev. 
Mr.  Edgar,  in  the  afternoon.  How  hearty  were  the 
responses  and  singing !  People  at  such  a  time,  and 
amidst  such  associations,  seem  to  forget  their  con- 
ventionality. Prayer  and  praise  come  forth  from 
willing  hearts,  and  there  is  a  reality  about  it,  which, 
with  us,  alas!  in  cities,  and  the  crowded  world, 
worship  often  lacks.  This  attractive  little  church 
is  built  under  the  auspices  of  the  S.  P.  G.  It  is  a 
pretty  specimen  of  architecture ;  a  combination  of 
old  English  with  the  Swiss  style.  The  ceiling  is 
entirely  open.  The  whole  frame  appears.  The 
beams  on  which  the  roof  lies  are  thrown  beyond 
the  table-beam  of  the  frame,  thus  securing  the  best 
ventilation  between  and  underneath  the  edge  of 
the  roof  and  the  frame.  All  the  fittings  are  simple. 
The  service  and  sermon,  and  administration  of  the 
Holy  Communion,  were  all  in  the  sober  old-fash- 
ioned forms  in  which  I  delight. 

A  gratifying  announcement  was 
A  BROTHERLY         .     ,      _      „    .  . 

IDEA  made  by  Dr.  Butler,  that  one 

purpose  of  erecting  the  church, 
was,  to  furnish  a  place  of  worship  for  the  Swfss  vil- 
lagers, at  other  seasons  than  during  the  summer 
heats,  when  English  and  American  travellers  will 


GIMMEL IV A LD,  AND  THE  JUNG-FRA  U.  uj 

need  it.  An  admirable  practical  thought !  Why 
should  these  little  chapels,  scattered  through  all 
this  land  by  British  and  American  liberality,  be 
closed  and  useless  except  for  three  months  of  the 
year?  What  a  blessing  to  these  poor  hamlets  they 
might  be,  if  used,  as  this  one  at  Miirren  is  to  be,  by 
the  Swiss  pastors  for  their  own  flocks,  during  the 
long  months  when  Switzerland  is  deserted  by  for- 
eigners. Accordingly,  at  5  o'clock  in  the  evening, 
the  idea  was  realized  ;  the  church  was  open  to  the 
Swiss  villagers.  Two  pasteurs  came  up  from  the 
valley,  one  of  them  preaching  in  German  ;  and  there 
was  a  congregation  of  150  villagers,  from  the  sur- 
rounding hamlets.    God  bless  the  effort ! 


XVIII. 


MURREN  AND  THE  AVALANCHES. 

It  was  a  glorious  day  :  the  sun  bright,  the  shad- 
ows deep,  a  light  air  stirring,  and  the  snow  mount- 
ains opposite  to  us  revealing  every  feature  of  their 
majesty.  Certainly,  Miirren  presents  the  finest  coup 
d'ccil,  embracing  the  widest  range  of  snow  peaks, 
in  a  near  view,  which  we  have  yet  enjoyed.  Our 
experience  has  been  somewhat  extended,  and  there- 
fore I  speak  with  less  reserve.  Rigi  Culm  for  a 
distant  view ;  Miirren  for  a  close  view  of  the  Alps. 
As  we  stood  on  the  terrace  below  the  hotel,  it 
seemed  as  if  we  could  toss  a  biscuit  across  the 
White  Lutschine  (running  2,600  feet  below  us 
through  the  Lauterbrunnen  valley),  into  the  shel- 
ters of  the  chamois  on  that  pile  of  rocky  peaks, 
which  rises  directly  between  our  eye  and  the  body 

of  the  Jung-Frau.  This  strange, 
THE  BLACK  ,  .    „,  , 

„  ragged    mass    of    the  Black 

MOUNTAIN.  &a 

Mountain,  rising  8,000  feet  from 

the  valley,  seems  to  be  a  buttress  for  the  great 
(118) 


MUX  REN,  AND  THE  AVALANCHES. 


II9 


range  of  ice-hills  behind,  and  on  either  side  of  it. 
But  it  can  not  hide  them.    Towering  above,  and 
looking  over  at  us  from  her  throne  of  snow,  the 
Jung-Frau  sits  in  glorious  majesty, 

JUNG-FRAU. 

raising  her  head  toward  heaven  at  a 

height  of  12,800  feet.  In  either  hand  she  holds  the 

Silberhorner  at  11,300  feet,  and  the  Schrechorner 

at  10,500  feet.    So  she  looks  down  upon  us,  with 

her  three  summits,  from  above  the  ridges  of  the 

black  hill  in  front ;  or,  rather,  they  draw  our  eyes 

up  to  the  fairest  image  which  this  earth  presents  of 

the  Throne  of  the  Most  High.    Then  as  we  turn 

to  the  right,  all  the  peaks  are  in  full 
OBERLAND.  . 

view  with   which  Gimmelwald  has 

made  us  familiar :  the  Gletschorner,  the  Mittag- 
horner,  the  Gosshorner,  and  the  Breithorner,  and 
beyond  them  still  are  the  Blumisalp.  On  our 
left,  are  the  Monch,  the  Eigher,  and  the  Wetter- 
horner,  which  we  could  not  see  at  all  from  Gim- 
melwald. Indeed,  from  Miirren  we  see,  close  at 
hand,  almost  all  the  points  which  one  sees  from 
Berne,  at  a  distance  of  fifty  miles. 

As  we  unwillingly  bade  farewell  to  this  scene 

of   solemn,    silent  grandeur, 
THUNDER   WITH-  , 

OUT  A  CLOUD.      thCre    15    3    r°H    °f  thunde«-- 
We  look  up.    Not  a  cloud. 


120 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


We  recognize  the  echoes  of  an  avalanche ;  and 
looking  across  to  the  foot  of  the  glacier,  which  is 
in  a  line  with  our  eye  at  5,000  feet  in  height,  we 
notice  where  a  piece  of  the  frozen  mass  has  broken 
off,  and  quickly  following  with  our  eye  down  to- 
ward the  valley,  we  see  a  torrent  of  crumbling  ice 
and  snow  just  ceasing  to  fall  over  the  precipice 
below  the  glacier.  As  we  are  turning  away,  another 
mass  breaks  off;  and  now  the  frozen  cascade 
plunges  down  in  terrible  madness  chasing  the 
other.    The  rushing  whirl  seems  to  hurry  down 


first  snow  torrent  has  gone  rushing  on,  and  coming 
to  a  less  perpendicular  precipice,  it  goes  thundering 
down  a  rough  plane,  like  the  rapids  above  the 
Horse-shoe  Fall  of  Niagara.  So,  while  the  echoes 
multiply,  we  see  two  avalanches  together,  following 
each  other  ;  one  precipitously,  and  one,  lower  down, 
falling  at  an  angle  ;  both  of  them  covering  the 
rocks  with  snow  dust  whilst  rushing  to  increase  the 
mass  of  the  lowest  glacier.  Out  of  the  foot  of  this 
glacier  a  river  is  issuing. 

Filled  with  wonder  at  this  grand  exhibition,  our 
eyes  wander  back  to  the  familiar  ice-beds  which  we 


A  VALANCHES. 


TWO 


200  feet  or  more ;  then  comes 
the  thunder  again,  for  while  we 
were  gazing  on  the  second,  the 


MURREN,  AND  THE  A  VALANCHES. 


121 


saw  at  Gimmehvald ;  and  behold !  a  magnificent 


Schmadribach.  It  emerges  from  a  glacier  in  great 
volume,  is  hurled  to  a  depth  of  200  feet ;  whence 
it  rises  again  in  vapor,  and,  bounding  outward, 
forms  an  arch  before  re-collecting  its  drops,  and 
plunging  down  again  toward  the  Lutschine.  It  is 
said  that  on  this  arch  one  can  see  the  constant  play 
of  the  Iris  in  sunlight.  We  can  well  imagine  it ; 
for  during  one  of  our  walks  down  toward  the  head 
of  the  valley  of  Gimmehvald,  about  4  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon,  as  we  looked  toward  one  of  the 
cataracts  which  faced  the  sun,  we  saw  almost  every 
color  of  the  spectrum  refracted  in  the  falling  river. 
It  was  not  a  bow,  but  a  straight,  perpendicular  line 
of  colors  in  bands ;  the  green,  blue,  and  violet  be- 
ing predominant. 

Another  thunder  roll !    Our  thoughts  and  eyes 


off,  and  the  snow  stream  goes  thundering  after 
the  others ;  only,  now,  the  stream  is  wider,  and  it 
has  broken  into  rills,  and  they  separate  over  the  face 


SCHMA  D  RIB  A  C/I. 


FALL   OF  THE 


water-fall  which  was  hidden 
from  us  until  we  had  passed 
Miirren  —  the    Fall    of  the 


A  V ALAN  CHE. 


A  THIRD 


are  called  back.  Precisely  at  the 
same  spot  as  before,  another  mass 
of  the  upper  glacier  has  broken 


6 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


of  the  precipice,  and  meet  again,  and  separate,  and 
meet  ;  as  if  a  skilful  lace-weaver  were  using  them 
for  a  network.  It  is  indescribably  beautiful  and 
grand — these  forms  of  nature,  irresistible  powers, 
pouring  down  in  a  mad  course ;  and  yet,  in  the 
hands  of  God's  subtle,  unseen  forces,  assuming 
shapes  of  exquisite  grace,  and  playing  in  and  out 
with  all  the  glee  of  a  gentle,  merry,  summer  water- 
fall. And  all  this  amidst  the  utter  silence  and  the 
desolate  solitude  of  the  snow-fields  of  the  Alps. 
A  moment  was  spent  in  awe  ;  another  in  thankful- 
ness to  God  that  we  had  seen  such  a  vision  of  ma- 
jestic beauty. 
'We  had  not  gone  a  hundred  feet  before  another 
thunder  call !   and,  looking 

AND  A  FOURTH.  .  .  . 

quickly,  by  a  sort  of  instinct, 

to  the  same  spot  as  before,  we  saw  another  mass 
go  tumbling  down  at  the  same  place  ;  a  fourth  ava- 
lanche ;  and  all  the  four  had  broken  off  apparently 
within  a  few  feet  of  each  other. 

These  frozen  cataracts,  with  which  nature  seems 
to  amuse  herself,  are  not  always  harmless.  At  this 
spot  they  are  innocent  indeed,  for  they  fall  into 
the  uninhabited  Triimmen-Thal,  a  deep  gorge  be- 
tween the  Jung-Frau  and  the  Wengern  Alp.  But 
they  are  masses  of  hundreds  of  tons  of  broken  ice, 


MURREN,  AND  THE  AVALANCHES.  12$ 

and  frequently  take  down  with  them  hundreds  of 
tons  of  rock  and  earth.  When  they  fall  upon  a 
forest  or  a  village,  they  sweep  everything  away  ;  and 
alas  !  human  lives  also. 

I  remember  once,  long  ago,  on  the  way  to  Cha- 
mounix  after  leaving  Sallenche,  we  came  to  a  plain 
of  large  gravel  and  sand,  without  a  vestige  of  tree  or 
shrub  or  grass,  which  looked  as  if  it  had  been  des- 
olate from  the  creation.    Across  it  the  road  had 


lanche  poured  down  here  into  the  Arve,  and  made 
a  dam  across  the  river ;  and  then  the  flood  broke 
loose  and  tore  everything  away.  Avalanche  and 
river  together  swept  all  these  fair  fields  into  ruin, 
and  the  village  and  the  hamlets,  and  the  souls  that 
were  living  here  in  peace  and  security.  And 
scarcely  enough  were  saved  to  tell  the  tale." 


SUDDEN 
DESOLA  TION. 


been  newly  made.  I  asked,"  What 
is  this?  "  The  guide  took  off  his 
hat  solemnly  and  said  :  "  An  ava- 


y 


XIX. 

INTERLAKEN,  AND  THE  LAKES. 


We  are  detained  at  Interlaken  for  a  day  or  two. 
It  is  a  very  hospitable  place ;  using  the  term  in  its 
ancient  sense  :  for  a  greater  number  of  hostels,  or 
houses  for  hospitality,  will  be  found  crowded  to- 
gether here,  than  appear  in  any  other  town  of  simi- 
lar dimensions. 

Rain  is  pouring  in  occasional  torrents,  and  travel- 
ling would  be,  to  say  the  least,  disagreeable.  Inter- 
laken is  not  an  unpleasant  place  for  a  brief  sojourn. 

Those  who  are  fond  of  crowds 

SARATOGA  IN  .    .    ,  .  ,  ,  .  c 

and  fashion  would   speak  01 

SWITZERLAND.  r 

it  in  enthusiastic  terms ;  for 
it  is  the  Saratoga  of  Switzerland.  As  there, 
fountains  of  health-waters  are  distributed,  so  here, 
by  a  sort  of  parallelism,  the  streams  of  health- 
seekers  distribute  themselves  in  all  directions.  It 
is  the  chief  starting-place  for  trips  to  the  high  Alps. 
You  will  not  be  much  surprised,  then,  to  learn,  al- 
though it  was  a  curious  coincidence,  that,  soon  after 
(124) 


I\TTEKLAKEN,AND  THE  LAKES.  12$ 

our  arrival,  other  Bishops  and  their  companions 
came  in  from  various  quarters ;  until  in  these  two 
days  six  of  us  have  reported  here  ;  all  making  a  trip 
on  the  continent  before  returning  to  America  from 
the  Conference. 

Bishops  Lee,  Stevens,  Scarbor- 
SIX  BISHOPS.  ,       _    ,  ,  ■  ,  -  .„ 

ough,    Spalding,    and  Bedell 

were  here  yesterday,  and  Bishop  Howe  arrived 
this  morning.  The  latter  has  been  to  Paris,  and 
preached  at  our  American  Episcopal  Church  in  that 
city.  On  next  Sunday  Bishop  Littlejohn  will  be 
in  Geneva,  consecrating  our  new  church  in  that  im- 
portant city. 


August  26th. 

Yesterday  the  pulpit  of  the  English  Chapel  was 
occupied  by  Bishop  Bedell  in  the  morning,  and 
Bishop  Howe,  of  Central  Pennsylvania,  in  the 
afternoon.  The  chapel  is  the  choir  of  what  would 
have  been  a  grand  monastery  church,  had  it  ever 
been  completed.  But  the  monastery  was  sup- 
pressed by  the  Cantonal  Government  in  1528,  and 
part  of  it  is  now  a  prison,  part  a  hospital,  part 
used  as  Government  buildings ;  one  portion  of  the 
church  is  given  to  the  Roman  Catholics,  another  to 
the  Scotch  Church,  and  the  choir  to  the  English. 


126 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


The  chaplain  for  August  has  been  Rev.  Joshua 
Kirkman,  of  London,  who  told  me  that  Bishop 
Mcllvaine  had  preached  three  times  for  him  in  his 
parish  church.  So  that  it  was  quite  in  order  for 
the  Bishop  of  Ohio  to  preach  for  him  in  Interlaken. 

Bishop  Howe's  sermon  was  a  precious, 

HO  WE. 

strengthening,  and  instructive  compari- 
son and  interpretation  of  the  three  texts — "  Bear 
ye  one  another's  burdens.  Every  man  shall  bear 
his  own  burden.  Cast  thy  burden  on  the  Lord." 
His  finished  style  and  weighty  thoughts  made  a 
deep  impression. 

Bishop  Lee  preached  yesterday  at  Miirren 

LEE. 

in  the  afternoon.  So  the  voices  of  Ameri- 
can Bishops  continue  to  be  heard,  even  though  the 
Conference  has  dispersed. 

After  the  afternoon  service  a  slight  shower  came 
on.  But  as  the  clouds  broke  at  sunset,  two  magnifi- 
cent rainbows  spanned  the  whole 

A  VISION  OF       M  ,  , . 

valley,  the  base   resting  on  the 

HEA  VEN.  ,         .  7  , 

mountains  on  either  side ;  at  the 

same  instant  the  Jung-Frau  shook  her  head  clear 

of  clouds,  and  appeared  robed  in  dazzling  white ; 

while  the  whole  lower  valley  was  bathed  in  that 

peculiar  glow  which  is  familiar  to  us  when  the  red 

rays  of  the  setting  sun  shoot  below  a  cloud,  filling 


LNTERLAKEKT^AND  THE  LAKES.  \2J 

all  the  lower  atmosphere  with  softened  radiance. 
It  was  very  beautiful.  If  the  term  were  not  so  per- 
verted it  would  be  right  to  call  it  heavenly ;  for 
such  a  landscape,  seen  amidst  such  lights  and  shad- 
ows, may  well  be  part  of  the  heavenly  vision. 

An    entire   contrast    to  the 

BE  T  WEE N  THE 

mountain  scenery  near  Miirren 

LAKES. 

is  presented  by  that  of  Inter- 
laken  ;  for  "  Between-the-lakes,"  as  the  name  indi- 
cates, implies  that  this  town  is  on  a  level  that 
scarcely  divides,  and  almost  connects,  Lakes  Thun 
and  Brienz.  In  fact,  the  soil  was  accumulated 
here  chiefly  by  the  washings  of  the  impetuous 
Lutschine  ;  and  Interlaken  is  only  a  few  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  lakes.  A  river  runs  through  it, 
connecting  the  two.  This  scenery  is,  therefore, 
wholly  of  the  valley.  But  a  lovely  valley  it  is,  shut 
in,  in  the  rear,  by  a  bold  overhanging  mountain, 
and  in  front,  by  a  series  of  grand  heights,  very 
varied  in  form,  leaving  only  one  opening,  that  of 
the  Lauterbrunnen  valley,  through  which  every 
dweller  in  Interlaken  has  an  uninterrupted  view  of 
the  grand  form  of  the  Jung-Frau. 

I  walked  to-day  up  the  Brunig  road  for  two 
miles,  gradually  rising  above  Lake  Brienz.  There, 
a  hill  to  the  right  offered  the  promise  of  a  good 


128 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


prospect.  I  followed  a  rough  foot-path,  and  found 
myself  unexpectedly  among  the  ruins  of  an  old 
church,  perched  on  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
spots  conceivable.    Entering  an  open  gateway,  a 


shelterless  ruin.  Back  of  it  are  the  ruins  of  a  nave. 
And  around  the  tower,  in  silence  and  alone,  lie  a 
few  buried  bodies  of  the  dead.  A  lonelier  spot  I 
never  saw.  And  yet  I  was  not  quite  alone  there. 
For,  as  I  clambered  round  the  tower,  on  the  side 
nearest  the  lake,  an  old  man  was  digging  with  his 
staff  amongst  the  ruins,  and  crouching  down  ex- 
amining the  dust  with  anxious  and  curious  search. 
I  gave  him  "  Bon  jour,"  and  he  answered  me  with 
a  German  accent,  which  showed  that  the  Tower  of 
Babel  had  accomplished  a  separation  between  us,  so 
far  as  concerns  speech.  So  I  did  not  attempt  to 
interrupt  him  in  his  strange,  sad,  anxious  search. 
Was  he  feeling  among  the  dust  after  some  mem- 
ory that  had  been  lost,  but  which  the  association 
of  place  had  half  revived  ? 

The  view  was  perfect.  Both  lakes  lay  beneath 
the  old  church  ;  on  either  side  one  of  them  always 
present.    How  placid,  and  how  blue  they  were  ; 


THE  SILENT 


RUIN. 


lonely  tower  opposes  itself.  The 
old  belfry  has  lost  its  roof,  and 
even  the  birds  have  deserted  the 


INTERLAKEN,  AND  THE  LAKES.  12Q 

and  how  safely  sheltered,  and  how  guarded  by  the 

everlasting  hills.    I  could  see  the  river,  too,  that 

unites  them  ;  not  a  quiet  or  a  straight  stream,  but 

a  pale,  unquiet,  turbulent,  and  somewhat  crooked 

stream.  And  here,  from  the  old  grave-yard,  amongst 

the  almost  forgotten  dead,  I  could  not  help  finding 

a  parable  in  that  most  striking 
THE   LAKES  AND      .  _        c  . 

A   picture.    Out  of  impenetrable 
THE    RLVER:    A    v  r 

STORY  OF  LIFE     rnystery  the  Lutschine  has  its 

birth,  and  forms  Lake  Brienz. 

For  a  little  while  its  waters  live  alone.    And  when 

their  task  is  done,  they  flow  on;  they  do  not  stop 

— death  is  not  a  termination,  but  only  a  narrow 

continuation — they  flow  on  through  the  pale  river, 

which  now  is  called  the  Aare — life  and  death  are 

only  different  names  of  the  same  stream  of  being 

— into  the  beautiful  Lake  Thun,  where  the  sunlight 

plays  in  freedom,  and  the  shadows  fall,  not  to 

darken,  but  adorn.   That  lake  flows  out  through  the 

Aare,  now  enlarged — not  changed,  but  continued 

and  made  majestic — it  flows  out  through  the  Rhine 

into  the  deep  sea  and  the  eternal  ocean.    Surely  I 

read  aright,  from  that  lonely  grave-yard,  the  story 

of    life.     From   mystery  and 
PARABLE  INTER-        ^ .  .     ,  ., 

nothing,  Life  passes  into  unend- 
PRETED.  b  1 

ing  being.    At  first,  a  life  con- 


I30  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

fined  and  limited  ;  at  last,  a  life  which  is  part  of 
the  great  ocean  of  God's  everlasting  existence. 
The  pale  river  separates,  but  connects  the  two. 
And  through  the  pale  river  every  life  continues  to 
flow  out  of  the  lake  of  mysterious  beginning,  into 
the  lake  of  revealed  immortality,  and  becomes  in- 
dissolubly  and  forever  a  part  of  the  boundless  life 
which  fills  eternity. 


XX. 


SCOTCH  DISESTABLISHMENT. 

IS  IT  RELATED  TO  DISESTABLISHMENT  IN 
ENGLAND  ? 

ONE  of  the  vexed  questions  of  the  day  is  the 
disestablishment  of  the  Scotch  Church.  A  class 
of  political  enemies  of  the  Church  of  England  is 
attempting  to  connect  this  question  with  that  of 
the  disestablishment  of  the  English  Church,  and 
to  make  the  accomplishment  of  one  a  stepping- 
stone  to  accomplish  the  other.  I  have,  of  course, 
been  desirous  to  understand  the  connection  be- 
tween the  two,  and  to  learn  whether  they  bore  any 
real  relations.  To-day,  the  opportunity  offered  it- 
self, of  comparing  my  opinions  as  formed  in  En- 
gland, with  those  which  have  been  formed  by  one 
thoroughly  conversant  with  the  subject,  and  who 
has  looked  at  it  as  a  Scotchman ;  inasmuch  as  a 
distinguished  member  of  the  Free  Kirk  conversed 
with  me  fully  on  the  topic,  giving  the  points  of  the 

case.    It  is  as  I  had  suspected.    The  questions 

(131) 


132  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

have  slight,  if  any,  relation  to  each  other.  A  dis- 
establishment of  the  Scotch  Kirk  may  occur,  with- 
out touching  the  grave  questions  that  would  be 
disturbed,  if  the  Church  of  England  were  to  be 
disestablished. 

The  Kirk  of  Scotland  has  been  held  to  the  Gov- 
ernment of  England  by  very  slight  bands,  and  has 

still  less  connection  with  the 
KIRK'S  BANDS  .  ,  ^, 

social  structure.     1  he  most  an- 

TO  THE  STATE. 

noyingof  their  grievances,  that 
of  Lay  Patronage,  was  settled  four  years  ago  by 
the  abolition  of  that  right.  The  relation  of  the 
civil  courts  to  ecclesiastical  jurisdiction  indeed  re- 
mains unsettled,  or  rather  is  still  unsatisfactory ; 
because  the  claim  of  the  courts,  and  the  several 
acts  of  Parliament  which  gave  freedom  to  the 
Scotch  Kirk,  seem  to  be  in  collision.  It  was  on 
this  point  that  the  Free  Kirk  made  its  stand.  They 
took  the  ground,  perfectly  familiar  to  us,  and  both 
Scriptural  and  just,  that  the  Church  has  the  right 
to  exercise  ecclesiastical  jurisdiction  untrammelled 
by  the  State  ;  that  the  State  should  protect  her  in 

that  right,  not  interfere  with 
TREE  KIRK  CON-  .  .    ,        ,     .  . 

„.  nor  override  her  decisions  ;  and 

TENTION. 

that   the   State  (civil  courts) 
should  intervene  only  when  civil  rights,  or  the  pe- 


SCOTCH  DISESTABLISHMENT.  133 

cuniary  interests  of  an  individual  member  (clerical 
or  lay)  are  invaded,  contrary  to  the  voluntary  com- 
pact. The  successful  resistance  of  the  Free  Kirk 
in  1843— their  sacrifices  and  brave  contention — had 
a  right  result.  It  was  a  moral  triumph,  always 
stronger  than  unrighteous  law.  So  that  although 
technically  their  claim  remains,  yet  the  civil  courts 
of  Scotland  do  not  practically  interfere  with  the 
spiritual  discipline  of  the  Established  Kirk.  Prac- 
tically— as  my  informant  thinks— the  Kirk  is  about 
as  free  from  civil  control  as  if  it  were  disestab- 
lished. The  only  other  band  of  the  Kirk  to  the 
State  is  that  of  pecuniary  support.  But  that  can 
hardly  be  deemed  a  part  of  the  question  of  dises- 
tablishment. For  the  Kirk  of  Scotland  is  sup- 
ported by  rentals  of  land, 
KIRK  PROPERTY.  .  .  .  , 

and  those  may  fairly  be  con- 
sidered a  portion  of  its  own  property.  If  dises- 
tablishment should  occur,  it  would  not  necessarily 
touch  this  relation  between  the  Church  and  its 
landed  property. 

The  Kirk  has  by  no  means  the  same  hold  on  the 
social  structure  in  Scotland,  as  the  Church  of  En- 
gland has  in  the  sister  kingdom.    The  Kirk  has  no 

universities  or  public  schools, 
KIRK  SOCIALLY.        •  .  ...  ,       „  . 

bearing  a  similar  relation  to 


134 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


the  State,  as  that  which  is  borne  by  the  universities 
and  schools  of  England.  A  few  chaplains  are  in 
the  army  with  the  Scotch  regiments ;  none  (as  I 
understood  him)  are  in  the  navy.  All  other  rela- 
tions of  the  Scotch  Kirk,  as  such,  to  society  are 
very  slight.  So  that,  in  the  first  place,  lay  pat- 
ronage, at  which  disestablishment  aims,  has  been 
already  abolished  ;  and  as  to  other  particulars, 
disestablishment  is  not  necessary,  for  they  have 
been  practically  gained  without  it.  Should  the 
event  occur,  it  would  give  no  shock  to  the  social 
structure  nor  to  the  State.  I  think  that  the  points 
are  thus  stated  fairly,  as  my  friend  presented  them 
this  morning.  At  least  such  is  the  impression  left 
on  my  mind. 

•  You  will  therefore  see  the  wide  difference  be- 
tween the  questions  in  the  two  countries.  They 
can  hardly  be  said  to  be  related.    Only  the  zeal  of 


England  is  not  tied  to,  but  is  part  of,  the  State ; 
and  is  knitted  in  with  every  fibre  of  society. 
Union  of  Church  and  State  in  England  is  not  the 
result  of  an  act  of  agreement,  a  covenant  uniting 


A  DISTINCTION 


DIFFERENCE. 


WITH  A 


partisans  and  the  blindness  of 
political  determination  could 
affirm  that  one  should  be  linked 
to  the  other.    The  Church  of 


SCOTCH  DISESTABLISHMENT. 


135 


them  as  in  Scotland ;  but  it  has  been  the  growth 
of  its  national  constitution.  Nor  is  there  any 
doubt  in  the  minds  of  the  wisest  and  most  thought- 
ful men  with  whom  I  have  had  opportunity  to  con- 
verse, that  disestablishment  in  England  means,  and 
must  be  followed  by,  destruction  of  the  Govern- 
ment. 

I  think  you  will  be  impressed  by  that  part  of  my 
friend's  opinion  which  referred  to  the  question  of 
State  support.  Our  daily  papers  at  home,  not  un- 
derstanding the  point  at  issue,  are  in  the  habit  of 
representing  the  Church  of  England  as  being  sup- 
ported by  the  State.  But  my  Scotch  friend  is 
right.    They  are  wrong.    The  Church  of  England, 


to  the  support  of  the  Church.  No  one  is  taxed 
for  it.  Every  poor  man  has  an  equal  right  with 
any  other  man  to  all  the  benefits  which  the  Church 
offers,  without  payment  of  a  penny." 

The  question  of  disendowment  is  a  distinct  and 
separate  question.  On  that  point  an  American 
may  have  strong  views,  and  express  them  strongly, 


SUPPORTED  BY 


X EITHER  KIRK 


NOR  CHURCH 


THE  STATE. 


like  the  Church  of  Scotland,  is 
supported  by  its  own  property. 
So  that  the  Archbishop  of 
York  said  rightly  :  "  The  State 
does  not  contribute  one  penny 


I  3  6  THE  CA  NTERBURY  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 

for  our  Constitution  protects  our  vested  rights. 
No  act  of  a  Legislature,  not  even  of  Congress,  can 
touch  those  rights. 

Disestablishment  in  Ireland  was  accompanied  by 
a  robbery  of  the  Church.  Circumstances,  such  as 
non-residence,  and  other  peculiar  questions,  threw 
a  shadow  of  right  over  a  grievous  wrong.  But  the 
actual  issue  is  becoming  evident  now  in  the  case  of 
the  Church  of  Scotland  ;  and  still  more  in  that  of 
the  Church  of  England.  Parliament  has  no  more 
right  (except  that  of  the  strong  hand)  to  dispossess 
either  Church  of  its  property,  than  the  Legislature 
of  New  York  has  to  confiscate  the  property  of  the 
Dutch  Collegiate  Church,  or  of  Trinity  Corporation. 

If  any  one  should  reply — that  at  the  Reforma- 
tion this  property  was  taken  from  the  Roman  Cath- 
olic Church  and  given  to  the  Church  of  England, 
and  that  disendowment  would  be  an  application  of 
the  lex  talionis,  it  is  obvious  enough  to  reply  that 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church  at  the  Reformation 
was  using  what  did  not  belong  to  it ;  that  it  had 
usurped  the  place  of  the  grand 

old  English  Church,  and  that  the 
USURP  A  TION.  b 

Reformation  only  restored  to  the 

Church  of  England  its  property.  If  the  Old  Cath- 
olics should   prevail   in   our   country,  the  same 


SCO  TCH  DISES TABLISHMENT.  \  3 7 

question  would  occur  that  has  been  already  decided 
in  favored  Switzerland.  The  Old  Catholics  being 
the  true  representatives  of  the  Catholic  Church, 
have  a  right  to  so  much  of  its  property  as  they  re- 
quire for  their  purposes.  So  the  Church  of  En- 
gland at  the  Reformation  merely  resumed  that 
which  the  Roman  Church  had  used  of  the  Church's 
property  during  the  Apostasy. 

This  illustration  is  scarcely  aside  from  the  pur- 
pose of  these  remarks.  In  a  question  of  separat- 
ing the  State  from  a  Church,  the  State  has  no  right 
to  take  the  property  of  that  Church,  nor  has  it  a 
right  to  distribute  the  property  among  citizens 
who  do  not,  and  never  did,  belong  to  that  Church, 
and  never  made  any  claim  to  membership.  The 
argument  may  be  left  just  where  my  clever  and 
judicious  friend  of  the  Free  Kirk  left  it.  Speaking 
of  the  Established  Kirk  of  Scotland,  he  said,  the 
Established  Kirk  is  supported  by  its  oivn property. 
Make  a  note  of  that.  The  property  which  sustains 
the  Kirk  or  the  Church  is  its  own  property.  It 
does  not  belong  to  the  State.    It  belongs  to  the 

Kirk,  or  the  Church,  to  whom, 
DISENDO  WMENT         ,  . 

ROBBERY  3  whose   uses,  it  was 

given  by  members  of  the  Kirk 
or  of  the  Church.  Disestablishment  is  a  question 
of  policy ;  but  disendowmcnt  is  robbery. 


XXI. 


RIGI-KULM. 

This  is  a  good  place  from  which  to  write  ;  for  we 
are  as  far  above  the  world  as  we  shall  probably  ever 
get — six  thousand  feet — and  are  as  thoroughly  shut 
in  from  all  distracting  scenes  as  we  can  ever  be  ; 

in  the  midst  of  a  cloud,  through 
A  SANCTUM.  . 

which  we  can  not  see  in  any  direc- 
tion further  than  six  feet.  Those  who  come  to  the 
Rigi  take  these  chances.  We  have  lighted  on  a 
stormy  season.  It  has  lasted,  with  storms  or  pre- 
vailing showers,  for  the  past  fortnight.  But  we 
have  had  some  bright  interludes;  and  since  we 
have  been  on  our  favorite  Rigi,  we  have  enjoyed 
some  views  which  fully  repay  all  the  trouble  of 
getting  here,  and  all  the  strange  uncomfortableness 
of  being  at  times  utterly  within  a  cloud. 

The  getting  here  was  an  experience.  On  a  lovely 
August  day,  we  left  Interlaken  for  the  Brunig  Pass, 

cn  route  to  Lucerne.  Bright  clouds 
THE  BRUNIG  j       .  ..  ,  ,  . 

and  dancing-  sunlight  marked  time 
PASS.  fa  b 

with  the  trot  of  our  wheel  horses, 

(13S) 


RIGI-KULM. 


1 39 


and  the  merry  bells  of  the  leaders.  As  we  as- 
cended the  hill,  Lake  Brienz  lay  tranquilly  below, 
sleeping  in  the  morning  calm.  But  before  we  had 
reached  that  point  on  the  shore  opposite  to  the 
Geisbach  Falls,  where  the  full  view  of  them  begins, 
ripples  on  the  lake  had  become  wavelets,  and  these 
were  turning  into  decided  waves.  A  breeze  from 
the  north  was  becoming  a  wind  ;  the  sun  was  tak- 
ing shelter  beneath  a  storm-cloud,  and  stray  drops 
were  warning  us  that  our  hopes  of  a  pleasant  ex- 


delight  ;  and  nothing  could  have  been  grander  than 
the  approach  of  the  thunder  shower,  as  it  came 
rushing  down  the  lake,  after  having  first  shut  in 
Interlaken,  and  the  Aare,  and  the  snow  mountains 
on  both  sides.  A  sort  of  yellowish  hue  pervaded 
it,  as  if  the  sun  were  retiring  very  unwillingly  from 
the  scene,  and  were  striving  still  to  show  himself 
through  the  falling  drops.  Quick  flashes  began  to 
split  the  yellow  mass.  Thunders  reverberated,  and 
white  waves  dashed  along  the  shore.   Just  then  the 


A  SUMMER 


SHO  WER. 


cursion  were  doomed  to  disappoint- 
ment. But  where  one  has  an  eye 
for  nature,  even  her  fitfulness  yields 


THE  GIESBA  CH. 


FALLS  OF 


Giesbach  came  into  sight.  In 
all  its  marvellous  beauty  we 
could  see  it,  leaping  from  rock 


140 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


to  rock,  a  succession  of  water-falls,  from  the  top 
of  the  mountain  until  it  reached  the  lake ;  now  to 
the  right,  now  to  the  left ;  now  springing  outward, 
now  hiding  behind  a  jutting  crag ;  then  bounding 
over  it,  dashing  every  several  face  of  it  with  merry 
drops  ;  then  filling  the  air  with  mist  ;  then  gather- 
ing itself  again  into  a  solemn  torrent ;  and  all  its 
silver  sheen  more  brilliant  because  of  the  sombre 
storm  that  was  pressing  it  closer  and  closer.  Sud- 
denly it  was  gone.  The  black  rain  was  on  us  ;  and 
we  hurried,  with  the  sweet  memory  of  the  vision, 
into  our  pent-house  of  a  carriage.     Nor  did  the 

pitiless  storm  leave  us  until  we  drove 
STORM.   .  .        ,  ,  , 

into  Lucerne  at  nine  o  clock  at  night, 

for  only  then  the  stars  were  beginning  to  blink 

wearily  at  the  gaslights  of  the  city. 

The  next  morning  was  promising.  We  crossed 
Lake  Lucerne  in  a  steamer  to  the  hamlet,  where 
we  take  the  rail  for  Rigi.  What  a  change  since  we 
last  saw  these  quiet  mountains  and  the  rocks  of 
the  wild  goats  !    What  a  profanation 

PRCCUL!    of  these  soiemn  solitudes!  What 

O  PROCUL,  ,  .  m-  , 

mean,  thin,  shrill  shrieks  afflict  the 
PROFAXI!  '  ' 

air,  where  we  had  once  listened  only 
to  the  grand  notes  of  the  Switzer's  alpine  horn,  or 
the  echoes  of  rebounding  rocks  as  they  leaped 


RIGI-KULM.  141 

down  toward  the  lake,  or  the  reverberations  of  ice 
torrents  falling  from  distant  glaciers! 

Nevertheless,  it  was  convenient.  There  the  whole 
paraphernalia  was  lying  in  wait— 

CONVENIENCE  tail  carriage,  loco- 

VtrSUS  motive,  and  complacent  porter 

SUBLIMITY.     __exceedjngiy  complaisant  for  a 

franc  !    And  this  was  at  the  foot  of  the  Rigi ! 
The  road  is  a  marvel.    Happily,  at  least  we  can 
say,  it  is  no  ordinary  railroad.  At 
RIGI       times  it  is  frightfully  steep.   It  seems 

RAILROAD.    ^  ^  He  ^  ^  angk  Qf         Qr  ^ 

The  locomotive  pushes  the  carriage  up-hill,  and 
when  returning  descends  in  front  of  it.    Only  one 
carriage  is  used,  but  it  holds  fifty-four  persons.  If 
more  passengers  are  waiting,  another  carriage  and 
locomotive  follow  the  first  at  a  safe  interval.  Be- 
tween the  rails  a  line  of  cogs  is  laid.    A  cog-wheel 
beneath  the  carriage  fits  into  them,  and  the  driving 
wheel  of  the  locomotive  is  a  larger  cog-wheel  fit- 
ting into,  and  getting  its  purchase  within,  the  same 
line  of  cogs.    The  road  is  perfectly  safe.    It  does 
not  seem  possible  for  an  accident  to  occur.    It  runs 
near  enough  to  the  cliffs  to  afford  a  series  of  grand 
pictures  foreshadowing  that  which  is  in  store  for 
travellers  when  they  arrive  at  the  summit. 


142  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

It  is  not  strange  that  crowds  of  sight- 

VI ELDS  TO 


:  seers,  and  even  of  the  nobler  race- 


observant  travellers — ascend  the  Rigij 

EASE.  s 

Since  the  railroad  was  opened  the 

number  has  been  nearly  doubled.    Although  the 

old  romance  of  Swiss  travelling  is  taken  away  by  it, 

convenience  is  furthered.    Previously,  at  least  an 

alpenstock  was  needed,  and  coarse  boots  and  strong 

limbs  and  a  toilsome  trudge  of  three  or  four  hours. 

The  last  time  we  ascended  we  were  a  party  of  eight. 

Two  of  the  ladies  used  chaiscs-a-portcur,  with  four 

men  to  carry  each.    The  rest  rode  horses  or  mules, 

with  a  guide  for  each,  and  there  were  two  mules 

for  baggage,  with  a  man  for  the  two.    So  that  the 

caravan  summed  up  twenty-nine  persons,  and  eight 

mules  or  horses,  for  a  party  of  eight  with  luggage. 

Now  we  two,  with  baggage,  ascended  the  mountain 

in  one  hour  and  a  half,  in  a  comfortable  carriage, 

enjoying  every  moment  without  any  possible  fatigue. 

The  Archbishop  of  Canterbury  and 
CLERICAL.   ....     „  .,   ,  , 

his  family  availed  themselves  of  the 

railroad,  and  spent  the  night  at  this  hotel — the 
Schreiber.  It  is  one  of  the  most  systematically 
conducted  hotels  which  we  have  seen  in  Switzer- 
land. All  its  appointments  are  comfortable,  and 
its  public  rooms  elegant. 


RIGI-KULM. 


H3 


We  have  this  moment  parted  with  the  Bishop  of 
Iowa  (Dr.  Perry)  and  his  party,  who  have  spent  a 
few  hours  here.  He  is  to  preach  in  Lucerne  on 
Sunday.  We  have  also  met  several  English  clergy- 
men ;  and  one  of  the  brightest  lights  in  the  famous 
galaxy  which  adorned  and  gave  success,  under  God, 
to  the  Free  Kirk  of  Scotland — Rev.  Dr.  Blackie, 
of  Edinburgh.  An  English  service  will  be  held  to- 
morrow (Sunday)  at  the  Rigi  Kaltbad,  a  sanitary 
hotel,  which  is  situated  on  the  west  face  of  the 
mountain,  about  three  miles  down  along  the  rail 
track.  I  shall  gather  the  English  and  Americans 
who  may  choose  it,  around  me  here,  while  we  have 
our  familiar  worship  together. 

THE  RIGI. 

The  mountain  called  the  Rigi,  rises  to  the  height 
of  nearly  6,000  feet  (5,905  actually).    It  is  situated 
as  a  sentinel  directly  in  front  of  the  great  Pass 
over  the  St.  Gothard  into  Italy. 

THE  MOUNTAIN    t-.,  ,  ,       ,  . 

Eleven  lakes  have  gathered  a|- 

OF  THE  fa 
PANORAMA.        itS  ^00t'     Indeed>  lakes  lle  a11 
around  it,  except  on  the  south 

side,  where  its  slopes  are  connected  by  a  narrow 

high  ridge  with  the  St.  Gothard  and  its  neighbor 

mountains.     Close  under  the  Rigi  you  see  the 


144  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

three  lakes  known  generally  as  Lake  Lucerne,  be- 
side the  Lakes  of  Zug  and  Lowerz.  The  north 
side  of  the  mountain  is  precipitous.  The  south 
side  is  a  series  of  wide  terraces  and  gentle  slopes, 
full  of  fig,  chestnut,  and  almond  trees,  and  covered 
with  fresh  green  pastures  that  support  4,000  head 
of  cattle.  The  celebrated  peak,  the  Kulm  or  Top, 
commands  a  panorama  300  miles  in  circumference. 
We  have  nothing  with  which  to  compare  it,  except 
the  view  from  the  Catskill  Mountain  House.  Yet 
that,  grand  as  it  is,  is  only  a  view  from  the  front ; 
forty  miles  in  breadth,  by  150  or  160  from  north  to 
south  ;  probably  in  this  latter  dimension  greater 
than  any  one  line  of  view  from  the  Rigi,  and,  as  a 
valley  view,  nowhere  surpassed  within  my  range 
of  observation.  But  think  of  getting  a  circumfer- 
ence of  300  miles  !  Here  we  look  all  around  us, 
and  on  every  side  see  objects  of  surpassing  interest, 
and  of  unsurpassed  loveliness  or  majesty. 

North  are  the  plains  of  Switzer- 

THE  PLAIN. 

land,  studded  by  lakes,  threaded 
by  rivers,  adorned  by  forests  ;  while  cities,  towns, 
and  villages  appear  in  every  direction,  and  in  every 
accessible  spot  is  a  chdlet  and  a  farm.  This  view 
extends  beyond  Berne  almost  to  Basle,  and  quite 
to  the  high  hills  of  the  Black  Forest,  while  the 


RIGr-k'UI.M.  !45 

cities  of  Lucerne  and  Zurich  and  the  town  of  Zug 
lie  almost  at  one's  feet.  To  the  north-east  the  eye 
catches  the  location  of  Constance.  To  the  east  a 
succession  of  dark  rocks  and  mountain  peaks,  with 
some  snow  summits,  carry  the  eye  beyond  where 
Chur  (Coire)  hides  itself  in  the  valleys.  To  the 
north-west  the  Jura  mountains  show  themselves  ; 
and  you  know  that  Neufchatel  and  its  beautiful 
lakes  are  there,  although  you  can  not  distinguish 
them.  A  little  more  to  the  west,  Pilatus  discovers 
his  black  and  ragged  peaks.  Then  you  turn  round 
toward  the  south. 

From  one  extremity  to  the  other  of  a  semicircle 
which  is  150  miles  in  extent,  is  a 

ICE  CLIFFS. 

succession  of  the  grandest  ice  cliffs  ; 
mountains  ranging  from  8,000  to  12,000  feet  in 
height,  presenting  every  varied  form  of  grandeur 
and  sublimity  which  the  terrible  forces  of  nature 
could  produce,  by  volcanic  outthrow,  or  pressure  of 
internal  heat,  or  glacial  abrasion.  From  Sentis  on 
the  far  east,  past  Glarnish,  and  Todi,  and  the  double 
peak  of  the  Scheerhorn,  and  the  sharp  pyramid  of 
the  Bristenstock,  to  Titlis ;  and  then  to  the  range 
of  the  Bernese  Oberland  with  which  Murren  has 
already  made  us  familiar.  With  a  good  glass  one 
can  see  glaciers  in  every  rift  of  all  these  mountain 
7 


I46  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

peaks.  The  eye  never  tires  of  such  a  view  ;  for  it 
possesses  infinite  variety,  and  combines  every  ele- 
ment of  grandeur  or  of  the  picturesque.  Crags, 
and  water-falls,  and  ice  rivers,  and  hoary  summits, 
and  black  rock  precipices  ;  and  on  the  other  side, 
sweet  valleys,  and  peaceful  rivers,  and  sleeping 
lakes,  and  browsing  sheep,  and  cattle  on  a  thousand 
hills,  and  forests  in  everlasting  verdure,  and  wooded 
slopes  with  summer  shades  ;  and  everywhere  the 
evidences  of  life,  and  thrift,  and  human  activity. 
What  can  a  painter  want  more  ?  What  can  a 
moralist  desire  besides  ?  What  can  a  child  of  God 
need  else  to  draw  his  heart,  in  adoration  or  in  lov- 
ing awe,  to  the  Creator  and  Father  of  all  ? 


XXII. 


SUNRISE  AND  SUNSET  ON  THE  RIGI. 

Fifty  thousand  persons  come  to  the  Rigi  every 

year.    Most  of  them  come  to  see  the  sun  rise  upon 

this  grand  panorama,  or  to  witness  the  sun  set. 

Many  go  down  again,  having  seen   nothing  but 

clouds.    But  the  fortunate  ones  are  in  sufficient 

numbers  to  secure  a  full  supply  to  take  subsequent 

chances.    We  have  thus  far  had  no  visible  sunrise, 

although  we  have  remained  here  already  for  six 

days ;  but  we  have  a  remembrance  from  our  visit 

eleven  years  ago,  which  can  not  be  effaced.    It  is 

possible  at  such  moments  to  realize  that  Persian 

Magi  and  Peruvian  worshippers  could  bow  in  awe 

before  the  god  of  day. 

On  that  morning  the  sky  was  fair. 
A  SUNRISE.    „      K ,  . 

The  Alpine  horn,  which  sounds  one 

hour  before  day,  had  called  us  to  the  Kulm,  not  at 
all  unwilling.  Dawn  had  brought  the  whole  mag- 
nificent panorama  into  rosy  light.  But,  as  we 
were  watching  for  the  sun  to  come  from  behind  the 

(147) 


148 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


Glaarnish,  a  mist  rose  stealthily  from  the  valley, 
creeping  on  us  before  we  perceived  it,  and  had  en- 
tirely enveloped  the  scene  below,  and  even  had 
wrapped  our  feet  unnoticed ;  so  eagerly  were  we 
watching  for  the  sun.  We  were  about  to  turn 
away  in  despair ;  most  of  the  crowd  did  turn,  and 
go  to  breakfast.  We,  however,  remained  for  a  few 
moments,  hoping  against  hope  ;  when,  as  the  vapor 
rose  above  our  heads,  the  sun  rose  also.  We  caught 
the  first  full  rays  through  the  light  fleecy  cloud  ; 
and  behold  !  it  was  "surrounded  by  a  halo  of  rosy 
light.  As  we  gazed  in  wonder,  the  mist  and  the 
sun  continuing  to  rise  together,  the  halo  round 


we  had  counted  five  colors  of  the  spectrum,  one 
after  the  other ;  robing,  veiling,  and  adorning  the 
sun.  Surely  the  Bridegroom  never  came  out  of  his 
chamber  in  more  glorious  apparel.  Then  the  mist 
had  risen  so  high  that  the  face  of  the  sun  faded  and 
disappeared. 

Wondering ;  not  thinking  that  anything  more 
could  come  ;  yet  wishing  for  we  knew  not  what,  we 
lingered.  In  less  than  half  an  hour  this  light  haze 
had  blown  away.    But  a  mass  of  cloud  was,  by  that 


AUREOLA. 


SUN  LN 


the  sun  gradually  turned  to  yellow. 
And  as  they  rose  a  little  higher,  other 
colors  appeared   in  succession,  until 


SUNRISE  AND  SUNSET  ON  THE  RIGI. 


149 


time,  covering  everything  below  the  top  of  the 
Rigi.  It  rested  apparently  not  twenty  feet  under- 
neath us  ;  leaving  just  the  peak  where  we  were 
standing,  projecting  above  the  snowy  ocean,  like  a 
lonely  rock  in  the  midst  of  billows.  For  it  was  a 
billowy  sea.  Rather,  it  seemed  as  if  we  were  realiz- 
ing some  of  the  stories  of  Arctic  adventurers. 

Masses  of  snow,  in  cloud-waves  and 
AN  ARCTIC     ,    •      .        I,  -  ,  , 

drifts,  lay  all  around  us,  and  surged 
SCENE.  '     J  '  s 

up  to  the  very  foot  of  the  line  of 
the  mountains.  And  then,  above  this  plain,  the 
ice  cliffs  raised  their  peaks.  And  on  them  shone 
the  sun.  In  all  this  circumference  there  were  only 
those  four  objects:  the  little  pinnacle  on  which  we 
were  standing  ;  an  immense  ocean  of  snow  billows 
surrounding  us;  the  line  of  ice  summits  at  whose 
foot  its  waves  were  stayed  ;  and  the  sun,  lighting 
every  crest,  and  tingeing  every  ice  dome,  or  peak, 
with  crimson.  The  vision  faded,  but  the  remem- 
brance remains  fresh  as  if  it  were  of  yesterday. 

The  mists  play  strange  freaks  sometimes.  As 
you  may  imagine  from  what  I  have  written,  they 
are  an  important  element  in  these 

MIRAGE. 

mountain  scenes.  Last  evening,  not 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  sunset,  the  sun  unex- 
pectedly broke  from  the  clouds.    But  soon  a  jeal- 


j^O  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

ous  haze  dimmed  the  prospect.  It  rolled  off  to  the 
east,  and  settled  on  a  hill  above  Lowerz.  It  hap- 
pened that  I  was  standing,  at  the  moment,  on  the 
edge  of  the  hill  directly  between  the  sun  and  the 
mist,  looking  toward  Lowerz.  I  saw  on  the  top  of 
that  hill,  the  Kleine  Mythe,  the  figure  of  a  gigantic 
man.  Raising  my  hat  to  greet  him,  he  raised  his. 
Waving  my  hat  in  reply  to  his  salute,  he  waved 
his.  As  I  moved,  he  moved.  But  the  singularity 
of  this  mirage  was,  that  he  stood  encircled  with 
colors.  They  were  not  regularly  arranged  as  in  the 
rainbow,  but  were  mingled ;  sometimes  green, 
sometimes  violet,  but  red  prevailing. 

But  speaking  of  sunsets.   A  hundred 
A  SUNSET.  . 

times  you  may  ascend  the  Rigi,  and 

not  see  one  equal  in  glory  to  that  which  greeted  us 
on  the  evening  of  our  arrival.  It  had  been  cloudy 
all  day.  A  sharp  wind  was,  however,  chasing  the 
vapors  across  the  Kulm.  Every  now  and  then  the 
prospect  would  open.  A  heavy  black  cloud  lay  on 
the  western  horizon.  There  seemed  to  be  an  inter- 
val of  clear  sky  near  the  horizon,  but  we  could  not 
assure  ourselves  of  it,  because  above  that  interval, 
and  a  little  below  the  line  of  vision,  but  far  off  from 
our  mountain,  was  the  blackest  of  clouds,  which 
thoroughly  hid  the  sun.    Suddenly  we  were  at- 


SUNRISE  AND  SUNSET  ON  THE  RIGI. 

tracted  by  what  seemed  to  be  a  flash  of  forked 
lightning  running  along  the  valley  between  Berne 
and  Lucerne.  Its  winding  course  added  to  the 
illusion.  But  it  was  not  a  flash.  It  stayed.  It  was 
the  river  Reuss,  which  had  suddenly  been  smitten 
by  the  rod  of  God,  and  been  turned  into  molten 
gold.  Then  the  flash  came  across  Lake  Lucerne, 
and  it  gleamed  with  the  alchemy 

ALCHEMY. 

of  heaven ;  and  became  as  pure 
gold,  in  which  the  Refiner  could  see  His  own 
glory  reflected.  Every  fleecy  cloud  began  to  ac- 
cept the  radiance,  and  became  as  a  tissue  of  woven 
gold.  The  black  cloud  that  hid  the  sun  showed 
edges  of  silver,  which  soon  turned  to  crimson,  and 
they  also  swiftly  changed  to  gold.  The  sun,  still 
hidden  from  us,  poured  his  flood  of  light  full  upon 
the  cloud  that  lined  the  horizon  ;  and  it  became  as 
gold.  At  last  the  hill-tops  caught  the  radiancy, 
and  the  valleys  were  filled  with  glory.  The  cloud 
still  hid  the  sun  from  us,  and  from  the  snow  mount- 
ains. They  were  as  cold  in  color  as  in  ice,  forming 
a  striking  contrast  to  the  rest  of  the  scene. 

At  last  the  sun  came  down  below  the  cloud,  just 
before  his  setting.  Then  one  of  those  merry  mists, 
which  had  been  swaying  above  Lake  Lucerne, 
caught  him,  and  wrapping  its  fleecy  veil  around 


1 5  2  THE  CA  N  TEA'S  UR  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 

him,  the  royal  sun  became  as  silver;  and  then  in 
an  instant  he  turned  pale  as  the  moon.  It  was  only 
for  a  moment,  for  the  mist  repented,  and  rolled 
away  as  suddenly  as  it  came.  But  no  sooner  had 
the  sun  shown  himself  clearly  than  the  mist  began  its 
play  again  ;  enveloping  the  sun,  then  dancing  to- 
ward us,  or  shrinking  away  from  us — in  reality  be- 
coming denser  or  lighter;  and,  at  every  change  of 
density,  presenting  the  sun  either  in  pale  silver,  or 
in  a  crimson  glow,  or  in  burning  gold.  Then  it  di- 
vided, dashing  into  two  clouds,  which  arranged 
themselves  on  either  side  of  the  sun,  like  two 

mighty   angels   standing  each 
TWO  ANGELS.         &    }        &  to 

with  a  foot  on  the  Lucerne  sea : 

but  light,  floating  and  bright,  as  spirits  of  heaven. 
The  glowing  sun,  .hastening  to  his  setting,  now 
burst  on  all  the  features  of  the  landscape,  covering 
the  whole  lower  surface  of  the  cloud  from  which 
he  had  emerged  with  an  effulgence  beyond  any- 
thing which  my  eyes  ever  looked  on,  and  no  mortal, 
except  John  Bunyan,  has  ever  found  words  to  de- 
scribe. Looking  up — above  the  cloud  and  nearer 
the  mountains — the  sky  had  meanwhile  become  al- 
most clear.  It  appeared  as  the  "  body  of  heaven  " 
for  purity.  The  black  mountains  for  a  background, 


SUNRISE  AND  SUV  SET  ON  THE  RIG  I.  153 

tipped  by  pale  ice ;  the  heavens  above  serenely 
blue,  and  everything  below  them — lake,  river,  plain,, 
clouds,  and  setting  sun,  one  flood  of  flashing  gold — 
could  any  earthly  scene  more  fully  represent  the 
glorious  Majesty  of  God  ? 


XXIII. 


RESULTS  OF  THE  CONFERENCE  AT 
LAMBETH. 

Rigi-Kulm,  September. 

In  estimating  the  results  of  the  late  Conference 
at  Lambeth,  it  is  important  to  recollect  that  it  was 
not  a  Synod.  It  was  not  intended  that  it  should 
assume  synodal  functions,  nor  that  its  decisions 
should  take  any  canonical  character.  It  was  not  a 
Council,  but  simply  a  Conference.  Consequently, 
its  influence  is  moral. 

But  was  not  its  power  greater  on  this  account? 
Perhaps  it  is  too  late  to  argue  this  question.  Mem- 
bers of  the  Church,  on  both  sides  of  the  ocean, 
have  differed  widely  concerning  it.  Some  declined 
to  attend  (so  it  was  understood),  because  the  de- 
cisions, not  being  canons,  would  become,  as  they 
supposed,  a  "  brutum  fulmcn."  Some  would  not 
have  attended  had  its  decisions  been  intended  to 
assume  the  shape  of  canons  ;  because  they  deemed 
that  a  council  of  Bishops  alone  without  the  presby- 
tery, or  the  laity,  does  not  represent  the  Church, 

(154) 


RESUL  TS  OF  THE  LAM  BE  TH  CONFERENCE.  \  5  5 

and  could  not  act  for  it.  And  this  opinion  was  not 
confined  to  a  few  only  of  Bishops  from  our  own 
country.  Some  Bishops  in  England  hesitated  to 
attend,  until  its  character  was  distinctly  defined ; 
and  it  may  be  safely  affirmed  that  the  majority  of 
the  Bishops  present  would  not  even  have  gone 
so  far  as  to  issue  an  Encyclical  Letter.  We  are  to 
judge  of  the  results  of  the  Conference,  therefore, 
entirely  from  their  moral  weight.  Among  these 
results  I  name — 

I.  EXTENT  OF  THE  CHURCH. 

An  impression  of  the  extent  of  the  Protestant 
Episcopal  Church  in  its  affiliations  with  the  Mother 
Church  of  England'.  Take  a  map  of  the  world, 
and  trace  the  localities,  of  this  Church.  Many  in 
England  have  done  so  for  the  first  time,  and  have 
risen  from  that  study  astonished.  One  hundred 
Bishops  assembling  around  the  Archiepiscopal  seat 
of  Canterbury,  represented  one  hundred  and 
eighty-four  who  are  united  with  this  Church. 
These  are  working  Bishops.  They  represent  Dio- 
ceses. Run  your  eye  down  the  coast  of  North 
America,  beginning  at  Labrador,  until  you  reach 
the  southern  boundary  of  Texas,  then  across  to 
the  Pacific,  and  up  to  Rupert's  Land,  and  then 


156  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

across  to  Labrador  again.  Over  every  foot  of 
land  included  within  that  area  a  Diocese  or  Mis- 
sionary District  extends ;  and  the  supervision  of 
the  interests  of  Christ's  kingdom  within  it,  is  not 
nominal,  but  real.  The  zeal  and  hard  work  of  the 
Bishops  of  Algoma,  Athabasca,  and  Saskatchewan, 
in  the  almost  heathen  district  of  British  North- 
western America,  are  emulated  by  the  Bishops  of 
Nevada,  Colorado,  and  Texas  ;  are  indeed  only  a 
fair  specimen  of  the  earnestness  which  characterizes 
the  whole  seventy-six  Bishops  of  the  North  Ameri- 
can Continent. 

Then  let  your  eye  pass  down  among  the  islands 
on  the  Atlantic  coast.  From  one  to  another, 
through  the  Bermudas  and  the  West  Indies,  six 
Dioceses,  including  Haiti,  almost  touch  each  other. 
It  will  then  be  a  long  leap  to  the  Falkland  Islands; 
but  there  you  have  a  Bishop  whose  labors  extend 
to  every  spot  on  the  South  American  continent,  on 
both  sides,  as  yet  accessible  to  the  influence  of  our 
Church. 

Then,  starting  at  San  Francisco,  let  your  eye 
move  across  the  Pacific.  At  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
among  the  Melanasian  groups,  at  New  Zealand 
and  in  Australia,  you  find  nineteen  Dioceses. 
Go  up  to  Japan,  to  the  east  coast  and  the  west 


RESULTS  OF  THE  LAM  BETH  CONFERENCE.  157 

of  China,  and  to  Ceylon,  missionary  Bishops  are 
there.  The  great  Peninsula  of  India  is  covered 
by  Dioceses.  Take  the  overland  route  by  the 
Isthmus  and  the  Suez  Canal ;  at  Jerusalem,  at  Alex- 
andria and  Cairo,  at  Ceylon  and  Malta,  and  Gibral- 
tar you  find  our  Bishops.  Studying  the  map  still, 
and  Letting  your  eye  move  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Red  Sea  down  the  east  coast  of  Africa  until  oppo- 
site to  Madagascar ;  on  that  island,  and  on  the 
Continent  until  you  reach  the  Cape,  Dioceses  touch 
each  other.  Up,  above  the  Cape,  toward  the  inte- 
rior are  several  Dioceses ;  and  now  in  Central  and 
Southeastern  Africa  missionary  jurisdictions  have 
been  established  ;  for  one  of  them,  the  Diocese  of 
Pretoria,  a  Bishop  has  lately  been  consecrated.  The 
upper  boundary  of  these  Dioceses  may  at  some 
time  be  touched  by  Bishop  Penick,  if  he  pursues  his 
way  inland  with  the  same  zeal  with  which  he  has 
labored  on  the  West  Coast.  On  that  West  Coast 
of  Africa  we  have  one,  and  the  English  Church  has 
two  Bishops.  At  St.  Helena  you  find  another. 
And,  going  north,  your  eye  reaches  the  Mother 
Church  in  her  island  home,  where  on  either  side 
she  has  affiliated  with  herself  the  Dioceses  that 
cover  Ireland  and  Scotland. 

One  result  of  this  Conference,  and  not  the  least, 


I  5  8  THE  CA  N  TERB  UR  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 

has  been  an  awakening  of  attention  to  these  facts. 
The  men  of  this  age  are  not  easily  aroused  by  any- 
thing which  relates  to  the  kingdom  of  Christ,  yet 
here  are  facts  which  have  startled  men.  This 
Church,  which  once — and  that  not  many  years  ago 
— was  confined  to  the  narrow  bounds  of  the  United 
Kingdom,  is  now  spread  world  wide.  The  Con- 
ference has  led  to  a  realization  of  this  fact. 

2.  UNITY. 

An  impression  of  the  substantial  unity  of  this 
Church.  One  hundred  Bishops  communed  to- 
gether at  Lambeth.  They  represented  the  religious 
opinions  of  one  hundred  and  eighty-four  Dioceses, 
from  four  distinct  and  independent  Churches,  ac- 
customed to  use  four  distinct  Liturgies.  Individ- 
ually they  held  every  shade  of  theological  or  eccle- 
siastical views  which  is  known  to  be  compatible 
with  the  most  liberal  interpretation  of  the  standards 
of  the  Church  of  England.  Not  convened  nor 
held  together  by  human  authority,  each  one  of  the 
members  being  an  entirely  independent  Diocesan, 
each  owing  allegiance  to  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ 
alone,  these  hundred  Bishops  met  voluntarily,  con- 
tinued for  a  month  to  discuss  important,  and  many 
of  them  vital,  topics,  both  of  doctrine  and  disci- 


RESULTS  OF  THE  LAMBETH  CONFERENCE.  \  59 

pline,  often  differed  in  opinion,  and  expressed  their 
sentiments  freely ;  yet  at  the  end  agreed  in  their 
conclusions  with  a  unanimity  not  marred  by  one 
unpleasant  feeling.  The  world  has  not  misjudged 
in  its  verdict  that  this  is  unity. 

3.  POWER. 

An  impression  of  the  power  possessed  by  this 
Church.  A  distinguished  Ecclesiastic  of  the  Church 
of  Rome,  after  the  close  of  the  former  Conference 
at  Lambeth — that  of  1867 — is  said  to  have  declared 
that  it  was  "  the  greatest  blow  to  the  Roman  power 
since  the  Reformation."  But  if  that  which  was 
merely  a  tentative  gathering  possessed  such  influ- 
ence in  one  direction,  will  not  a  greater  influence, 
in  more  than  one  direc  ion,  be  produced  by  this, 
which  was  a  gathering,  not  experimental,  but  prac- 
tical, and  for  positive  work  ?  Such  a  Church  is  a 
power.  The  members  of  the  Conference  realized 
it  in  a  manner  never  felt  before.  Some  of  them 
did  not  hesitate  to  say  that  the  idea  was  as  novel 
as  it  was  true.  One  Bishop  of  the  English  Church 
said  to  me — "  the  presence  and  influence  of  the 
American  Bishops,  and  the  sight  of  these  Colonial 
Bishops  from  all  ends  of  the  earth,  as  well  as  the 
discussions  of  these  last  six  weeks,  have  made  me 


l6o  TIIF-  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


realize  the  Catholicity  of  the  Church,  in  a  manner 
which  I  had  thought  to  be  impossible."  Such  a 
Church  does  certainly  possess  untold  power  for  use- 
fulness. Its  influence  is  greater  because  it  is  not 
organic,  but  moral.  Not  proceeding  from  the  mere 
power  of  organization  like  that  of  the  Roman 
Church,  but  the  result  of  spiritual  forces  whose  co- 
ordination and  co-operation  characterize  the  Church 
Catholic.  With  the  exception  of  perhaps  thirty 
Bishops,  none  have  political  relations  or  political 
influence.  Yet  who  can  doubt  that  the  sentiment 
of  the  Church  in  all  these  communities  largely 
sways  public  opinion  ?  Comparing  the  testimony 
of  these  Bishops,  it  was  concluded  that  the 
Churches  represented  in  the  Anglican  Communion, 
really  represented  the  most  influential  classes  of 
society  throughout  the  world  ;  taking  into  con- 
sideration, both  education,  social  position,  wealth, 
and  the  opportunity  to  move  all  orders  and  de- 
grees of  men. 

It  was  a  humiliating  thought.  For  the  question 
at  once  arose  in  our  minds,  how  little  has  our 
Church  employed  this  power.  What  have  we  done 
for  the  glory  of  Christ,  for  the  salvation  of  man- 
kind, for  the  amelioration  of  the  woes  of  humanity? 
Nor  did  the  statistics  of  churches  built,  and  mis- 


RESUL  TS  OF  THE  LAMBETH  CONFERENCE.  161 


sions  sustained,  and  all  sorts  of  benevolences  foster- 
ed, and  wealth  bestowed  by  millions,  alleviate  the 
sense  of  humiliation.  For  this  great  fact  still  stood 
before  us — the  untold  amount  of  unused  power 
within  this  Church.  But  there  is  a  hopeful  side  of 
it.  If  this  Church  can  be  made  to  realize  its  Prov- 
idential position,  and  will  seize  its  opportunities, 
there  is  scarcely  a  limit  to  its  achievements  ;  for 
there  seems  to  be  no  measure  for  its  power. 

4.  FRIMITIVENESS. 

An  impression  of  the  primitiveness  of  this  organ- 
ization. For  it  was  perceived  that  in  the  Anglican 
Communion  is  realized  the  original  structure  of  the 
Church  ;  that  is  to  say,  that  within  it  are  well- 
organized  Dioceses,  independent  of  each  other,  yet 
bound  together  by  a  common  faith,  acting  in  con- 
cert, not  by  the  force  of  an  earthly  centre  of  unit}-, 
but  by  conference  under  the  guidance  of  the  Holy 
Ghost,  and  in  subjection  to  the  one  Head,  our  Lord 
Jesus  Christ.  This  is  primitive.  Such  union, 
organization,  and  concerted  action,  among  inde- 
pendent Dioceses,  is  precisely  according  to  the 
Apostolic  and  Scriptural  model.  The  realization 
of  this  possibility  in  the  nineteenth  century  has 
been  one  of  the  astonishments  resulting  to  the 


162  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

public  mind  in  England  from  this  Conference.  Per- 
haps thoughtful  persons,  on  our  side  of  the  ocean, 
may  find  in  the  fact  a  subject  for  serious  and  grate- 
ful reflection. 

5.  MISSIONARY  WORK. 

An  impression  of  the  reality  and  vastness  of  the 
missionary  labors  of  this  Church.  It  is  little  known 
in  America  that  the  Scotch  Episcopal  Church,  and 
the  Church  in  Ireland,  are  engaged  in  missions,  dis- 
tinctively their  own.  It  was  little  understood  in 
England  how  largely  our  American  Church  was  en- 
gaged in  missions ;  nor  that  in  at  least  one  case 
where  the  English  Church  has  sent  Bishops,  our 
Bishops  were  already  on  the  ground.  It  was  not 
generally  understood  in  England  that  our  missions 
at  home  covered  all  the  territory  of  the  United 
States ;  and  that  we  had  been  pioneers  of  the  Gos- 
pel in  Africa,  China,  and  Japan.  It  was  an  agree- 
able surprise  to  many  that  we  had  encouraged  the 
formation  of  a  national  church  in  Haiti,  and  in 
Mexico  ;  and  had  forborne  to  impose  on  either  of 
them  any  trammels,  except  in  what  is  essential  to 
unity.  The  new  application  of  this  old  apostolical 
idea  was  seized  with  avidity,  and  our  proposals  to 
apply  the  principle,  as  soon  as  circumstances  would 


RESUL  TS  OF  THE  LAMBETH  CONFERENCE.  ^3 

justify,  to  other  missions,  was  adopted  heartily.  On 
the  application  of  this  principle  was  based  a  will- 
ingness to  recognize  as  far  as  could  be,  and  as 
rapidly  as  their  own  reformation  would  allow,  the 
autonomy  of  the  Armenian,  and  some  other  Ori- 
ental Churches.  The  real  value  of  the  work  of 
Congregational  missions  in  Asia  Minor  consists  in 
their  evangelical  teaching,  and  in  their  recall  of  the 
Asian  Churches  to  the  supremacy  of  the  Word  of 
God.  But  it  was  felt  that  the  attempt  to  impose  a 
Congregational  form  of  discipline  upon  those  Epis- 
copal Churches,  could  not  but  mar  the  grand  work 
which  had  been  accomplished  by  these  missionaries. 
Consequently,  the  impression  of  the  value  of  the 
principle  alluded  to  became  very  strong  in  its  appli- 
cation to  such  cases. 

Such  was  the  contribution  to  the  missionary  idea 
made  from  our  side  of  the  ocean.  On  the  other 
hand,  we  learned  from  actual  sight  and  contact 
with  the  men,  and  many  an  Englisjhman  also  real- 
ized—  that  is,  his  former  knowledge  became  a 
realizing  sense  —  that  the  kingdom  of  God  has 
actually  extended  to  every  part  of  the  known 
world.  It  was  as  if  we  heard  a  fore  echo  of  the 
great  voices  in  heaven  saying,  "  The  kingdoms  of 
this  world  are  become  the  kingdom  of  our  Lord  and 


164  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

of  His  Christ  ;  and  He  shall  reign  for  ever  and  ever." 
For  there  stood  among  us,  and  we  heard  their 
cheering  reports,  missionaries  who  represented 
every  nation.  There  were  Bishops  and  Metropoli- 
tans, living  signs  that  the  kingdom  had  been  estab- 
lished in  India,  in  New  Zealand,  in  Africa,  in  Aus- 
tralia, in  China,  in  Japan.  The  Metropolitan  of 
Cape  Town  representing  eight  Dioceses  in  South 
Africa.  The  Bishop  of  Adelaide  representing  the 
Metropolitan  and  twelve  Dioceses  in  Australasia. 
The  Bishop  of  Madras  representing  the  Metropoli- 
tan and  six  Dioceses  in  India  and  Ceylon.  The 
Primate  representing  seven  Dioceses  in  New  Zea- 
land, where,  even  I  can  remember  the  time,  that 
intense  hostility  to  Christianity  existed,  and  where 
the  bravery  and  self-sacrifice  of  Selwyn  in  1 841 
stirred  all  my  soul.  We  heard  the  Bishop  of  China's 
experience  of  the  progress  of  the  Gospel  during 
his  nineteen  years  of  labor.  We  saw  the  man 
whom  God  hasiionored,  by  permitting  him  to  trans- 
late the  Word  into  a  language  read  by  300,000,0x30 
of  souls.  And  we  read  a  letter  from  our  Bishop 
Williams  of  Japan,  giving  most  comforting  tidings 
of  unanimity  and  efficiency  in  the  work  of  En- 
glish and  American  missionaries,  and  of  God's 
blessing  on  it.    That  letter  was  only  one  month  in 


RESUL  TS  OF  THE  LAMBETH  CONFERENCE. 

coming  from  Jeddo  to  the  Conference,  and  cost 
only  five  cents  postage!  I  think  that  those  two 
facts  alone  made  a  strong  impression  as  to  the  gains 
of  Christianized  civilization,  and  the  increased  op- 
portunities for  co-operation  in  the  Church's  work. 
Besides,  we  heard  forcible  words,  and  plain,  practi- 
cal statements  from  the  Bishop  of  Haiti.  We 
heard  illustrations  of  the  great  work  which  the 
Church  in  Canada  is  carrying  on,  from  its  Metro- 
politan, and  from  the  Bishops  of  Toronto  and 
Saskatchewan — the  latter  will  have  to  travel  four 
months  to  reach  his  home.  The  Bishop  of  Long 
Island  summarized  our  Western  and  Southern  work  ; 
and  the  Bishops  of  Nebraska,  Colorado,  Iowa,  and 
Louisiana  gave  details  which  enabled  our  English 
brethren  to  apprehend  its  vastness  and  difficulty. 

As  the  persons  concerned  were  present  to  the 
eye  of  churches  throughout  the  kingdom,  and 
their  speeches  reached  the  ears  of  the  people,  the 
impression  to  which  I  allude  is  not  .vague,  nor  nar- 
row in  its  range.  Nor  is  it  beyond  probability  to 
say,  that  never  before  has  there  existed  in  the  pub- 
lic mind  so  real  a  sense  of  the  actuality,  hopeful- 
ness, and  vast  extent  of  the  missionary  labors  of 
the  Anglican  Communion. 


1 66  THE  CANTERB  UR  Y  PILGRIM  A  GE. 


6.  LITURGICAL  LIBERALITY. 

An  impression  that  Liturgies  ought  to  be  con-  < 
formed  to  national  habits,  needs,  and  modes  of 
thought.  The  idea  may  perhaps  have  a  wider  range 
than  to  those  cases  to  which  it  was  confined  in  the 
discussions  of  the  Conference.  It  is  quite  possible 
that  our  Prayer-Book  was  intended  not  to  be  wor- 
shipped, but  to  be  a  help  to  worship ;  and  should 
be  used  and  adapted  as  occasions  demand.  Cer- 
tainly, we  have  experienced  in  the  usage  of  parish 
churches  in  England,  a  flexibility  to  which  we  are 
not  accustomed  at  home.  But  the  principle  that 
was  adopted  by  the  Conference  went  no  farther 
than  that,  in  the  formation  of  national  churches  in 
missionary  fields,  our  Church  should  encourage  the 
framing  of  Liturgies  which  should  conform  to 
native  modes  of  thought  and  expression,  to  native 
habits  and  needs.  It  is  all-important  that  essential 
truths  shall  be  maintained  in  these  Liturgies.  It 
is  not  less  importanMhat  idiosyncrasies,  of  individ- 
ual missionaries,  shall  not  be  allowed  to  stereotype 
themselves  on  such  national  Liturgies.  Conse- 
quently, it  is  considered  to  be  a  most  wise  sugges- 
tion of  the  Conference  that  two  conditions  shall  be 
imposed,  viz. :  the  use  of  the  Creeds,  and  in  ad- 


RESULTS  OF  THE  LAMBETH  CONFERENCE. 

ministering  the  sacraments  the  preservation  of  the 
essential  Scriptural  terms  of  those  two  Institutions  ; 
and  also,  that  no  such  national  Liturgy  shall  be 
considered  as  authorized  until  it  shall  have  received 
the  sanction  of  two  Boards.  One  of  them  is  to 
sit  in  England,  and  includes  representatives  from 
the  three  Churches,  English,  Irish,  and  Scotch. 
The  other  is  to  sit  in  America,  and  will  be  formed 
by  the  authority  of  the  General  Convention.  As 
their  duties  will  be  only  an  examination  of  docu- 
ments, it  is  not  supposed  that  there  will  be  any 
difficulty  in  co-operating  by  correspondence. 

7.  SCEPTICISM. 

An  impression  that  the  Church  should  measure 
the  gravity  of  modern  objections  to  Christianity, 
but  should  not  be  moved  to  extraordinary  anxiety 
on  account  of  them.  Scepticism  has  always  ex- 
isted ;  will  probably  continue  to  exist.  Its  forms 
constantly  change.  In  each  age  it  is  a  formidable 
antagonist,  and  deserves  to  be  met  with  skill  and 
bravery.  But  the  present  form  is  only  the  old 
scepticism  under  a  new  name,  scientific  infidelity. 
The  action  of  the  Conference  has  produced  an  im- 
pression, which  I  deem  to  be  correct,  that  it  did 
not  regard  the  subject  in  its  present  aspect  as  of 


i6S 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


such  special  anxiety  that  a  body  of  Bishops  should 
enter  the  arena,  or  express  an  opinion  cx  cathedra. 

The  subject  was  specially  discussed.  The  debate 
was  the  ablest  I  ever  listened  to  on  any  topic  ;  nor 
was  any  element  of  the  controversy  overlooked. 
Yet  the  result  of  comparison  of  views,  and  of  con- 
sideration by  a  committee,  was — 1st,  that  a  suitable 
expression  of  the  Church's  reply  to  the  various 
and  constantly  varying  forms  of  scientific,  histori- 
cal, and  critical  objection  could  not  be  prepared 
within  the  limits  of  the  session ;  and  consequently, 
2d,  that  it  should  be  left  to  voluntary  efforts  of 
individual  writers.  It  is  hoped  that  as  at  other 
times,  so  now,  able  exponents  and  defenders  of. 
Revelation  will  be  found  in  the  Church  who  will 
meet  the  need.  The  Bishops  were  certainly  im- 
pressed with  the  gravity  of  the  situation,  but  not 
unduly  anxious.  They  felt  that  scientific  and  criti- 
cal investigation  had  thrown  great  light  on  Script- 
ure, and  on  the  truth  of  the  Gospel.  Every  ad- 
vance of  true  science  in  any  direction  advances  the 
confirmation  of  revealed  Truth.  Only  Sciolists  are 
infidels.  Scientists  as  a  rule  are  believers.  And 
while  it  is  the  Church's  duty  to  watch,  and  to  be 
ready  in  defence,  it  is  the  Church's  privilege,  ap- 
proved by  centuries  of  experience,  to  wait  until 


RESULTS  OF  THE  LAMBETH  CONFERENCE,  169 

crude  errors  of  investigators  have  been  corrected 
by  collisions  among  themselves,  and  indisputable 
facts  have  been  discovered.  At  that  time  it  will  be 
seen,  that  the  statements  of  revelation,  and  the 
facts  of  nature  and  history,  were  both  formed  by 
the  same  unerring  mind  and  will  of  God. 

As  to  inferences  which  unspiritual  men  draw 
from  the  facts  of  science,  the  Church  need  not  be 
concerned.  The  things  of  God  are  spiritually  dis- 
cerned. Religious  inferences  are  to  be  drawn  by 
men  who  understand  religion.  They  are  not  part 
of  scientific  deductions,  properly  so  called.  When 
facts  and  truths  shall  have  been  finally  discerned, 
the  time  will  have  come  for  the  Church  to  draw 
conclusions. 

8.  RITUALISM. 
An  impression  that  the  present  aspect  of  Ritual- 
ism is  less  dangerous  because  it  is  now  a  revolt  against 
lawful  authority ;  and  the  good  sense  of  the  great 
body  of  the  Church  will  in  the  end  correct  it.  It 
seems  to  be  generally  thought  that  this  Conference 
dealt  wisely  with  this  subject.  Its  opinion  was 
uttered  clearly,  and  with  great  unanimity,  both  on 
this  topic,  and  on  the  more  vital  topic  of  enforced 
Confession.  That  both  of  them  are  of  grave  con- 
cern, yet  comparatively  of  minor  importance,  it 
8 


1 70  THE  CA  JV  TRRB  UR  V  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 

will  be  only  necessary  to  compare  them  with  those 
grand  considerations  relating  to  the  condition  and 
influence  of  Christ's  kingdom  on  the  earth  which 
have  already  occupied  this  Paper,  and  which  occu- 
pied (with  this  exception)  the  mind  and  time  of  the 
Conference.  All  testimony  agreed  that  this  sub- 
ject was  not  disturbing  the  great  depths  of  Church- 
feeling.  It  is  the  shallow  rill  that  babbles  and  is 
noisy.  And  already  the  good  sense  of  the  Church 
is  administering  the  proper  corrective  to  the  ex- 
travagances and  errors  of  the  Ritualistic  system. 

It  is  said — I  hope  with  truth — that  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Tooth  has  accepted  the  decisions  of  the  courts,  and 
like  a  loyal  churchman,  and  a  loyal  Englishman, 
has  conformed  his  "  ornaments  "  to  the  rule.  If  so, 
the  fact  will  be  very  indicative.  Indeed,  one  of  the 
most  distinguished  Ritualists  has  said  (so  I  am  in- 
formed by  a  brother  Bishop)  that  they  "  had  asked 
for  the  living  voice  of  the  Church.  They  had  been 
referred  to  Lay  Courts  for  rules  in  spiritual  affairs  : 
but  were  not  willing  to  accept  such  an  authority. 
They  had  always  been  ready  to  obey  the  Church ; 
and  had  only  been  waiting  for  it  to  speak.  Now  the 
Church  had  spoken.  They  could  never  hope  to 
hear  her  living  voice  if  one  hundred  Bishops,  gath- 
ered from  all  quarters,  and  free  from  narrow  prej- 


RESUL  TS  OF  THE  LAM  BE  Til  CONFERENCE.  \  y  i 

udices,  and  the  trammels  of  the  Church  of  En- 
gland, did  not  utter  it.  He  thought  that  the  Ritu- 
alists generally  would  yield  their  practice — prob- 
ably not  their  convictions,  but  their  practice — to 
this  expression  of  the  Church's  mind."  If  this  hope 
be  not  exaggerated,  it  will  certainly  appear  that 
what  a  Synod  could  not  have  accomplished,  the 
Conference  has  done  by  moral  influence. 

9.  DISESTABLISHMENT. 

An  impression  unfavorable  to  immediate  dises- 
tablishment. It  is  evident  that  a  reaction  has 
taken  place  in  the  public  mind  as  regards  the  value 
of  the  connection  of  the  English  Church  with  the 
State,  both  as  it  may  affect  the  permanence  of 
British  institutions,  and  as  it  does  influence  the 
progress  of  Christianity.  How  far  the  Confer- 
ence has  stimulated  this  reaction  it  is  not  easy 
to  say.  Certainly,  no  word  was  uttered  in  the 
Conference  which  favored  disestablishment  ;  and 
some  strong  words,  from  unexpected  quarters,  were 
incidentally  spoken  against  it.  It  is  not  neces- 
sary to  say  that  American  Bishops,  speaking  to 
English  audiences,  could  not  so  violate  courtesy  as 
to  interfere  with  a  domestic  question ;  but,  when 
appealed  to,  their  statements  of  facts  and  their 


I  72  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

opinions  were  freely  given,  and  patiently  consid- 
ered. It  was  evident  that  these  facts  were  not  al- 
ways thought  to  weigh  greatly  in  the  scale  in 
favor  of  disestablishment.  What  we  rejoiced  in, 
and  found  entirely  suited  to  our  circumstances, 
might  not  be  the  wisest  for  the  English  nation,  be- 
ing a  monarchy,  to  try. 

Another  class  of  considerations  produced  much 
impression.  The  Church  of  England,  as  a  State 
Church,  and  largely  in  virtue  of  its  opportunities  as 
an  Establishment,  had  brought  to  pass  this  marvel- 
lous exhibition  of  missionary  extension.  Nor  was 
it  without  some  feeling  of  just  pride  that  English- 
men welcomed  from  all  parts  of  the  earth,  and  from 
one  nation  which  was  not  a  part  of  England, 
Churches  that  rightly  regard  her  Church  with  rever- 
ence as  their  mother.  There  seemed  to  be  some 
doubt  whether  a  system  that  had  accomplished  so 
much  had  not  best  be  left  untouched.  It  is  quite 
certain,  that,  at  present,  the  majority  of  English- 
men are  heartily  in  accord  with  the  system  of  their 
national  Church. 

IO.  OUR  CHURCH. 

An  impression  favorable  to  our  Church  in  the 
United  States.    Not  only  have  our  Bishops  reason 


RESUL  TS  OF  THE  LAM  BE  TH  CONFERENCE.  r  73 

to  be  gratified  by  the  brotherly  attentions,  the 
abundant  hospitality,  and  the  unmistakable  kind- 
ness received,  but  by  the  respect  shown  to  the 
Church  itself.  Our  Bishops  were  listened  to  in  pul- 
pit, and  on  platform,  with  the  utmost  consideration. 
The  condition  and  progress  of  our  Church  was  a 
topic  of  constant  inquiry,  and  of  favorable  remark. 

The  American  idea  that  the  Laity  are  an  essen- 
tial element  in  Church  legislatures,  has  made 
much  progress  in  England,  and  especially  in  the 
Colonies.  It  is  not  more  American  than  Scriptural. 
And  the  necessities  of  the  Establishment  have  now 
contributed  to  impress  it.  The  most  influential 
Churchman,  a  layman,  with  whom  I  conversed  on 
the  topic,  said  :  "  We  agree  with  you  that  the 
Church  needs  at  this  moment  the  concerted  action 
of  her  laymen  of  power  and  position.  This  is  the 
opinion  of  the  large  body  of  our  important  Church 
members.  At  present  the  clergy  do  not  seem  to 
be  of  our  mind.  But  the  opinion  is  growing." 
Certainly,  if  the  Church  of  England  could  gather 
into  some  national  council,  the  suffrages  and  weight 
of  character  of  her  laity — than  whom  there  is  not 
a  more  influential  church  membership  on  the  earth 
— she  need  fear  nothing.  Under  God,  such  men, 
combined  with  20,000  clergy,  and  Bishops  such  as 


I  74  THE  CAN  TERR  UR  Y  PILGRIM  A  GE. 

adorn  her  bench,  with  two  such  Archbishops  to 
organize  and  lead,  would  wield  irresistible  power 
over  the  national  mind  and  heart. 

If  the  example  of  our  Church  and  the  presence 
of  our  Bishops  in  England  have  added  anything  to 
the  force  of  this  idea,  our  part  in  the  Lambeth 
Conference  of  1878  will  have  been  of  incalculable 
value. 


XXIV. 


GENEVA,  AND   MONT  BLANC. 

THE  weather  has  become  so  treacherous  lately 
in  Switzerland,  that  we  have  abandoned  our  plans 
for  travelling  over  either  Passes.  On  the  morning 
of  the  4th,  for  the  first  time  in  six  days,  the  sun 
rose  in  a  clear  sky  on  the  Rigi ;  but  although  glo- 
riously bright,  where  we  were  walking  to  greet  his 
appearance  at  half-past  four,  the  whole  of  the  land- 
scape (which  I  have  heretofore  described)  below 
us,  was  shrouded  in  clouds.  They  hung  at  least 
2,000  feet  lower  than  the  Kulm.  The  world  was 
sleeping  in  an  atmosphere  which  betokened  for  it  a 
miserably  wet  day ;  while  we  were  looking  on  the 
glorious  face  of  the  sun  without  a  cloud,  and  the 
mountain  tops  had  welcomed  him  with  rosy  smiles. 
We  had  reached  a  higher  plane.  We  were  not 
looking  with  different  eyes  from  other  men,  but 
from  a  different  stand-point.  We  could  not  fail  to 
read  the  lesson ;  but  it  is  too  trite  for  repetition. 

(175) 


1 76  THE  CANTERB  UR  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 

It  was  a  strange  sensation,  about 

DESCENT  eight  o'clock,  as  we  were  going 
THROUGH        ,  ,  .,         ,  ,  , 

down   by  the  rail,  suddenly  to 

plunge  into  the  cloud,  which  lay 
motionless  and  heavy  over  the  lake ;  and  in  a  mo- 
ment to  lose  sight  of  the  mountain  heights,  indeed 
of  everything,  except  the  carriage  in  which  we 
were  sitting.  But  in  fifteen  minutes  we  had  gotten 
through  to  the  lower  side  of  the  clouds,  and  then 
the  busy  world  of  towns,  and  the  lake,  crowded 
with  vessels,  came  in  sight.  There  was  no  rain  ; 
but  it  was  a  damp  and  murky  day,  and  so  we  were 
suddenly  transported  to  another  world.  Our  view 
was  now  entirely  reversed ;  for  every  hill  and 
mountain  was  hidden.  Nothing  save  the  misty 
surface  of  the  lake  and  the  dull  average  of  plain 
appeared.  Between  us  and  the  sun  lay  an  impene- 
trable cloud-land.  Such  are  the  sudden  reversals 
of  human  experience. 

On  the  boat  we  met  an  English  clergyman,  who 
interested  us  much  by  recounting  parts  of  his  ex- 
perience in  Australia.  The  same  sad  questions 
which  arise  among  us,  whenever  the  white  race 
comes  in  contact  with  aborigines,  are  there  also 
employing  the  heart  of  the  Colonial  Church.  He 
told  me  tales  of  oppression,  deceit,  and  cruelty, 


GENEVA,  AND  MONT  BLANC. 


177 


AUSTRALIAN 
BORDER  LIFE. 


by  the  border  men  of  Australia, 
in  their  dealing  with  the  natives, 
which   could    not    be  equalled 


anywhere,  except  on  the  line  which  divides  our 
territories  from  the  Indian  tribes.  How  often  he 
reminded  me  of  dear  brother  Whipple ;  as  almost 
in  despair,  yet  believing  in  the  righteous  vengeance 
of  God,  he  utters  his  protest  against  wrongs  which 
are  leading  the  natives  to  revenge,  and  the  whites 
to  retaliating  wars. 

At  Geneva,  our  new  church  was  the  first  object 
of  interest.    When  I  remember  the  anxieties  of 


and  consecrated.  It  had  been  dedicated  to  its 
holy  purposes  by  Bishop  Littlejohn,  about  a  fort- 
night since.  Our  Consul,  Major  Montgomery,  has 
taken  a  lively  part  in  pressing  the  work  to  a  con- 
clusion ;  and  he  kindly  took  us  to  see  the  build- 
ing. It  is  of  stone.  The  present  structure  is 
really  only  the  nave  of  what,  in  the  result,  will  be 
a  cruciform  church.  Its  proportions  will  be  good, 
and  its  exterior  handsome.  The  present  front, 
surmounted  by  a  stone  cross,  is  graceful  and  attract- 
ive.    The  interior  shows  loving  work ;  but  also 


OUR  GENEVA 


CHURCH. 


our  brethren  in  Geneva,  three 
years  ago,  it  was  difficult  to  realize 
that  the  church  had  been  built 


8* 


178  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

indicates  narrow  means,  which  should  not  be,  in  a 
community  that  all  the  year  round  contains  a  large 
body  of  American  society.  A  richly-carved  chair 
has  been  provided  for  the  Bishop,  the  workmanship 
exhibiting  that  skill  in  wood-carving  for  which  the 
Swiss  are  famous.  An  elegant  font  stands  in  front 
of  the  chancel,  given  by  Mr.  Norris, 

A  FONT 

^r„^,rT,,  °f  Philadelphia,  a  memorial  of  a 
GEAEVRA.  .  r 

daughter  Genevra  who  died  at  Ge- 
neva. It  is  rich,  and  in  genuine  taste.  It  was 
carved  in  Philadelphia,  and  sent  out  to  our  little 
church  in  Switzerland.  The  efforts  of  our  brethren 
to  perfect  this  church  ought  to  meet  with  liberal 
sympathy. 

Of  course,  we  did  not  miss  our  last  opportunity 
of  seeing  the  effect  of  sunset  on  Mont  Blanc.  We 
have  never  had  a  finer  view  of  it  from  Geneva  ;  for 
not  only  is  the  new  hotel — the  National — so  placed 
as  to  face  the  mountain,  and  to  secure  an  extended 
prospect  of  the  range  :  but,  that  nothing  might  be 
wanting  to  the  perfection  of  the  prospect,  we  took 
the  trouble  to  travel  to  the  roof  of  the  house,  and 
were  well  rewarded.  For  from  the  Belvidere  noth- 
ing interfered  with  the  panorama.  The  Jura  range 
behind  us.   The  city  of  Geneva 

THE  PANORAMA. 

at  our  feet.     1  he  lovely  lake 


GENEVA,  AND  MONT  BLANC.  \jg 

stretching  off  to  the  east,  and  partly  interposed  be- 
tween us  and  the  mountains.  And  the  majestic 
peaks  and  the  Dome  of  Mont  Blanc  covered  with 
perpetual  snow,  lifted  15,000  feet  above  the  sea. 
As  the  sun  sank  from  our  sight,  the  whole  range 
was  bathed  in  crimson.  It  illumined  our  farewell 
view  of  the  Alps. 

A  little  nearer  to  the  sun  a  thunder-cloud  had 
just  completed  its  refreshing  task,  and  on  the  last 
shower  the  last  rays  had  painted  a  glorious  bow. 
The  almost  level  lines  of  light  projected  the  rain- 
bow a  complete  half-circle ;  and  soon  above  it 
appeared  the  double  of  the  refraction  :  so  that 
upon  the  black  background  of  the  cloud  sprang 
two  arches  of  colored  light,  reflecting  the  radiancy 
of  the  heavenly  city  with  its  walls  built  in  of  every 
precious  stone.  After  this  "  solemn  pomp  of  orange, 
purple,  and  crimson  and  burning  gold,"  the  vision 
faded  into  indistinguishable  night.  Then  sparkled 
out  the  evening  star,  "  like  a  great  tremulous  tear 
of  light  just  ready  to  fall  on  a  darkened  world."  , 


XXV. 


OUR  CHURCH  IN  PARIS. 

LATE  on  Saturday  evening  we  arrived  in  this 
strange  city.  There  is  no  second  Paris  in  the  world  ; 
no  city  where  attraction  and  repulsion  are  so  equal. 
The  natural  result  of  this  balance  of  forces  is  rest  ; 
a  visitor  generally  remains  in  Paris,  if  he  once  gets 
there.  It  has  a  singular  fascination.  We  note  an 
encouraging  fact,  that,  amidst  all  its  thronging 
gayety,  a  pure  Protestant  religion  is  rapidly  gain- 
ing foothold,  and  that  our  own  Church,  and  that 
of  England,  are  holding  steady  influences  over 
those  who  speak  our  tongue.  A  large  resident 
population  now  represents  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  in 
Paris,  besides  the  thousands  of  travellers  who  are 
merely  birds  of  passage.  Several  English  chapels 
are  open.  Our  own  church  is  open  four  times  each 
Lord's  day,  besides  the  week-day  services.  Rev. 
Mr.  Morgan,  our  rector,  is  most  zealous,  patient, 

and  devoted.    The  church  is  too 
TOO  SMALL.  . 

small.    Possibly  it  may  accom- 

(180) 


OUR  CHURCH  IN  PARIS. 


181 


modate  those  of  the  residents  who  desire  to  at- 
tend in  the  winter ;  but  it  does  not  seat  a  moiety 
of  those  who  wish  to  attend  in  the  summer.  Surely 
it  should  be  enlarged.  Large  donations  are  in 
hand  for  the  commencement  of  the  work.  There 
can  be  little  doubt  that  if  the  work  were  once  well 
begun,  a  noble  edifice  would  soon  appear  in  answer 
to  the  energy  of  the  Rector,  and  in  accord  with  the 
wealth  and  liberality  of  Americans  who  frequent  this 
capital. 

The  Bishop  of  Long  Island,  in  charge  of  the 
churches  on  the  Continent,  is  making  his  visitation 
to  Paris.  His  sermon  on  Sunday  morning  (Sept. 
8th)  produced  a  profound  impression.  I  have  nev- 
er seen  him  more  aroused ;  and  the  tremendous 
force  of  the  truths  which  he  was  enunciating  was 
reflected  in  his  eloquent  manner.    His  subject  was 


cates  a  mind  so  much  lowered  in  the  moral  scale  that 
it  can  no  longer  appreciate  reverence  for  God,  he  de- 
voted himself  to  modern  forms  of  irreverence — not 
failing  to  call-  them  by  their  true  term,  Blasphemy. 


A  STRONG, 
BOLD  SERMON. 


"  Hallowed  be  Thy  name." 
Passing  by  ordinary  and  vul- 
gar blasphemy,  which  indi- 


SCEPTICISM. 


I.  Those  forms  of  irreverence  for 
God's  Word  and  sacred  things, 


182  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


which  have  taken  to  themselves  the  inappropriate 
name  of  scientific  and  critical  scepticism  ;  the  first 
result  of  which  has  been  to  weaken  general  rever- 
ence for  the  Creator,  and  for  His  revelation  of  truth. 

2.  That  particular  form  of  irrelig- 
PAN  THEISM.     .  .       .  _ 

ion  which  is  termed  Pantheism  ; 

in  which  God,  nature,  and  man  are  confounded, 
by  which  good  and  evil,  righteousness  and  sin,  re- 
ward and  punishment,  are  treated  as  one  and  the 
same  ;  in  which,  indeed,  there  is  no  recognition  of 
a  personal  God,  or  of  a  responsible  human  being. 

3.  The  irreverence  of  hero-wor- 
HERO-  WORSHIP.     ,.        _  , 

ship.  False  ideas  current  con- 
cerning Force  and  Power  as  objects  of  adoration, 
lead  men  to  obliviousness  of  moral  excellence  as 
the  true  object  of  worship,  and  of  Moral  Perfection 
as  the  true  sign  of  Divinity. 

4.  That  irreverence  which  ex- 
DEGRADED  ART.  . 

hibits   itself  in    modern  art. 

On  this  point  he  made  a  telling  contrast  between 
the  ephemeral  art  of  the  present,  and  the  ever-liv- 
ing power  of  ancient  art,  tracing  the  cause  to  the 
reverential  love  and  fear  of  God  which  imbued  the 
souls  of  such  painters  as  Savonarola  and  Raphael, 
and  such  sculptors  as  Michael  Angelo  when  he 
wrought  his  Moses,  each  of  them  studying  Script- 


OUR  CHURCH  IN  PARIS.  183 

ure  in  order  to  be  in  harmony  with  their  chosen 
themes. 

I  have  seen  a  commentary  on  it  to-day  at  the  Ex- 
hibition. The  French  halls  of  paintings  and  sculpt- 
ure are  crowded  with  statues  and  pictures,  about 
equally  divided  between  lust  and  cruelty.  The 
English  halls  are  full  of  pure  and  lovely  creations. 
The  American  hall  (with  one  exception)  is  lined 
with  sweet  pictures  of  nature,  and  beautiful  scenes 
that  lead  one's  thoughts  to  God  through  His  works. 
What  account  is  to  be  given  of  the  cause  that  leads 
to  such  a  marked  distinction  in  art  ?  Nothing,  ex- 
cept that  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  of  painters  and 
sculptors  have  studied  in  a  moral  atmosphere,  which 
is  full  of  reverence  for  moral  truth  and  God. 

5.  The  Bishop's  fifth  denunciation 
LIBERALISM.  ... 

of  irreverence  was  still  more  power- 
ful, and  still  more  needed  in  these  evil  times.  He 
showed  how  false  theology,  the  pride  of  individual 
opinion,  the  self-conceit  of  irreverent  independent 
interpretation  of  Scripture,  were  setting  at  naught 
the  most  sacred  truths  of  God's  Word  ;  the  doctrines 
of  responsibility,  of  sin,  of  the  atonement,  of  the 
judgment,  and  of  future  punishment  for  the  per- 
severingly  impenitent.  I  wish  that  I  could  give  you 
any  idea  of  his  scathing  rebuke  of  this  Liberalism, 


X84  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

without  doing  injustice  to  his  masterly  delineation. 
•  But  the  crowning  point  of  all  was,  that  this  modern 

interpretation  of  the  idea  of  sin — this  placing  a 
devil  but  a  little  lower  in  the  moral  scale  than  an 
angel — this  representation  of  an  unrepenting  sin- 
ner as  travelling  on  the  same  road  with  every  saint, 
toward  heaven  at  last — was,  in  a  fearful  sense, 
blasphemy  against  the  character  of  the  Holy  God, 
and  the  pure  and  suffering  Saviour. 

You  will  rejoice  with  me  that  such  clear,  out- 
spoken Scriptural  truth  is  heard  from  the  Bishop 
who,  for  the  present,  is  charged  with  a  responsible 
duty  in  leading  religious  opinion  in  Paris. 


XXVI. 


BRITISH   MUSEUM   ON  SCIENTIFIC 
SCEPTICISM. 

London. 

"  From  Paris  to  London  "  is  a  brief  line  ;  but  it 
includes  the  passage  of  the  roughest  of  seas.  All 
tides,  unnumbered  currents,  winds  of  every  name, 
seem  to  find  a  merry  place  of  meeting  in  the  chan- 
nel between  France  and  England,  and  their  dance 
is  the  wildest,  so  that  even  to  look  at  it  makes 
most  people  dizzy.  The  only  effective  vessel  thus 
far  invented  is  that  by  which  our  passage  was  facili- 
tated—  the  double  steamer.  Two  steamers  run 
side  by  side,  covered  by  one  deck  and  making  one 
vessel.  It  is  very  steady.  The  motion  is  reduced 
to  a  minimum. 

GA  UL  TO        "  Fr°m  PariS  t0  L°ndon  "  is  a  Ut- 
ENGLE  WOLD.   tle  way ;  but  ifc  implies  the  pas- 
sage from  a  Gallic  to  an  Anglo- 
Saxon  people ;  from   an   impulsive,  thoughtless 
nation,  careless  (in  the  sense  of  being  apparently 
without  care),  godless  (in  the  sense  of  having  ap- 

(185) 


1 86  THE  CANTERB  UR  Y  PILGRIM  A  GE. 


parently  no  religion),  and  grasping,  to  a  nation  in 
each  particular  the  opposite,  except  in  the  last 
named.  For,  in  the  moment  that  you  have  set 
your  foot  in  England,  you  feel  that  the  community 
is  steady,  grave,  thoughtful,  burdened  with  care, 
religiously  inclined ;  but  also  thoroughly  set  on 
making  money.  The  French  save.  The  English 
get. 

The  brief  passage  of  the  channel  places  one 
among  a  nobler  race  ;  a  race  capable  of  ruling,  and 
intended  by  Providence  to  be  dominant.  Perhaps, 
in  all  such  thoughts,  there  is  a  trifle  of  self-gratu- 
lation,  when  they  are  indulged  by  an  American. 
But  the  extension  and  power  of  the  Anglo-Saxon 
race  is  not  only  a  marvel ;  it  should  arrest  attention. 
Is  there  not  a  Providence  in  it  ?  All  people,  ex- 
cept the  English-speaking  nations,  appear  to  have 
reached  their  limits,  and  are  rectifying  their  boun- 
daries without  real  extension;  most  of  them' are 
diminishing.  The  Anglo-Saxons  alone  are  reach- 
ing out  on  all  sides,  and  steadily  growing.  The 
change  of  Queen  Victoria's  title  by  the  addition  of 
Empress,  was  marvellously  significant.  What  do  * 
these  facts  mean  ?  One  aspect  of  them  was  deeply 
impressed  on  my  mind  by  a  visit  to  the 


SCIENTIFIC  SCEPTICISM. 


BRITISH  MUSEUM. 

In  this  wonderful  collection  have  been  gathered 
the  results  of  thousands  of  explorations  in  all  de- 
partments of  Natural  Science,  Archaeology,  Geog- 
raphy, and  Bibliography.  Merely  to  walk  through 
the  rooms,  glancing  here  and  there  without  taking 
time  to  examine  anything,  is  two  or  three  hours' 
hard  work.  But  for  study  in  any  of  these  depart- 
ments, there  seems  no  limit  to  the  materials  offered. 

As  we  stood  wondering-  at  the  giant 
WHY?  & 

stones  brought  from  Nineveh,  the  in- 
scriptions from  Babylon,  the  pottery  libraries  of 
Sennacherib,  the  statues  and  mummies  and  papyri 
from  Egypt,  engraved  relics  from  Greece,  and  the 
Rosetta  stone,  which  furnished  the  key  to  these 
treasures  of  history,  we  asked  ourselves :  "  Why 
has  God  sent  them  here,  and  why  to  God-fearing  En- 
gland, rather  than  to  any  godless  people  ?  "  There 
is  only  one  satisfactory  reply,  and  thoroughly  satis- 
factory. And  it  is  doubly  significant  when  one 
considers  the  timeliness  of  the  later  of  these  dis- 
coveries. 

Here,  on  stones,  and  upon  baked  pottery,  on  old 
papyri,  and  in  inscriptions  upon  rings,  which  had 
been  buried  until  the  time  came  that  their  speech 


188 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


was  needed,  is  the  refutation  of  a  whole  class  of 
infidel  objections  to  the  precious  Book  of  God  ! 
Wonderful  is  the  silence  and  reticence  of  the  Great 
Ruler,  whilst  men  who  think  themselves  wise,  in- 
dulge in  sparkling  witticisms  as  to  the  fallacy  of 
prophets  and  historians  of  Scripture.    One  after 


men  are  sure  that  they  have  found  an  antiquity 
that  reaches  far  beyond  the  creation.  Members  of 
the  French  Academy,  reasoning  rashly  from  a 
horoscope  found  on  the  ceiling  in  the  Temple  of 
Dendera,  at  once  set  Moses  aside  as  a  mere  writer 
of  fables.  The  great  God  waits.  He  sets  a  Lay- 
ard  and  a  Wilkinson  at  work.  More  curiosities  are 
brought  in.  The  Rosetta  stone  has  given  a  key  to 
more  wonders  than  the  finders  of  it  imagined. 
History  begins  to  write  itself  again.  And  the 
more  it  re-writes  from  the  monuments,  the  more 
quietly  it  ranges  its  events  alongside  of  Moses  and 
the  prophets.    At  last  Smith  begins  to  read  the 


ure.  The  whole  account  of  both  Egyptian  and 
Assyrian  invasions  of  Palestine  is  read  as  the  Bi- 


THE  BIBLE. 


another  of  these  curiosities  come  to 
the    British   Museum.    The  wise 


THE  PROPHETS. 


MOSES  AXD 


pottery  library  of  Nineveh. 
Every  fresh  chapter  corre- 
sponds accurately  with  Script- 


SCIENTIFIC  SCEPTICISM.  lgg 

ble  records  it.    The  statue  in  black  marble  which 
commemorates  the  reign  of  one  of  the  Pharaohs, 
is  found  to  be  that  of  the  very  one  who  per- 
ished in  the  Red  Sea  pursuing  his  slaves.  Rame- 
ses  the  Great  is  found  to  have  been  the  oppressor 
of  the  Hebrews.    Then  the  Assyrian  library  gives 
the  story  of  the  flood  as  Moses  wrote  it.  And 
then,  these  ancient  histories  are  found  to  cease  to 
speak,  at  an  age  long  posterior  to  that  from  which 
Moses  dates  his  annals.    So  that  by  its  own  testi- 
mony this  marvellous  antiquity  which  had  boasted 
that  by  these  monuments  it  would  prove  Moses  to 
be  a  mere  fabulist,  and  the  world  to  have  been 
senile  at  the  date  when  Moses  said  that  it  was 
born,  is  shown  to  be  far  younger  than  the  history 
of  the  Bible. 

A  sort  of  irony  seems  to  display  itself,  in  the 
finding  side  by  side  with  these  histories  of  great 
deeds,  unknown  during  3,000  or  4,000  years,  except 
for  Moses,  a  plaster  pyramid,  which  is  nothing  but 

ASSYRIAN  dCed  °f  °f  3  piCCe  °f 

deed  OF  sale.  land  near  Nineveh,  giving  metes 
and  bounds  and  price  and  signa- 
tures of  the  parties  ;  lands  and  owners  together, 
all  dust,  and  forgotten  !    It  is  a  baked  piece  of 
pottery  in  a  pyramidal  form,  about  nine  inches 


igO  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

high,  inscribed  on  all  four  sides  with  arrow-headed 
letters. 

These  treasures  were  placed  in  English  hands 
rather  than  in  the  hands  of  any  godless  people, 
because  a  religious  people  alone  would  use  them 
for  the  glory  of  God.  Is  not  that  the  right  interpre- 
tation ?  Go  now  to  the  magnificent  library.  There 
you  are  in  possession  of  what  will  correct  the  errors 
of  critical  infidelity.  Next  visit  the  halls,  crowded 
with  specimens  of  all  birds  and  fish  and  animals. 
There  you  see  with  your  own  eyes  what  modifies 
the  theory  of  development,  reduces  it  to  reason- 
able limits,  and  renders  it  an  adjunct  to  the  story 
of  creation.  The  step  from  the  brute  gorilla, 
seen  there,  to  man,  is  still  as  great  as  the  step 
from  any  species  to  another.  God  has  placed  the 
evidence  of  this  fact  in  the  hands  of  the  British 
Museum.  You  may  go  there  and  look  it  out  for 
yourself.  Or  you  may  take  your  children  there, 
and  their  keen,  childish  discernment  will  tell  you 
that  God's  history  of  the  creation  is  true.  He 
created  distinct  races  of  living  things.  Never  has 
one  race  passed  into  another.  The  types  are  as 
separate  to-day  as  they  were  nearly  6,000  years  ago. 


SCIENTIFIC  SCEPTICISM. 


I9I 


A  REGIMENT  AT  THE  ABBEY. 
One  Sunday  morning,  early,  we  were  startled  by 
the  sound  of  drums  and  the  tramp  of  soldiers,  near 
Westminster.    Hurrying  to  the  windows,  we  saw 

THE  GUARDS  *  "f"1"*  °f  the  °Uards  defil" 
IN  WORSHIP.    ing  into  the  nave  of  the  Abbey. 

A  moment,  and  we  followed  them, 
reaching  our  places,  whilst  the  magnificent  band  of 
the  Grenadiers  was  filling  the  Abbey  with  its  har- 
monies, and  the  chaplain  in  his  surplice  was  walk- 
ing to  his  desk,  between  files  of  six  hundred  men. 
They  were  in  full  dress,  with  side  arms.  The  choir 
was  composed  of  the  drummer  boys,  and  a  squad 
of  men  from  the  band.  The  instruments  were  the 
reeds,  flutes,  horns,  and  others  of  brass.  The  band 
leader  was  precentor. 

And  then  began  a  rendering  of  the  service,  which, 
for  thrilling  effect,  coupled  with  simplicity,  sur- 
passed all  efforts  of  cathedral  choirs,  although 
assisted  by  the  grandest  of  organs.  Such  hearty 
responses,  such  vigorous  singing,  such  disciplined 
devotion,  such  a  volume  of  manly  voices !  And 

A  REGIMENTAL    ^         °ld  Te  Deu™->ck- 
TE  DEUM.       SOn  S~ burst  forth>  led  by  those 
well-drilled,  harmonious  instru- 


I Q2  THE  CA  N  TERB  URY  P1L  GRIM  A  GE. 

ments  ;  when  the  shrill  cornet  and  the  soft-voiced 
flute,  sustained  by  brazen  trumpets,  and  mellowed 
by  the  diapason  of  horn  and  trombone,  took  up 
the  notes  ;  when  on  those  waves  of  sound  there 
rang  through  arch  and  corridor,  there  rose  along 
the  fretted  roof  and  returned  in  echoes  from  aisles 
dim  in  the  distance,  the  continued  cry  of  the  cheru- 
bim and  seraphim, 

"  Holy,  Holy,  Holy,  Lord  God  of  Sabaoth  ; 
Heaven  and  earth  are  full  of  the  majesty  of  Thy  glory  : " 

and  the  song  of  the  redeemed, — 

"  When  Thou  hadst  overcome  the  sharpness  of  death, 
Thou  didst  open  the  kingdom  of  heaven  to  all  believers  :  " 

the  rapture  of  devotion  was  full-filled. 

Three  times  we  heard  that  service  ;  at  each  time 
a  different  regiment,  but  an  equally  drilled  band. 
The  bands  of  the  household  troops,  it  is  allowed, 
are  not  surpassed  by  any  in  the  world  ;  and  when 
all  that  skill  is  turned  to  glorify  God,  and  rouse  the 
devotions  of  His  worshippers,  the  effect  may  be 
imagined,  but  can  not  adequately  be  described. 

Blessed  be  God  !  The  sermons 
THE  GOSPEL.  .  „         ,  -  .« 

that  followed  on  two  of  these  oc- 
casions, were  overflowing  with  the  Gospel.  They 
were  short,  for  the  preacher  had  only  fifteen  min- 


SCIENTIFIC  SCEPTICISM.  193 

utes  —  pithy,  sententious,  clear  as  crystal  in  the 
representation  of  the  sinner's  need,  and  full  of 
affectionate  telling  of  the  old  story  of  a  Saviour's 
love.  The  red-coated  men  were  very  reverent  and 
attentive,  and  evidently  impressed. 

Their  garrison  chapel  was  being  rebuilt.  Mean- 
while, Dean  Stanley  had  allowed  the  regiments  to 
use  the  Abbey  nave  for  an  hour  each  Sunday  morn- 
ing. 


9 


XXVII. 


CAMBRIDGE  UNIVERSITY. 

We  have  spent  a  day  in  renewing  our  recollec- 
tions of  this  University.  On  our  previous  visit, 
Simeon,  the  faithful  prophet  of  the  Evangelical  re- 
vival, had  lately  gone  to  his  rest,  and  his  mantle 
had  fallen  on  the  willing  shoulders  of  Cams.  But 
now  we  missed  Carus  also,  for  he  had  been  trans- 
ferred to  Winchester.  Indeed,  as  it  was  vacation, 
most  of  those  whose  names  we  have  known  were 
absent.  I  could  only  find  the  Rev.  Mr.  Munroe, 
Senior  Fellow  of  Trinity,  who  made  his  reputation 
by  devotion  to  the  Latin  classics  and  literature.  No 
one  could  have  been  more  attentive  than  he,  or 
could  have  faciliated  our  view  of  the  buildings  and 
grounds,  or  replied  to  my  queries,  in  a  more  satis- 
factory manner. 

The  group  of  colleges  lies  generally  along  one 
street,  and  looks  back  upon  a  most  lovely  park, 
through  the  green  aisles  and  greener  sward  of  which 
the  Cam  winds  by  many  a  gentle  turning. 
Over  the  river  tasteful  bridges  are  thrown. 
(194) 


CAMBRIDGE  UNIVERSITY.  ig^ 

Each  college  tends  its  own  share  of  this  heritage. 
By  a  somewhat  modern  compact,  most  of  these 
separate  lawns  are  practically  thrown  into  one  grand 
park ;  and  it  is  a  feature  of  glorious  beauty.  It 
would  not  interest  you  to  hear  how  many  colleges 
there  are,  and  how  many  halls  and  libraries  and 
chapels  we  visited ;  but  when  you  go  to  Cam- 
bridge, do  not  fail,  among  the  thirteen  or  fifteen 
colleges,  to  see  the  library  of  Christ  College,  for 
it  contains  some  great  curiosities  ;  nor  the  Chapel 
of  St.  John's,  which  is  singularly  rich  and  quaint 
in  its  ornamentation,  although  quite  modern.  The 
panels  of  the  ceilings  contain  portraits  (or  what 
are  the  substitutes  for  portraits)  of  persons  who 
have  distinguished  each  Christian  century  to  the 
nineteenth  ;  the  later  centuries  being  distinguished 
by  the  portrait  of  the  foundress  of  the  college,  and 
of  the  great  men  who  have  graduated  from  it. 

TO  BE  SEEN.  AmonS  them  is  a  Picture  of  Henry 
Martyn.  You  go  to  see  Caius  Col- 
lege ;  call  it  "  Keys."  Between  these  you  will  find 
old  Trinity.  There  you  will  linger  among  the  courts 
and  corridors,  the  apartments  of  the  Fellows,  and 
the  rooms  for  under-graduates,  the  cloisters,  and 
the  grand  old  kitchen,  than  which  no  Baron's  could 
have  been  more  ample.    You  will  sit  in  the  chapel, 


igS  THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 

and  study  the  old  oak  carvings  and  the  rich  storied 
windows.  You  will  see  Milton  and  Bacon  in  marble. 

Then  perhaps  you  will  gain  admission  to  the 
University  Library.  If  you  happen  to  find  the 
librarian  (a  brother-in-law  of  our  good  Bishop  Ox- 
enden  of  Canada)  you  will  hap  upon  a  very  genial 
companion,  and  will  see  the  treasures  to  the  great- 
est advantage.  Hall  after  hall,  up-stairs  and  down, 
in  galleries,  and  in  cases  absolutely  cumbering  the 
floors,  yet  so  skilfully  arranged  that  you  can  see 
and  get  at  every  book  in  the  collection,  you  will 
count  if  you  can — I  asked  him  how  many.  "  Oh," 
he  said,  "  I  do  not  know  exactly.  We 

LIBRARY. 

are  always  adding.  Some  two  or 
three  hundred  thousand  !  "  Two  or  three  hundred 
thousand  books  !  When  shall  we  see  such  a  library 
at  Gambier? 

One  of  the  rooms,  containing  a  large  library 
quite  complete  in  itself,  was  given  by  George  I.  ; 
and  several  large  additions,  complete  in  themselves, 
on  special  topics,  have  been  presented  by  individu- 
als. In  this  library  (if  my  memory  serves)  stands 
the  statue  of  Byron  which  was  refused  by  West- 
minster Abbey.  The  statue  is  graceful  and  very 
beautiful,  executed  by  Thorwalsden  ;  but  as  the 
artist  never  had  seen  the  poet,  it  is  idealized.  His 


CAMBRIDGE  UNIVERSITY. 


I97 


figure  is  youthful,  seated  on  a  ruined  Grecian  col- 
umn ;  one  of  his  limbs  is  drawn  up,  but  the  awk- 
wardness of  position  is  redeemed  by  the  exten- 
sion of  the  other  limb  and  foot  below  the  pros- 
trate column.  Thus  you  look  on  the  full  length 
of  the  figure.  A  cloak  is  thrown  gracefully  around 
the  form,  giving  something  of  classical  effect.  Near 
the  statue  is  a  case,  containing  the  first  letter  ever 
written  by  the  boy.  It  is  more  pleasant  reading, 
and  more  profitable,  than  some  of  his  later  produc- 
tions as  a  matured  poet. 

In  one  of  the  halls  is  a  grand  statue  of  Macaulay. 
In  the  Senate  Hall  stands  Pitt.  You  will  of  course 
search  them  all  out  when  you  visit  Cambridge.  It 
is  not  necessary  to  exhort  you  to  see  King's  Col- 
lege Chapel.    It  is  the  gem  of  Cambridge.  The 


like  a  rich  network.  Only  two  other  specimens 
of  the  same  exist,  it  is  said.  One  we  saw  at  Peter- 
borough in  the  rear  of  the  choir.  The  other 
is  the  chief  ornament  of  Henry  VII. 's  chapel  at 
Westminster.  The  arch  between  each  spandrel  is 
so  flat,  that  is  to  say,  each  section  of  the  ceiling  be- 
tween the  supporting  arches  is  so  flat,  that  all 


CHAPEL. 


KING'S 


roof  ceiling  is  formed  by  such  an  in- 
terlacing of  radiating  lines,  springing 
from  separate  centres,  that  it  appears 


198 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


architects  have  found  in  it  a  puzzle,  as  to  the  mode 
of  construction  and  support.  The  college  once 
offered  a  large  prize  to  any  one  who  would  dis- 
cover the  key-stone.  Even  Christopher  Wren  de- 
clared that  he  could  not  venture  to  build  such  a 
ceiling,  and  that  he  could  not  find  the  key-stone 
unless  by  taking  down  a  portion  of  the  fabric. 


unified  under  late  Acts  of  Parliament.  The  results 
are  not  altogether  satisfactory  as  yet.  Some  fric- 
tion was  to  be  expected.  While  some  gains  will 
certainly  be  made,  they  will  be  set  off  most  surely 
by  irreparable  losses  to  the  religious  influence  of 
both  Universities,  and  to  the  hold  which  the 
Church  will  retain  upon  those  who  seek  for  higher 
education.  Time  alone  can  show  whether  evil  or 
good  will  preponderate  in  the  new  legislation. 


On  our  way  we  remained  overnight  at  Peterbor- 
ough ;  but  while  we  had  a  glimpse  of  the  majestic 
old  cathedral,  we  missed  seeing  the  Bishop — the 
eloquent  and  attractive  Prelate  who  represents 
Evangelical  interests  so  ably.    His  modest  palace 


UNIVERSITY 


SYSTEM. 


The  University  system,  and  the 
College  system,  both  at  Cam- 
bridge and  Oxford,  are  being 


Peterborough. 


CAMBRIDGE  UNIVERSITY.  IO/g 

is  close  to  the  cathedral ;   lies  beneath  its  very 
shadow.    The  cathedral  is  Norman, 


strong  and  rude,  but  verging  on  the 


NORMAN 

CATHEDRAL 

old  English,  which  introduced  the 

gothic  tracery.  The  roof  of  the  nave  is  flat.  But  as 
one  enters  the  choir  he  is  conscious  of  a  less  antique 
taste.  The  columns  are  lightened  by  smaller  col- 
umns carved  out  of  the  old  Norman,  forming  a 
group ;  the  plain  round  arch  becomes  slightly 
pointed  ;  and  the  ornamental  carving  begins  to  show 
an  approach  to  the  graceful  forms  of  the  true 
gothic.  The  music  at  the  Daily  Morning  Prayer 
was  especially  delightful.  The  boys  voices  were 
particularly  sweet.  And  the  aged  Canon  Pratt 
read  the  lessons  of  God's  Word  with  a  rich,  mellow 
voice  that  filled  all  the  choir  with  harmony.  It  was 
a  rare  treat. 


XXVIII. 


EDINBURGH,  AND  SCOTCH  EPISCOPACY. 

Edinburgh. 

It  is  thirty  years  this  month  since  we  first  shared 
the  hospitality  of  this  beautiful  city.  Detained  by 
illness,  for  five  months,  we  experienced  a  kindness 
and  brotherly  attention  which  have  ever  bound  us 
very  closely  to  Edinburgh,  and  the  Scotch.  Dean 
Ramsay,  the  gentle,  good,  witty,  kindly  rector  of 
St.  John's,  invited  me  to  his  pulpit,  and  so  intro- 
duced us  to  that  circle  of  which  he  was  the  ac- 
cepted centre.  Bishop  Terrett  then  filled  the 
Episcopal  seat.    Dr.  Simpson  was 

THIIi  T  Y 

adding  renown  to  an  already  famous 
YEARS  AGO.  "  J 

medical  staff,  and  making  Edin- 
burgh a  resort  for  invalids.  Hamilton,  the  intel- 
lectual Philosopher;  Forbes,  the  Naturalist,  the 
discoverer  of  glacial  motion  and  of  its  rate ;  Wil- 
son (Christopher  North,  of  "  Noctes  Ambrosianae  ") 
was  lecturing  on  Morals;  Aytoun,  the  graceful  Poet, 
was  reading  to  the  students  charming  studies  in 

Belles  Lettres :   all  these  in  the  University.  I 

(200) 


EDIXB  UK  Gil,  A  ND  SCO  TCH  EPISL  VP  A  CY.    20 1 


joined  their  classes.  Lord  Wood  and  Lord  Hope 
adorned  the  Bench.  In  society,  Miss  Sinclair,  the 
authoress,  was  shining  ;  and  Anderson,  although 
blind,  was  kindling  perpetual  sunshine  from  his 
own  mental  resources.  Ferguson,  a  dear,  good, 
earnest  soldier  of  the  Cross,  who  shortly  after  fell 
a  martyr  to  his  zeal  for  duty  and  his  se  f-sacrificing 
spirit,  was  my  most  intimate  friend  You  will  not 
wonder  that  we  desired  to  renew  our  recollection 
of  this  pleasant  city,  although  that  generation  had 
passed  away  with  which  we  were  specially  ac- 
quainted. All  whose  names  I  have  mentioned 
have  joined  "  the  innumerable  caravan,"  which  in 
continuous,  unbroken  line  of  march  connects  the 
shores  of  this  desert  land  with  the  happy  hills  of 
the  land  of  rest. 

We  were  most  kindly  received,  and  entertained, 
by  the  Rev.  Dr.  Sandford,  successor  to  Dean 
Ramsay  in  St.  John's.  And  I  preached  in  that 
pulpit  on  Sept.  29th.  By  a  s'ngular  coincidence, 
thirty  years  ago,  on  that  very  day  of  September, 
Sunday,  I  preached  for  the  venerable  Dean.  What 
changes  thirty  years  have  wrought ! 
9* 


202 


THE  CANTERB  UR  Y  P1L  GRIM  A  GE. 


THE  SCOTCH  EPISCOPAL  CHURCH. 

Especially  I  mark  a  wonderful  change  in  the 
position  of  the  Episcopal  Church  in  Scotland.  Not 
only  has  it  been  expressly  recognized  by  the 
Church  of  England  in  both  Conferences,  but  it  has 
become  a  power  only  less  marked  than  the  Presby- 
terian Establishment.  A  striking  evidence  is,  that 
whilst  the  division  of  the  Presbyterian  Church 
caused  by  the  Free  Church  schism  has  become 
widened  and  apparently  permanent,  the  separatists 
who  call  themselves  the  Church  of  England  in 
Scotland  have  become  fewer  and  feebler.  It  is  not 
far  to  find  the  reason.  Perhaps  it  may  be  instruct- 
ive. The  Church  in  Scotland  has  become  more 
tolerant  and  conservative.    Thirty  years  ago  two 

causes  led  to  the  separation,  and 
TOLERANT.  .    .  , 

carried   a   large  number  of  most 

earnest  Evangelical  Churchmen  into  a  movement, 
which  sheltered  itself  from  the  name  of  schism,  by 
using  the  shield  of  the  Church  of  England.  Those 
causes  were  the  exclusive  use  of  the  Scotch  office 
of  the  Lord's  Supper,  and  the  forbidding  of  prayer- 
meetings.  Now,  I  worship  in  the  leading  church 
in  Edinburgh,  where,  in  the  morning  we  commune, 
using  the  office  of  the  Church  of  England  ;  and  no 


EDINBURGH,  AND  SCOTCH  EPISCOPACY.  203 

other  is  known  there.  In  the  evening,  the  custom 
during  Advent  and  Lent  is  to  follow  the  sermon 
by  a  request  to  the  people  to  remain  for  a  prayer- 
meeting,  in  which  exhortation,  prayer,  and  personal 
conversation  with  those  who  desire  it,  is  the  usage. 
Thus,  both  the  causes  that  led  to  the  withdrawal 
of  members  have  passed  away,  at  least  in  Edin- 
burgh. The  schism  continues,  indeed,  but  with 
very  little  vigor;  and  members  are  frequently 
dropping  back  into  the  Church.  It  is  a  curious 
illustration  of  the  liberty  and  toleration  of  the 
Church,  that  this  very  custom  of  "  prayer-meeting  " 
is,  in  this  particular  Church,  preceded  by  a  choral 
service  grandly  rendered  by  a  strong  choir  in  sur- 
plices. An  additional  reason  for  the  new  and  strong 
position  of  the  Scotch  Episcopal  Church  is,  that  its 
members  no  longer  hold  themselves  aloof  from 
union  with  Christians  of  any  name,  in  any  good 
work  which  will  not  compromise  their  principles. 
Consequently,  a  feeling  of  Christian  brotherhood  is 
being  developed;  which,  as  always  in  the  end, 
works  to  dispelling  prejudice  against  the  Church, 
leads  to  inquiry  as  to  its  usages  and  acquaintance 
with  it,  and,  of  course,  to  its  healthy  growth. 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


THE  CATHEDRAL. 

What  was  deemed  an  idle  dream  thirty  years 
ago,  is  nearly  a  reality  to-day.  A  noble  cathedral 
is  so  far  completed  that  the  nave  will  be  opened  for 
worship  probably  within  this  next  month  ;  and  the 
transepts,  choir,  and  tower  will  be  completed  within 
two  years.  Two  Churchwomen  left  a  legacy  of 
^200,000— $1,000,000 — for  this  purpose  ;  and  under 
the  guidance  of  the  Bishop  (Cotterill)  the  plan  of 
Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  the  architect,  is  being  so  carried 
out,  that  although  he  is  dead,  his  genius  will  speak 
in  these  magnificent  lines  for  ages  to  come.  The 
building  has  been  pronounced  to  be  the  most  per- 
fect ecclesiastical  work  since  the  Reformation. 

It  is  in  the  ornamented  old  English  style,  which 
approaches  the  Gothic,  but  retains  some  of  the 
stronger  Norman  or  Saxon  features.  More  dis- 
tinctly than  in  any  church  which  I  am  acquainted 
with,  is  here  revealed  the  beautiful  idea  of  a  luxu- 
riant alley  and  grove  of  trees,  wealthy 
A  GIWVE     .  .      ,       ,  ' 

in  foliage,  by  some  miracle  of  art 

IN  STONE.  5  ' 

consolidated  into  stone.  As  you 
enter  through  a  doorway,  covered  with  rich  tracery, 
and  of  low  arch,  like  those  which  you  find  in  a 
wood,  you  lift  your  head  under  a  canopy  which  is 


EDINBURGH,  AND  SCOTCH  EPISCOPACY.  205 

supported  by  strong  single  columns  of  stone,  like 
huge  oak  or  elm  trunks.  They  have  sprung  up  to- 
ward heaven  a  hundred  feet  or  more.  The  stone 
trunks,  alternately  round  and  octagonal,  throw  out 
at  each  corner  of  their  foot  a  stone  root,  which 
seems  to  take  hold  of  the  heavy  base.  I  never  saw 
this  feature  elsewhere,  although  it  is  said  to  be 
found  among  the  most  ancient  structures.  As  you 
pass  to  the  left,  or  the  right,  these  stone  trees 
throw  out  graceful  branches  which  arch  over,  about 
fifty  feet  from  the  ground,  forming  aisles ;  and 
the  spreading  branches  seem  to  leave 

ALLEYS. 

spaces  for  the  light  to  come  through, 
which  are  indeed  the  windows ;  and  the  light  is 
colored  with  all  glorious  rays,  as  you  have  seen  it 
in  a  forest  when  the  sun  is  setting,  and  when  be- 
tween the  play  of  the  swaying  leaves  and  the 
radiant  mists  of  evening,  the  grove  seems  full  of 
rainbow  tints. 

But  in  the  central  alley  (the  nave)  the  stone 
trunks,  facing  each  other,  throw  off  no  branches, 
until  they  have  grown  together  to  a  hundred  feet. 
Then  from  both  sides  the  tree  tops  mingle  their 
arms  and  their  leaves,  until  the  whole  ecclesiastical 
grove  is  roofed  over  by  a  canopy  of  exquisite 
tracery,  and  from  side  openings  is  filled  full  of 


205 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


"storied  "  light.  The  idea  of  such  an  architectural 
design  is  too  beautiful  to  have  come  from  any  other 
mind  than  that  of  God  ;  and  therefore  I  conclude 
that  the  old  monkish  ecclesiastics,  who  were  rever- 
ent students  of  nature,  caught  it  from  God's  groves. 
In  this  cathedral  of  Edinburgh  you  will  realize  the 
truth  of  it.  From  the  centre  of  the  intersection 
of  transepts,  and  nave,  and  choir,  a  tower  is 
builded.  It  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height 
now  ;  and  from  this  base  a  spire  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  is  to  reach  up  far  into  the  sky. 

The  carving  in  this  church  is  something  wonder- 
ful.   The  Saviour  in  majesty  is  represented  on  one 

front.    The  Saviour  as  the  Shepherd, 
CARVING.  .  1 

on  another,     ihe  baviour  as  holding 

the  keys,  on  another.  It  reminded  me  of  the 
Armenian  Patriarch's  saying  in  Jerusalem — "The 
Lord  gave  the  keys  to  Peter,  but  St.  John  tells  us 
in  the  Revelation  that  he  could  not  trust  Peter  to 
keep  them,  and  so  continues  to  hold  them  Him- 
self." Over  the  north  transept  door,  in  a  cluster 
of  five  niches,  the  Bishop  has  placed  what  he  calls 
his  Episcopal  Lesson.  The  centre  figure  is  St. 
Paul  ;  on  his  right  and  left  are  St.  Luke  and  Silas ; 
and  on  their  right  and  left  the  Bishops  Timothy 
and  Titus.    The  fund  is  sufficient  to  complete  the 


EDINBURGH,  AND  SCOTCH  EPISCOPACY.  20J 

cathedral  in  every  detail,  and  to  leave  a  large  in- 
come for  its  support. 

When  shall  our  Church  in  Cleveland  be  able  to 
rejoice  before  God  for  such  a  church,  around  which 
the  Bishop  can  gather  his  missionary  forces,  and  in 
which  the  people  can  worship  every  day,  receiving 
the  Gospel  without  money  and  without  price? 
Lord  !  hasten  the  day  ! 


XXIX. 


THE  SHEFFIELD  CONGRESS. 

Sheffield,  Oct.  1-5,  1878. 

My  visit  to  England  has  been  prolonged  only 
that  I  might  have  an  opportunity  of  attending  this 
important  Church  assembly,  of  which  the  honor  of 
Vice-Presidency  had  been  tendered  to  the  Bishops 
from  the  United  States.  I  had  promised  to  take 
part  in  the  proceedings.  Bishops  Lee,  Stevens, 
Robertson,  and  Perry  were  also  present. 

We  were  guests  at  the  hospitable  home  of  Mr. 
Thomas  Firth  ;  a  lovely,  quiet  spot,  just  beyond  a 
spur  of  the  hills  outside  of  the  city,  which  shut  it 
both  from  the  noise  and  the  smoke  of  busy  Shef- 
field. Here,  amidst  fields  and  flowers,  with  views 
of  green  hills  and  dewy  meads,  enlivened  by  merry 
friends,  who  knew  much  of  Canada  and  the  States, 
Bishop  Robertson  and  we  found  the  intervals  be- 
tween the  sessions  of  the  Congress  pass  all  too 
quickly. 

The  Congress  has  now  become  an  institution  of 

the  English  Church.    This  is  the  eighteenth  annual 

(208) 


THE  SHEFFIELD  CONGRESS.  2Qg 

session.  It  is  presided  over  by  the  Archbishop  of 
York,  is  attended  by  some  twelve  or  fifteen  Bish- 
ops, and  by  a  vast  crowd  of  dignitaries  of  the 
Church,  and  by  working  clergymen  and  laymen. 

members.  The  sessions  are  crowded,  and  not 
only  replete  with  .  interest,  but  give 
opportunity  to  churchmen  and  churchwomen  to 
express  their  sentiments  from  the  benches  in  a 
boisterous  manner  unknown  to  us. 

Great  efforts  have  been  made  to  prevent  Evan- 
gelical men  from  attending  this  Congress- with 
what  success  you  may  judge  from  the  fact,  that  the 
Bishop  of  Ripon  preached  the  sermon,  and  Canon 
Ryle  has  been  a  prominent  speaker.  Indeed,  it  is 
evident  that  Evangelical  views  are  largely  in  the 
ascendant  among  the  audience.  But  special  care 
has  been  taken  that  each  party  in  the  Church  shall 
be  represented  by  a  well-known  advocate,  and  that 
each  shall  say  his  say  with  perfect  freedom. 

The  Bishop  of  Ripon's  sermon  was  a  clear  and 
forcible  presentation  of  the  Doctrine  of  the  Holy 
Spirit. 

ARCHBISHOP  ThC  ArchbishoP's  opening  address 
OF  York.      was  manly>  frank,  outspoken,  to  a 
degree  that  surprised  many,  when 
they  regarded  his  peculiar  position.    He  took  a 


2IO 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


stand  in  direct  antagonism  to  the  unruly  among 
the  Ritualists,  and  in  referring  to  the  Lambeth 
Conference,  adopted  and  applauded  to  the  letter 
its  decisions.  I  wish  you  could  have  heard  the 
applause  when  he  said  that  "  the  Ritualists  had 
made  an  attempt  to  draw  the  Church  of  England 
Romeward,  and  had  failed  ;  and  that  he  counselled 
them  now  to  abandon  the  struggle  and  accept  the 
defeat  ;  for  the  Church  of  England,  under  the  lead 
of  its  Bishops,  did  not  intend  ever  to  go  back  to 
Rome  or  allow  any  approach  to  it."  Such  a  roar 
of  cheers  !  stamping,  clapping  !  It  was  a  bedlam 
let  loose  ;  but  a  bedlam  that  had  a  mind  of  its  own. 
It  took  a  long  time  for  the  dust  to  settle  ;  but  you 
could  see  in  the  faces  of  men  and  women  that  the 
Archbishop  had  touched  the  key-note  of  their  reso- 
lution. 

Tuesday  evening's  debate  on 
SCIENCE  AND   _  .  ,    _,       .    .        ,.  , 

Science  and  Revelation  did  not 

RE  VELA  TION. 

reach  the  measure  of  need.  The 
papers  were  able,  but  the  debate  that  followed  was 
not  strong.  One  thing,  however,  was  observable  : 
all  readers  and  speakers  spoke  hopefully.  They 
agreed  that  the  present  contest  was  not  new,  but 
only*  revived  ;  and  the  attack  was  already  being 
weakened   by  differences   among   the  attacking 


THE  SHEFFIELD  CONGRESS. 


211 


party.  Nothing  had  yet  shaken  any  foundation 
of  faith. 


ness  waxed  hot.  Hon.  Mr.  Wood,  President  of 
the  Church  Union,  the  Ritualist  Society,  which 
defends  Mackonochie,  accepted  the  Archbishop's 
challenge.  He  recounted  all  the  wrongs  of  the 
Ritualists,  and  certainly  spoke  with  perfect  frank- 
ness. It  seemed  as  if  his  party  had  filled  the  hall, 
so  tremendous  was  their  applause. 

Rev.  Mr.  Davis  followed  in  a  temperate  and  able 
defence  of  Broad-Churchism  ;  in  the  course  of  which, 
however,  he  separated  himself  from  the  Ritualists, 
by  asserting  the  grave  distinction  between  doctrinal 
opinion,  which  is  the  expression  of  an  individual 
mind,  and  Ritual,  which  is  the  property  and  ex- 
pression of  the  Church.  Variations  in  the  former 
may  be  tolerated  ;  but  uniformity  in  the  second 
must  be  enforced. 

When  Canon  Ryle  came  forward,  the  audience  at 
once  showed  on  which  side  their  sympathies  lay. 
The  Ritualists'  "No!  No!"  was  lost  in  continu- 
ous applause.  He  spoke  without  reserve.  He 
read  the  extremes  of  errors  out  of  the  Church  ; 


COMPREHENSION. 


CHURCH 


On  Wednesday  morning,  dur- 
ing three  hours,  the  debate 
on    Church  Comprehensive- 


212 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


those  which  lead  to  Socinianism  on  one  side,  and 
to  Rome  on  the  other  ;  and  denounced  the  errors 
of  Broad-Churchism,  its  negations  of  great  saving 
truths  of  the  Gospel,  as  they  deserved.  And  then 
he  gave  a  list  of  the  great  and  good  representative 
men,  who,  being  on  all  sides  within  the  limits  of 
truths  as  proved  by  Scripture,  and  testified  to  by 
the  Creeds  and  Articles  and  Rubrics  of  the  Prayer- 
Book,  no  one  would  for  a  moment  think  of  wishing 
to  have  been  excluded  from  the  Church  of  En- 
gland. It  was  a  paper  so  moderate  and  true  that 
it  produced  a  great  effect. 

One  of  the  highest  churchmen  as  well  as  a  dis- 
tinguished dignitary,  said  to  me  afterward,  "  How- 
ever one  may  differ  in  some  things  from  Canon 
Ryle,  his  paper  I  like  best  of  all." 

The  debate  became  acrimonious  and  somewhat 
personal  toward  the  last,  and  was  continually  in- 
terrupted by  applause  and  counter  applause  from 
the  benches,  until  the  hall  assumed  an  aspect,  to 
say  the  least,  surprising  to  us,  and  by  no  means 
dignified.  Whether  such  a  discussion  tends  to  the 
progress  of  truth,  I  doubt.  Certainly  it  excites  ani- 
mosities which  do  not  leave  much  room  for  the 
approach  of  that  truth  which  is  indeed  first  pure, 
but  closely  after,  is  peaceable  and  gentle. 


THE  SHEFFIELD  CONGRESS.  213 

The  subject  of  Missions  in  general 
MISSIONS.  .  s 

was  discussed  on  Tuesday  afternoon. 

Bishop  Stevens  read  a  very  able  paper  on  the  topic. 

The  particular  branch  of  Missions  included  in 

the  term  Woman's  Work  was 

WOMAN'S  WORK. 

discussed  on  Thursday.  Bish- 
op Bedell  read  a  paper  on  it,  in  the  course  of  which 
he  laid  before  the  Congress  information  as  to  Wom- 
an's Work  contained  in  documents  furnished  at  his 
request  by  the  Secretary,  Miss  Emery,  by  the  Mas- 
sachusetts Branch,  by  the  Mexican  League,  and 
others,  and  by  Mrs.  Welsh  ;  all  the  documents 
being  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  President  of 
the  Congress. 

He  took  occasion  during  his  address  to  express 
the  feeling  current  in  America  toward  the  Queen, 
as  representing  so  truly  the  virtues  of  domestic  life. 
"God  had  chosen  women  as  His  special  instru- 
ments, at  great  crises  of  the  Church  history  of 
Britain— Eigen,  Bertha,  Elizabeth."  I  copy  from 
the  reporter's  notes : 

"  And  once  again,  in  this  age,  England  was  feel- 
ing the  influence  of  social  upheavings  in  France. 
Domestic   life,   the  very  bulwark   of  England's 
strength,  was  threatened.  Then 

THE  QUEEN. 

God  placed  upon  the  throne  a 


2 1 4  TH£  CANTERB  UR  Y  PIL  GRIM  A  GE. 

Christian  wife  and  mother,  a  model  for  the  world 
of  all  womanly  graces  and  domestic  virtues.  (Loud 
cheers).  And  thus  in  an  age  that  was  learning  to 
speak  lightly  of  the  sanctity  of  family  life,  not 
England  alone,  but  all  who  speak  the  English 
tongue,  received  from  her  Majesty  Victoria  and 
Albert  her  noble  Consort,  the  idea  of  home,  re- 
stored to  its  purity,  sanctified  by  religion,  and  il- 
luminated by  undying  love.    (Loud  cheers)  " 

He  continued:  "The  most  happy  results  of 
'  woman's  work  '  in  this  age  have  been  reached  with- 
out disturbing  the  ties  or  relationship  of  family 
life,  and  their  most  blessed  influence  has  arisen 
from  the  fact  that  women,  fresh  from  the  amenities 
of  home,  and  full  of  domestic  affection,  have  carried 
the  sympathies  and  awakened  the  memories  of  a 
home,  in  camp,  and  hospital,  and  school,  and  among 
navvies  and  mechanics,  and  in  the  hovels  of  the 
poor.  Noble  women,  fresh  from  the  sweetness  of 
home-life,  have  carried  with  them  its  fragrance  and 
moral  beauty  as  one  main  element  of  their  power;" 
(applause)  naming  Miss  Whateley,  of  Cairo  in 
Egypt,  Florence  Nightingale,  Miss  Marsh,  and 
coupling  with  them  Miss  Welsh  and  her  daughters 
at  Frankford  in  his  own  country.  "  Christian  women 
in  the  United  States  have  made  noble  use  of  this 


THE  SHEFFIELD  CONGRESS. 


215 


new  opportunity.  Among  other  names  of  Ameri- 
can Woman  Workers  the  Bishop  of  Ohio  mentioned 


honored  President  of  the  United  States.  (Ap- 
plause)." 


Friday  afternoon  was  devoted  to  the  considera- 
tion of  the  support  given  to  Revelation  by  late 
exploration  and  discovery.  When  I  say  that 
Canon  Ravvlison  and  Canon  Tristram  were  chief 
speakers,  you  may  imagine  the  treat  we  have  en- 
joyed. As  his  conclusion  from  readings  on  the 
monuments  and  remains  of  Egypt  and  Assyria, 
Rawlison,  the  highest  authority  in  the  world,  said, 
this  afternoon,  that  the  literal  historical  interpreta- 
tion of  Scripture  was  proved,  beyond  a  question,  to 
be  strictly  in  accord  with  all  the  historical  records 
of  both  Egypt  and  Assyria. 

A  new  point  of  interest  is,  that  late  cuneiform 
readings  show  that  Assyria  and  Babylon,  long  be- 
fore Moses,  held  the  seventh-day  Sabbath  to  be  of 
religious  obligation.  Canon  Tristram  also  showed 
from  the  Assyrian  tablets,  that  the  whole  story  of 


DENT'S  WIFE. 


THE  PRESI- 


two  out  of  a  host  who  had  labor- 
ed in  the  camp — Mrs.  Canfield 
and  Mrs.  Hayes,  the  wife  of  the 


EXPLORATION  AND  DISCOVERY. 


2 1 6  THE  CANTERD  UR  Y  PILGRIM  A  CE. 


creation,  the  fall  of  the  angels,  the  fall  of  man,  the 
deluge,  the  building  of  Babel,  and  the  dispersion, 
was  paralleled  in  those  ancient  Cushite  records. 
He  also  showed  that  the  Sabbath  was  observed 
before  the  families  of  Ham  and  Shem  separated. 
Subsequently,  he  proved  that  explorations  had 
affirmed  the  detailed  accuracy  of  the  geography  of 
the  Bible. 

I  had  an  opportunity  to  say  in  a  few  words  to  the 
Congress,  that  this  subject  had  attracted  great  at- 
tention in  the  United  States,  and  that  Canon  Raw- 
lison's  books  and  Canon  Tristram's  were  well  known 
among  us. 

workingmen's  meeting. 

It  was  an  extraordinary  sight !  No  words  could 
give  you  an  impression  of  the  effect  produced  on 
my  mind,  and  not  on  mine  only,  by  the  crowd  of 
men.  Albert  Hall  was  packed  half  an  hour  before 
the  appointed  hour.  The  overflow  was  led  to 
Cutlers'  Hall,  and  that  also  was  filled  in  ten  min- 
utes.   But  in  Albert  Hall  were  at 

THE  MASS. 

least  4,000  men.  Such  a  sea  of  up- 
turned faces,  and  from  the  side  galleries  and  the 
two  tiers  of  galleries  at  the  end,  such  a  cloud  of 
eager  faces  looking  down  toward  the  platform, 


THE  SHEFFIELD  CONGRESS.  2\J 

never  did  I  behold  !  Not  a  vacant  seat  nor  a  foot 
of  standing  room  could  be  found.  The  men  were 
w  onderfully  intelligent  in  appearance,  and  showed 
themselves  so  by  their  attention  and  by  their  dis- 
crimination as  to  the  points  made  by  the  speakers. 
Many  bore  marks  of  toil.  In  some  cases  dress 
showed  that  they  had  hurried  from  their  work- 
shops. I  saw  one  at  least  in  a  smock  frock.  The 
whole  audience,  however,  was  so  superior  to  what 
I  had  expected,  that  I  asked  a  workingman,  a 
skilled  hand,  whether  the  most  of  the  crowd  were 
workers?  He  answered,  yes.  I  suppose  that  almost 
all  were  actually  the  workers  in  the  industries  of 
Sheffield.  There  was  something  appalling  in  the 
sight  of  such  a  mass  of  muscle  and  brains  and 
souls ;  in  the  thought  that  so  much  power  was 
wielded  by  them  for  good  or  evil.  The  thought 
was  oppressive.  Every  speaker  felt  it.  Every  one 
alluded  to  it. 

You  may  ask,  what  brought  them  there  ?  It  was 
certainly  not  curiosity  alone  ;  nor  could  it  have 
been  a  simple  idea  of  receiving  instruction.  I 
infer,  from  remarks  made  to  me  by  three  or  four- 
workingmen  with  whom  I  conversed  to-day,  that 
at  least  one  moving  motive  was  admiration  and 
love  for  the  Archbishop,  and  the  speakers,  who 

IO 


2 1 8  THE  CA  N  TERB  CRY  PIL  GRIM  A  CE. 


were  the  Bishops  of  Manchester  and  Carlisle,  and 
Canon  Ryle.  For  example,  one  of  them  said  to- 
day, "  No  fear  for  the  Church  of  England  while 
such  men  as  the  Archbishop  and  the  Bishop  of 
Manchester  live."  The  applause  which  greeted 
each  of  the  four  named,  and  especially  the  first 
two,  was  something  tremendous. 

The  Archbishop  presided ;  by  his  side  was  the 
Mayor  of  Sheffield.  The  Archbishop's  address  was 
full  of  power,  tact,  sympathy,  and  love.  Every 
tone  exhibited  his  deep,  real  feeling.  The  men 
saw  it,  and  were  one  with  him.  His  theme  was, 
the  strength  of  self-sacrifice ;  the  power  of  self-de- 
nial.   During  the  course  of  it  he  showed 

YORK.  & 

them  that  .£150,000,000  each  year  were 

spent  in  drink,  but  that  the  whole  cost  of  the  Gov- 
ernment was  only  .£75,000,000.  Consequently,  that 
the  drinking  classes,  of  whom  the  working  class 
was  in  too  many  cases  to  be  counted,  had  it  in  their 
power  to  pay  all  their  taxes  twice  over  by  self-de- 
nial. He  made  an  admirable  point,  too,  in  showing 
that  strikes,  etc.,  were  opposed  to  the  laws  of  nat- 
ure, and  therefore  could  never  be  successful  in  the 
long  run.  "  Prices  fluctuate  with  trade.  Wages  go 
up  with  rise  of  prices  ;  go  down  with  a  fall  of  prices. 
But  workmen  say  no,  they  sha'n't  go  down.  You 


THE  SHEFFIELD  COXGRESS. 


219 


might  as  well  go  out  in  the  rain,  and  shake  your 
fist  at  the  heavens,  and  say,  I  will  not  be  rained  up- 
on. You  would  soon  be  a  drowned  rat  !  "  They 
saw  the  point — applause  was  hearty  and  earnest. 
His  closing  appeal  to  them  to  accept  the  offered 
love  of  Christ  in  the  Gospel  was  most  touching.  I 
was  deeply  impressed  by  a  sense  of  his  versatile 
ability,  and  of  his  strength  in  wielding  masses  of 
men. 


tention  and  sympathy  by  a  little  anecdote,  and  then 
gave  them  pieces  of  advice  which,  unless  you  had 
heard  him,  would  seem  the  merest  platitudes :  Be 
good  men.  Be  good  Englishmen.  Be  good  Church- 
men. But  his  illustrations  of  goodness  and  man- 
hood, of  national  character,  and  of  a  Churchman, 
were  so  happy  and  strong  that  they  at  once  ele- 
vated these  platitudes  into  maxims,  and  maxims 
which  became  great  principles  of  right  living. 


hour  at  the  other  meeting)  was  received  with  a 
perfect  storm  of  applause.  His  chief  purpose  was 
to  show  the  futility  of  modern  objections  to  Chris- 
tianity.   And  although  he  went  quite  deeply  into 


CARLISLE. 


The  Bishop  of  Carlisle  showed 
scarcely  less  skill.    He  won  their  at- 


MANCHESTER. 


The  Bishop  of  Manchester  (who 
returned  from  speaking  a  half 


220 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


the  subject,  he  carried  the  men  along  with  such 
marv  ellous  skill,  that  there  did  not  seem  to  be  a 
wandering  eye,  nor  do  I  believe  there  was  one  who 
could  not  comprehend  him.  He  made  a  keen 
thrust  at  the  late  deliverance  of  a  German  phi- 
losopher, who  is  not  able  to  believe  that  there  is  a 
God,  yet  can  content  himself  with  an  hypothesis  ! 
He  states  that  the  only  conceivable  hypothesis, 
and,  therefore,  the  true  solution,  is  that  man  orig- 
inated in  a  combination  of  chemical  elements  at  the 
bottom  of  the  sea.  After  playing  with  the  thought 
for  awhile  most  skilfully,  he  concluded,  "  If  I  must 
rely  on  an  hypothesis,  I  prefer  the  hypothesis  that 
there  is  a  God." 

The  men  saw  the  point,  and  assented  with  an 
expression  which  seemed  to  be  unanimous. 

Canon  Ryle,  who  also  had  been  speak- 
ing in  Cutlers'  Hall  for  an  hour,  closed 
with  a  most  vigorous  address,  showing  some  facts 
about  Christ  and  Christianity :  about  the  history 
of  Christian  ages,  and  the  moral  triumphs  of  Chris- 
tian truth,  which  no  sceptic  could  possibly  reject  or 
account  for,  on  any  other  hypothesis  than  that  the 
Bible  is  true. 

All  these  speakers  appealed  with  boldness  and 
directness  to  the  workingmen  for  their  support  of 


THE  SHEFFIELD  COXGRESS. 


221 


the  Church  of  England.  Not  the  least  earnest  was 
Canon  Ryle.  The  Archbishop  reaffirmed  the  fact 
that  the  Church  did  not  cost  any  workingman  one 
shilling.  It  is  not  supported  by  taxation  :  a  fact, 
by  the  way,  that  we  can  not  induce  the  press  in 
America  to  comprehend.  Other  Bishops  urged 
that  the  men  should  avail  themselves  of  their 
rights  and  privileges  in  the  parish  churches  and 
the  parish  clergy.  They  declared  that  there  is  not 
a  man  of  them,  nor  a  member  of  their  families,  who 
had  not  a  perfect  title  to  all  needed  services  from 
their  parish  ministers  without  fee  or  reward.  Where 
is  there  a  community  of  workingmen  in  America  to 
whom  that  can  be  said  ?  I  was  rejoiced  at  last  to 
hear  English  Churchmen  and  English  Bishops  take 
a  bold  stand  in  defence  of  their  Church.  It  is 
evident  enough  that  the  Church  is  in  no  danger,  if 
its  members  will  speak  out  and  use  their  rightful 
influence. 


ing  of  an  immense  steel  gun  :  "  The  Church  is 
stronger  than  a  good  many  people  think.  What 
it  wants  is  that  the  Church  shall  come  to  the  front, 
and  that  more  Bishops  like  our  Archbishop  and 


WORKIXGMEX'S 


CHURCH. 


A  workingman  said  to  me  to- 
day, as  he  stepped  down  from 
where  he  was  watching  the  plan- 


THE  CANTERBURY  PILGRIMAGE. 


the  Bishop  of  Manchester  shall  bring  out  the 
strength  of  the  workingmen."  The  words  of  that 
workingman  ought  to  be  inscribed  on  every  ban- 
ner, "  The  Church  to  the  front ! "  It  is  no  time 
for  timidity  nor  compromises.  It  is  a  struggle  for 
life,  a  struggle  which  is  imminent,  and  the  Church 
has  the  heart  of  the  people.  Oh,  if  you  could  have 
heard  from  that  mass  of  human  souls, 

"Praise  God,  from  whom  all  blessings  flow." 

sung  to  the  tune  of  Old  Hundred  !  As  the  sight 
was  never  to  be  forgotten,  so  the  song  of  praise 
must  ring  in  the  memory  of  all  who  listened  to 
it  forever ! 


XXX. 


FAREWELL! 

The  Deanery  of  York,  October  yih. 
THE  most  pleasant  pilgrimage  must  have  an  end. 
at  v,nzr    Singular  enough,  three  Bishops  who 

ft  I    Y 0 A  A . 

have  met  most  frequently  are  again 
thrown  together  here,  without  previous  intention. 
Bishops  Lee  and  Stevens  are  at  Bishopsthorpe  with 
the  Archbishop,  and  Bishop  Bedell  is  at  the  Dean- 
ery, under  the  shadows  of  the  beautiful  Cathedral 
of  York. 

On  the  Sunday  after  the  close  of  the  Congress, 
we  enjoyed  our  last  public  service  in  England,  and 
took  leave  of  brethren  and  friends  to  whom  our 
hearts  had  knitted. 

The  Bishop  of  Delaware  preached  in  the  parish 
church  nearest  to  the  Archiepiscopal  residence. 
The  Bishop  of  Ohio  preached  in  the  choir  of  the 
Cathedral  in  the  morning. 

The  Bishop  of  Pennsylvania  preached  in  its  nave 
at  night. 

(223) 


224 


THE  CANTERB  UR  V  PILGRIM  A  GE. 


And  on  Monday  morning  we  turned  toward  Liv- 
erpool, and,  better  still,  toward  Home. 


Steamer  Celtic,  October  igt/i. 
Our  homeward  voyage  has  been  an  entire  con- 
trast to  that  pleasant  outward  trip  which  my  first 
Paper  described.  The  telegram  sent  to  Liverpool 
by  the  New  York  Herald  conveyed  a  true  warning. 
It  told  us  that  an  unusually  severe  storm  had  left 

the  shores  of  America,  and  would  reach 
A T  SEA.  .      +  _  , 

Liverpool  on  the  8th  of  October.  It 

did  reach  there  on  that  night.  Before  we  arrived 
at  Queenstown  harbor,  it  was  crowded  with  vessels 
taking  shelter  from  wind  and  waves.  When  we 
left  the  harbor  at  six  o'clock  on  Wednesday  night, 
it  was  to  face  one  of  the  most  terrific  seas  which 
we  have  ever  encountered.  Out  of  one  storm  we 
passed  into  another,  finding  it  difficult  to  mark 
any  dividing  lines  between  them  ;  yet  the  captain 
thought  that  he  counted  four  gales  in  the  first  seven 
days  of  our  passage.  By  God's  mercy,  we  are  sight- 
ing the  lights  of  our  harbor,  as  the  twelfth  night  of 
the  voyage  is  closing  round  us. 


Cleveland,  Ohio,  November  \2ik. 
The  trip  has  been  a  very  busy  one.    Little  time 


FARE  WELL. 


225 


has  been  left  from  hard  work  and  exciting  cares. 

It  has  been  full  of  instruction,  and 
AT  HOME.  . 

equally  01  the  highest  of  enjoyment. 

With  devout  gratitude  to  God  for  His  mercies,  we 

mingle  grateful  thoughts  of  the  Christian  friends, 

whose  attentions  were  not  to  be  numbered,  and 

whose  fraternal  kindness  can  never  be  forgotten. 

It  was  a  rare  opportunity  to  share  the  friendships 

of  the  noblest  representatives  of  the  Church  of 

England  ;  an  opportunity  thoroughly  appreciated 

and  enjoyed. 

We  remember  with  special  grati- 
OUR  HOSTS.         ,  .    ,  .  r 

tude  the  unwearied  attentions  of 

the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury.  Some  of  us  were 
privileged  to  share  his  home  at  Lambeth  Palace  : 
and  what  is  a  still  more  pleasant  recollection,  to 
have  been  received  into  the  family  life,  as  if  we 
never  had  been  strangers,  but  always  brethren. 
The  Bishops  resident  in  London,  the  Archbishops 
of  Dublin  and  Armagh,  and  even  those  prelates 
whose  homes  were  at  a  distance — Winchester,  Ox- 
ford, Peterborough,  Bath  and  Wells,  Salisbury,  and 
many  more,  received  us  "  courteously,"  and  laded 
us  with  tokens  of  fraternal  kindness.  Clergy  and 
laity  in  the  city  were  constantly  hospitable.  Dean 

Stanley's  quaint  and  elegant  home  was  a  happy 
10* 


226 


THE  CA  N  TERR  UR  1 '  PI  I.  GRIM  A  GE. 


meeting-place,  where  one  was  sure  to  find  the  very 
men  one  wanted  most  to  see.  Lord  Selbourne, 
whom  some  of  us  know  better  as  Sir  Roundell 
Palmer,  and  Mr.  Beresford  Hope  and  others,  ad- 
mitted the  Bishops  to  Parliamentary  circles,  and 
acquaintance  with  men  who  are  leading  public 
opinion.  But  the  time  would  fail  to  tell  over 
names  that  are  now  household  words  amongst  us. 

Home  is  dearer  for  the  absence  ;  our  own  Church 
more  precious  for  the  contrast.  But  if  we  have 
been  taught  that  perfection  has  not  yet  been  found 
in  the  Church,  either  here  in  America  or  there  in 
England,  we  have  also  learned  by  what  methods  to 
improve  what  we  have  received  and  guarded  as 
from  our  fathers  ;  to  avoid  some  methods,  which  if 
transferred  to  our  side  of  the  Atlantic  would  be- 
come errors  ;  and  with  more  sedulous  care  to  set  in 
order  our  part  of  the  one  great  Kingdom  of  Christ, 
so  that  we  may  the  sooner  welcome  that  dear  Lord 
and  Saviour  whose  right  it  is  to  reign  in  every  land 
and  every  heart. 

Our  Pilgrimage  is  ended. 

Pleasant  friends  of  Englewold, 

God-be-w'-ye  ! 


EPILOGUE. 


NOW  preye  I  to  hem  alle  that  herken  this  litel 

tretise  or  reden    it,  that  if 
CHAUCER  AND  , 

THE  AUTHOR.  be  ^  thl"S  in  Jt  ^ 

TO  the  Hketh  hem,  that  thereof  they 

gentle  reader,  thanken  our  Lord  Jesu  Crist, 
of  whom  procedeth  all  witte 
and  goodenesse  ;  and  if  ther  be  any  thing  that  dis- 
pleseth  hem,  I  preye  hem  also  that  they  arrette  it 
to  the  defaute  of  myn  unkonning,  and  not  to  my 
wille,  that  wold  fayn  have  seyde  better  if  I  hadde 
had  konning  :  for  our  Boke  seyth,  all  that  is  writen 
is  writen  for  oure  doctrine,  and  that  is  myn  entente. 


(227) 


THE  BISHOPS  AT  LAMBETH. 


— from  every  shires  ende 
of  Englelond  to  Caunterbury  they  we/ide. 

The  Archbishops  of 

Canterbury,  Armagh, 
York,  DutLiN. 


The  Bishops  of 


London, 

Lichfield, 

Winchester, 

Sodor  and  Man, 

Llandaff, 

Meath, 

Ripon, 

Down, 

Norwich, 

KlLLALOE, 

Bangor, 

Limerick, 

Gloucester  and  Bristol, 

Derry, 

Chester, 

Cashel, 

St.  Albans, 

OSSORY, 

Hereford, 

Moray  (Primus), 

Peterborough, 

St.  Andrew's, 

Lincoln, 

Edinburgh, 

Salisbury, 

Aberdeen, 

Carlisle, 

Glasgow, 

Exeter, 

Brechin, 

Bath  and  Wells, 

Argyll, 

Oxford, 

Delaware, 

Manchester, 

New  York, 

Chichester, 

Ohio, 

St.  Asaph, 

Pennsylvania, 

Ely 

Western  New  York, 

St.  Davids, 

Nebraska, 

Truro, 

Pittsburgh, 

Rochester, 

Louisiana, 

(229) 


230 


THE  BISHOPS  A  T  LAMBETH. 


Missouri, 
Long  Island, 
Albany, 

Central  Pennsylvania, 

North  Carolina  (Assistant), 

New  Jersey, 

Wisconsin, 

Iowa, 

Colorado, 

Haiti. 

Shanghai, 

Montreal  (Metropolitan), 

Fredericton, 

Nova  Scotia, 

Ontario, 

Huron, 

Toronto, 

Niagara, 

Madras, 

Colombo, 

Bombay, 

Guiana, 

Antigua, 

Bakj»ados, 


Nassau, 

Sydney  (Me  ropolitan), 

Adelaide, 

North  Queensland, 

ChkiSTCHURCH  (Metropolitan), 

Dunedin, 

GlBRALT.i  t 

Capetown  (Metropolitan), 
St.  Helena, 
Maritzburgh, 
Bloemfontein, 
Pretoria, 

Rupertsland  (Metropolitan), 
British  Columbia, 
Saskatchewan, 
Falkland  Islands, 
Dover  (Suffragan), 
Guilford  (Suffragan), 
Nottingham  (Suffragan), 
Bishop  Perry, 
Bishop  McDougall, 
Bishop  Ryan, 
Bishop  Claughton. 


